Brake compensator valve

[68C]

An attack of basal joint (thumb) arthritis leads me to want to convert my '04 V11 to the linked braking system as fitted to the conti models.

 

I have a T3 and find it a very good system, now my T3 does not have a compensator valve as such, merely a simple manifold to direct the fluid equally to the LH front and rear disc and to mount the rear stop switch. 

 

I also have one of the valves from a California - don't know which model - which does appear to have moving parts apparantly to bias the fluid to the front disc.

 

Does anyone know more about this system, which version would you fit.

 

There are of course the additional problems of the master cylinders now being the wrong size.

 

Any advice. Master cyl. part numbers, donor bikes etc?

[Skeeve]

I also have one of the valves from a California - don't know which model - which does appear to have moving parts apparantly to bias the fluid to the front disc.

 

Actually, the parts are to bias fluid away from the front disc, or more correctly, a delay valve, so that you can apply the rear brake partially before the front starts kicking in: this is so you can still use the rear brake usefully to settle the bike w/o affecting the handling by having the front brake kick in when you don't want it to as you're leaned over in a turn.

 

Not decrying your decision, or deriding Guzzi's implementation of linked brakes [seeing as how they invented'em], but I'd look to a later Honda Goldwing for a better implementation, where the rear cylinder actuates the middle pucks of both the front discs along w/ the rear brake and the front cylinder does the outer two on both discs. I had on older Honda GL1200 where the rear cyl does the left front brake and the rear, and the lever did the rt. front brake, and you couldn't get max. braking out of it, since the hand lever didn't have enough control of the front and you'd skid the rear wheel before you could get anywhere close to the limit on the other front disc. Bleah! I longed to de-link the brakes on that bike, since w/ a lead sled like that you need to have max. braking when you want it ["I need full reverse warp NOW, Scottie!" "She'll no take the strain, Cap'n, there's a horde o' tribbles in the wiring for the antimatter converters!.."]

 

If you're talking about converting all your braking to the foot lever, then you'd better get a full ABS setup off one of the BMW models & see if you can retrofit that. Not that I'd recommend it, it's just the only way you can get adequate control of the brakes out of the foot lever to prevent a crash.

[68C]

Thanks for pointing out the valve actually biases to the rear and not the front wheel. 

 

The standard old Guzzi T3 system works well, you can brake hard at speed with the foot brake with bike feeling very settled even hands off, pulling on the hand lever markedly increasing the braking with plenty of feel. The system is particularly good in cold weather with heavy gloves.  As I understood it the size of the discs were chosen to give the correct amount of braking bias.  I appreciate a racer may prefer the convential setup when at the limit but I am on the heavily policed UK roads. 

 

I like the idea of ABS, great in my car, but perhaps a little ambitious to fit to a V11.

My intention is to convert to a system similar to your old Gold Wing ie., foot front and rear wheel with the hand lever adding more braking to the front.  Never having ridden a Gold Wing I can't comment on the rear wheel locking problem, never happened to me on the T3.

 

The only time the linked braking has given me trouble is on very slippery off-road descents where its nice to be able to lock the rear wheel.  The V11 is a little ungainly for that sort off work so hopefully won't be a problem.

[Orange Guzzi]

Proporsioning valves can be purchased that are adjustable for front/rear bias.  They are not very expensive.  A quick check or  ebay has them starting at $20.

 

I removed the valve attached to the swing arm on my California when I added the Magni swing arm.  I am going to add an adjustable proportioning valve to the bike when the weather breaks and I can do some riding.

[68C]

I think you are talking about the device that senses how much weight is on the rear wheel via a link rod from the swinging arm.  I will look into these aftermarket proportioning valves.  

 

For the moment I am going to keep things as simple as I can by simply running a single line from the hand master cylinder to the RH disc and run a second pipe from the rear master cylinder to the LH front disc.  Then depending on how it rides consider adding the proportioning valve.  

 

I am waiting for a replacement brake switch for the rear master cylinder that is long enough to accept two brake-pipe unions.

 

Others have told me to look out for very short rear pad life.

[fotoguzzi]

I might have the parts from an EV brake system that i would give you if you need more parts.

[68C]

That is very kind, I think I have all I need at present just waiting for the double banjo pressure switch now.  Thank you for thinking of me though.

[MArkS]

Dave Richardson has written extensively on this subject in Guzziology. Highly recommended reading regarding master/slave cyl ratios etc.

[68C]

Thanks MArkS,

 

I really must buy a copy of Guzziology.  Recent cold weather and refurbishing the bathroom have put the project on hold for a while, just long enough for me to loose the bits I collected no doubt.