Onibaka Posted March 25, 2014 Author Posted March 25, 2014 Hello! Can you please suggest what is the acceptable size (the maximum grinding layer) for the cylinder head? I hope you understood about what I speak
gstallons Posted March 26, 2014 Posted March 26, 2014 I assume you will do both cylinder heads. I would think .25 mm is the maximum you would want removed. You should do both heads the same amount. Remove only enough material to get a flat surface .
Onibaka Posted March 27, 2014 Author Posted March 27, 2014 I got it! And there is a complete list of TIGHTENING TORQUES? In Workshop manual it seems not all bolts are specified. For example Cap (12 02 26 00 - A6 page in parts catalog) in head. I hardly turned off it and with what we will strengthen to twist, I don't see.
AndyH Posted March 29, 2014 Posted March 29, 2014 Those manuals do tell you what you need to know, but not all of what you need to know! I'm not sure I entirely trust that list either. They might have simply forgotten to put the specific value for that part in the relevant text and the true value might be quite different from the value in that list.
jwh20 Posted April 28, 2014 Posted April 28, 2014 Amen ! His smile says it all ! Indeed and NO translation into English was needed!
docc Posted April 28, 2014 Posted April 28, 2014 Especially after seeing that crankshaft twisted in half on the November 30, 2013, post!
mznyc Posted May 1, 2014 Posted May 1, 2014 Cool.Congrats! Looks like you'll have to adjust fueling as idle is low,buts looks and sounds great,even with stock pipes.
Kiwi_Roy Posted May 1, 2014 Posted May 1, 2014 Especially after seeing that crankshaft twisted in half on the November 30, 2013, post! I think most guys would have given up at that point. What do you think may have caused it? Good to see those Joe Kenny head guards went to a good home
Onibaka Posted May 25, 2014 Author Posted May 25, 2014 Hi, everybody! It appeared that I broke the generator (after crankshaft breakage by a rotor beat about a stator) and it didn't give tension. Today I changed the generator. But the bike very weak charge of the accumulator. I changed the relay regulator, thought a problem in it, but it not helped. And all the time are heated fuss for accumulator and it's body melts (Replacement of a safety lock by MAX the version will help only?). In what there can be a problem?
Kiwi_Roy Posted May 26, 2014 Posted May 26, 2014 Onibaka, "And all the time are heated fuss for accumulator" Are you are saying the 30 Amp fuse (22) melting (the plastic is melting)? That is caused by loose clips holding the fuse, there is resistance in the contacts, this causes the fuse to get very hot and melt the plastic. This is a very common fault with the V11 Sport. Polish the fuse with some fine sandpaper and try to bend the clips to make them stronger Many people remove the fuse altogether or use a different type with large clips. For example this Guzzi has no charging fuse http://www.thisoldtractor.com/guzzi007/schematics/2000_Bassa.gif Someone please add a link to the "Maxi" fuse. Roy
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