MartyNZ Posted April 21, 2017 Posted April 21, 2017 All it took was a new computer. I gave up on the old Mac Book and was able to find an almost new Windows 10 laptop. PS I have a new enemy though. He's called Windows 10. What a POS! So both Apple and Microsoft are a problem? Some days I think the same. Computers are one of the few consumer products that we expect to have trouble with.SUCCESS AT LAST!! ... wrote the Rosso Mandello map in to the ECU ... Big time thanks to ... members who pitched in ...Good news. Now your bike is back to the ECU configuration it was delivered with in 2004. It's ok, but it can be awesome with a better .BIN map. Rather than loading the Ti map, (though it would be interesting to hear your views on it), you could ask Meinolf for something more developed.BTW, that Rosso Mandello map was copied from Cash1000's bike, so credit goes to him. However I forgot to ask him if it was ok to share. So yeah, Nigel, sorry, I hope you don't mind. 1
Jazzamoto Posted April 21, 2017 Posted April 21, 2017 So..... now how does the CO come up? Docc, Guzzidiag had read it as 50 using the Windows version and the Mac version read it as, +50, +113 and -200 something. I reset it to zero. Took an 80 mile ride today, mostly canyons and some freeway and the bike runs very nicely with just slight surging at 3500 RPM. BTW, my valves are set at 4 and 6 thou rather than 6 and 8. Next service I'll open them up. John PS, I'll get used to Windows 10 I guess. It'll be a long process of deleting all those "helpful tools" that are built in. Already downloaded Firefox and thinking about Classic Shell as well. 1
swooshdave Posted April 28, 2017 Posted April 28, 2017 As I mentioned my TPS thread (this is probably a better place for it) is that it won't let me set the CO Trim. I'm following all of the instructions but when it goes to finish and I bring Guzzidiag back up it at the old numbers (33). I saw somewhere that if you have an error code you can't reset the CO Trim until you clear the code. Anyone else have this problem?
swooshdave Posted April 28, 2017 Posted April 28, 2017 I haven't looked yet to see if there is an error code. It's cold enough here that it takes a while to warm up the bike...
Chuck Posted April 28, 2017 Posted April 28, 2017 Just plug it in and check.. the only time it has to be hot is when you look at CO.
docc Posted April 30, 2017 Posted April 30, 2017 Just plug it in and check.. the only time it has to be hot is when you look at CO. Well, you can see the CO Fuel Trim existing setting when cold, but cannot change it until the motor is at operating temperature. 1
swooshdave Posted April 30, 2017 Posted April 30, 2017 Just plug it in and check.. the only time it has to be hot is when you look at CO.Well, you can see the CO Fuel Trim existing setting when cold, but cannot change it until the motor is at operating temperature. Correct. It's like you've done this before! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Chuck Posted April 30, 2017 Posted April 30, 2017 Well, duh. Some times I don't type what I'm thinking.. the only time it has to be hot is when you *change* the CO, like Docc said. 2
Gritman Posted May 22, 2017 Posted May 22, 2017 Hi Chaps, I have been following this thread for a while now, preparing to get to grips with this EFI malarkey. Some of you may recall my project... briefly, a V11 rolling chassis with a V10 motor, retaining the iaw15m rather than the iaw16m fitted to Centauros and Daytonas. Of course, this resulted in imperfect fuelling, particularly at smaller throttle openings, probably not helped by the ecu coming from a Quota - according to a faded paper sticker...... So anywaysup, software downloaded, cables acquired, laptop sparked up. For the purposes of this remapping, my bike masquerades as an MGS01 as it also runs the 15m and the pf09 tps - its kinda nice to get a little bit closer to that ideal! A couple of attempts saw successful connection with meaningful values returned for rpm, air and engine temp, co trim.... Warmed her up to 60+ and changed co trim from -26 to zero, as recommended by docc. I will take a ride tomorrow to see if I can tell the difference. Next on the task list is to take a copy of the base map for security before I bugger it all up personally. So, open Reader v0.67 to download and........... HELP! Here's a screen dump showing my problem; basically, the first drop down contains no entries and cloicking the read button brings up a file selection option from my laptop. So it seems, the reader in its current state can read files saved onto the laptop, but it is not clear how I can download the map on the ecu onto the laptop. I gather that once I have this bin file, I can send it to 'the team' who will convert it so that Tunerpro can read it and I can amend values. Am I missing something? Do I have to do anything to populate the first dropdown which I suspect will provide the missing functionality. I took the screen dump after switching the ignition off, which is why all the values are null....... Any help/advice greatly appreciated!
MartyNZ Posted May 26, 2017 Posted May 26, 2017 ...Next on the task list is to take a copy of the base map for security before I bugger it all up personally. So, open Reader v0.67 to download and........... HELP! Since GuzziDiag connects ok, that means that your computer has the right driver for the cable. You need to do the following steps in this order (applicable to IAW15XReader v0.67 on an old WinXP netbook, but may apply to newer computers). - Computer running, no programs open. - Bike ignition key off, kill switch in run position. - Connect the cable to the ECU and power it with 12v at the bike battery. - Plug USB to the computer. Give the computer a few seconds to recognize the connection. - Start IAW15XReader. Make sure a COM ident appears in the LH top field, if not fix this. - Click the "read" button and decide where to save the file. Give it a good name. It will create a file ending with .BIN. - You then get an instruction window. Press ok, then turn on ignition key. Listen to ensure that the pump doesn't run. Download will start. It takes about 15 minutes to download. Strangely it only takes only seconds to write a .BIN file to the ECU, and minutes to read/copy from the ECU. Keep this downloaded .BIN file somewhere safe. It is your reversion plan if things go badly. 1
Gritman Posted May 27, 2017 Posted May 27, 2017 Thanks Marty! I will give it a go as soon as I can get to the shed..... btw, zeroing the CO trim has noticeably improved urban use. Can't wait to get the fuelling fully sorted; its the last job on the project. ciao!
MartyNZ Posted May 27, 2017 Posted May 27, 2017 You can get an idea of how much you need to change your fuel map by playing with the fuel trim. I have seen +45 on one ECU. It is a crude adjustment as it adds fuel everywhere, but is quicker to play with than remapping. You should experiment with +5, +10, +15, etc until the guy behind you complains about stinky exhaust. The value of the trim is not included in the .BIN file, so if you increase injector duration in a map, then you will need to reduce the trim back to zero as you load the map. Of course fitting a wideband sensor and data logging is the only way you can find out what fuelling you really need at every condition. Then comes the interrelated ignition timing adjustment. Then you change something like a crossover or intake filter configuration. Then you start over...
Gritman Posted May 28, 2017 Posted May 28, 2017 So that is what the CO Trim is about..... I did wonder, but viewing it as a global enricher seems a pleasant concept. It does explain the improvement in my 2000rpm misfire (due to insufficient fuel). Thanks for the protocol on GuzziReader, which has behaved perfectly in downloading my base map. Just for fun, I uploaded the V11 titanium map and went out for a spin. These maps certainly work! My misfire has moved to 3-3500rpm and while urban use is quite docile, there is a distinct step in power delivery at 6000rpm . That map seems to favour WOT! Anywaysup, enough of the frivolity, I must now get down to developing my own map. I think if I get it as good as I can, then have a dyno run to get the AFR across the rev range to determine where adjustments are needed, that should be a reasonable way to proceed? I can now spend hours in the shed without getting grimy
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