New Owner V11 Sport Questions

[SCole]

Hello All,

 

New Owner with a 2000 V11 Sport with 2,600 miles.  Been sorting through the low miles issues like really old bad gas and sticking caliper and have a few questions:

 

Not sure Techron will clean the injectors.  Is there someone to send them to for cleaning or is this a DIY?  Idle is low and requires choke even a little when hot.

 

I want to remove the air box and go K&N.  Will the tappered ones fit behind the side cover?  Should I use the stock inlet tube to mount them to?  Anyone with a recommendation have the size to order?  And lastly with stock mufflers for now will the ECU keep up with these?

 

Lastly, got a sporatic tank suck issue.  The tip over valve looks to be just above the right injector body laying horizontal.  Is this the right position for this?  The one on the bike is black / white but I got another with a purchase of some parts and it is all dark grey.  Is this one a later upgrade?  The new one I got wants to be mounted vertically to flow air??

 

I know some of these answers are on the board but it seems I have a little twist on the ones I found.  Here is a pic of my bike trying out a fairing I got.  Not sure about using this?  I will soon start disassembly for many of the mods discussed on the board.  Just need to get another one of mine out of the work area....

 

Thanks in advance

 

 

[gstallons]

My take on things : www.lindertech.com  for injector service.They can flow-rate and recondition yours. The best in the business. You can use Techron , Sea-Foam & other good products for maintenance only

  I do NOT run K&N filters on anything. Good noise makers / bad for everything else.

 Purchase a PowerCommander from a seller/installer that can MAP your PC to your bike and region.  

My bike does not have the tank valve , so someone else can give advice on the subject.

[Kiwi_Roy]

First off, nice pair of classics you have listed there.

A friend here in BC has a couple of old Velos as well, also a Guzzi owner.

 

I have K&Ns on my V11, when I first put them on I noticed a flat spot at mid range so I reasoned that

the throttle body intake rubbers were acting as a velocity stack. When I extended the filter with the intake

rubber, sure enough the flat spot dissappeared. This would also get them back behind the side covers.

I chose to leave my covers off exposing the nice rear shock. There's a large cable loom wrapped around the

seat release key, that can be re-located under the tank where the airbox was. Then you just have to figure

out what to do with the breather and air temperature sensor from the airbox.

 

I don't recall it effected the fueling but I have an after market MyECU

Sorry I don't recall the part No but I remember thinking ones with a slight angle might have fitted better.

 

Roy

[jrt]

You can remove a rubber grommet from under the fuel cap- that will fix the tank suck.  That vents the tank properly.  That was probably the first modification I made when I got my V11 back in 2001.  Ah, the old days.

 

If you remove the air box, then fix the temp sensor to the spine with a zip tie.

 

While you have the tank off, perhaps get some insulated sleeve to put over the low pressure side of the gas line where it runs over the engine.  Sometimes it gets hot in there, and can cause vapor lock.  I'll look for insulated sleeve later, but I have to go teach class right now.

[SCole]

Thanks everyone.  I am going to do the power commander route later in the year and I do have a local guy with a dyno to get the map right on it.  Need tires(the originals are on it) and a few other things ahead of that though.  For Roy here are some pics of my Velo's and they don't run K&N's, they run nothing!  So, I wanted a bike with an electric start for quick go's but didn't want something you see all the time....how I ended up here.  Riden the bike a little and it fits the bill well and I am an air cooled kind of guy, by age unfortunately

[Kiwi_Roy]

The Velos are beautiful 

[docc]

Looks like you have a very early V11 Sport: the exhaust flanges are finned and the frame side plates ("pork chops") are faded. It would be good to know that the gearbox recall has been performed (?)

 

Welcome to the best owner-technical-community forum on the planet! Long term members can only testify that this forum is a crucial component of happy V11 ownership (along with a multi-meter, feeler gauge, and a place to recycle used fluids . . .

 

By and large (whatever-the-hell-that-actually-means), we disagree here in a most gentlemanly fashion. All the ways to skin a cat, if you will. I wholeheartedly agree with GStallons on Linder to care for your injectors. Yet, why don't you begin with a really thorough tune-up, run a few tanks of fuel (without the ethanol if you have that option) through it (a little Techron is good, sure) and I'll bet she perks up nicely from some miles and all the attention (she is Italian, no?)

 

It's rare to keep the side covers with pod filters since they bolt to the airbox. I use a K&N in the stock air box, but (agreeing with Gene again), it worries me. I clean and oil it once a year, but smarter people than I have cast aspersions on their filtering ability. Plus, I believe the engineering that went into the airbox volume is a benefit for the motor even though it doesn't "sound" as good.

 

Lots of members here have good things to say about the PCIII and other processing interfaces to affect the way your V11 runs. Disagreeing here in the most respectful way, my V11 runs well with a meticulous tune-up repeated every 4000-6000 miles. before adding anything, be certain you have the base line system running and all of the sensors and components are reliable (TPS, temp sensors). The link above to the Tune-up thread is just one of several ways to get a good base line tune-up on your V11.

 

With so few miles and so many years, just a little running-in, while systematically changing all the fluids and fettling the charging system, will give you some wonderful results!

 

You're gonna love this bike! A "modern" Velocette! (If you consider electric starters "modern!") 

[SCole]

Thanks Docc,

 

Yes the fuel I am using is non ethanol as I keep it around for my race car.  The gearbox recall was done at Marsh along with a shift spring and better grounding to the ECU.  This is the last bike that Al at Marsh sold and now the building is going away to a new owner too.  He sold the bike new and it ended up back at his shop through 3 owners with nobody ever really riding it.  So one mechanic its whole life basically.  It's bone stock with fresh fluids now so I agree that I will let her run for a while before messing with the injectors or too much.  Got to fix the tip over valve(tank suck) so the tank is coming off, just siphoned out most of the fuel so while I am there the air filters should be changed if I am going to do it.  I probably will leave the side covers off as I do like that look but would like to keep the option.

 

The forum is a wealth of info just like the Velo forum I follow.  Very much appreciated!  Thanks

[docc]

So, while the tank is off: change the fuel filter (Isuzu Trooper from a quality mfg like WIX may require a little longer fuel line from the pump). As JRT mentioned, route the fuel line from the petcock away from the heat of the cylinder. The electric petcocks can be flinky. Consider a conversion to a manual unit while you have the tank off.

 

Look at your routing options for the two tank vents (vent and overflow) - many have routed them together with no valve. Fuel may spill and lawyers will squall at this method.

 

Service (clean, lubricate and tighten) all your connectors, especially the two "bullet" clutch switch connectors on the left side of the frame, forward. Good time to ground the regulator.

 

Inspect the heat shielding under the tank. It may require some proper adhesive to re-affix. Remove the tank with only the minimum amount of fuel and keep it off for the minimum time. They are prone to deforming. Consider shimming the rear of the tank off of the side panels if you put them back on. Observe the imprint of the seat pan on the battery. If in contact, consider dropping the battery basket to keep the seat off the battery.

 

When we say "fresh fluids", we mean: motor oil, gearbox oil, rear drive oil, brake fluid front and rear, clutch fluid, fork oils, shaft drive grease, speedometer cable lube, and various bearings (wheels, rear drive, swingarm, headset). See the Maintenance Checklist while the rear wheel is off.

 

Sorry, lots of stuff here, but it looked like your original post had lots of questions.

 

Keep it all in good order:   repeat!

[SCole]

Great check list.  This is like reading the forum for an entire night...or more.  Thanks!!

[emry]

If you run a few tanks of E10 through it, the ethanol will actually do a really good job of cleaning out the injectors, and everything else it touches.

[SCole]

Okay guys, got a couple more.  Which way is the ECU suppose to install....fins up or fins down?  Mine came fins down but I have seen them both ways and read that the plug up can get the plug shorted out by the seat compressing against it?  And the fork tubes are hitting the tank on both sides.  So is this a stretched tank?

 

I gotta quit looking so much........

 

Thanks

[emry]

Fins up. Yes to the expanded tank. I had to relocate the rear mount on mine because of it.

[SCole]

Emry,

 

Can I get some pics and instruction on how you moved your tank back?

 

Thanks

[mznyc]

Be careful removing/installing ECU, because the battery leads will short if you touch them.ALWAYS have the Neg of the battery disconnected when working on the ECU.I disconnect both leads before touching it.