Stubborn Needle Bearing

[Unkept]

So my wife is away for the day, and so I began work on the Guzzi rear drive needle bearing removal.

 

That was over an hour ago, and I've had no progress.  ;D

 

 

 

Drinking my italian espresso... I used my blind hole bearing remover for so long that even with gloves on, I began the wear some skin off from inside my thumb. The inner bearing cage is completely flattened inside the race, and it hasn't moved at all since I began. I used my heat gun on the drive to try and loosen it up, I've also used the socket+hammer to try and break any rust loose. No luck so far...

 

I've soaked it in pb blaster... I'll be back at it soon. Any other tips from the experienced needle bearing removers among us?

 

Thanks,

damaged thumb Joe

[luhbo]

Try the other side.

[Unkept]

Try the other side.

 

Well guys, looks like I made things worse!  ;-T

 

I thought.... well if I can get a long rod against the opposite side of the bearing removal tool... I can have a long leverage point to hammer on! 

 

 

It... kinda worked! 

 

 

So it shattered the bearing into pieces. Now I have no "lip" or surface I can attach the bearing removal tool to. There is still the outside race rusted into the drive... how will I get this new bearing in there?!

 

 

I'm thinking I will have to cut/dremel the outer race? 

 

Thanks guys... I hope I'm providing a good laugh for somebody. 

[stefano]

  if you have a welder or a friend with one, try running a small stripe of weld on the inner race, when it cools it'll shrink & come right out..

[Mad Farquhar]

 

Thanks guys... I hope I'm providing a good laugh for somebody. 

Not really  - was in that position almost exactly a year ago. It will come out. Mine came out whole but somewhat distorted :-), but as Lubho said I went for it from the other side. Pulled the bigger bearing out (also Allow you to check / change out seal!) and the coppery washery spacey thingie and then drifted from inside out. Considered dremel but didn't want to groove the bearing housing if I slipped - mind you it may provide an avenue for greasing!

By doing it this way you can give the plenum a really good clean up and realise why there was so much rust pissing out of the axle on rainy days.

[mznyc]

I had asked what this procedure involved a while ago as it can up time to time without pics,but no responses,so hope to learn something here from this when it's time for mine to be done.

I cant offer much help but I do wonder why you left the drive shaft attached.Seems like it would be easier to handle without it there and you could inspect/lube rear splines.Just a thought,...

[Unkept]

I had asked what this procedure involved a while ago as it can up time to time without pics,but no responses,so hope to learn something here from this when it's time for mine to be done.

I cant offer much help but I do wonder why you left the drive shaft attached.Seems like it would be easier to handle without it there and you could inspect/lube rear splines.Just a thought,...

 

I need to remove the rear half of the drive-shaft yes. I still can't figure out how to grease the damn thing correctly, so I wanted to grease the splines directly and put it back together. 

 

Also...

 

 

A propane torch was the answer. I heated around the bearing for kept using my bearing removal tool on the inner "lip" of the outer bearing.

 

I cleaned it up and...

 

Now to put it back together! Where does that spacer go again?  

[Mad Farquhar]

 

 

This was the state of my one! The actual bearing change out was relatively ok - once I learned where to beat the fcuk out of it. The new seal took a bit of burping - make sure you clean the seal face as well as you can as I am now a dab hand at stripping the bevel box down and rebuilding - about 35 mins from bike into lab and down off bench.

The rusty bit on the bevel gear "shaft" needs to be cleaned up really really well.

[mznyc]

Nice Joe Would be a good opportunity to re-paint the rear box,paint is shite on these.

[Unkept]

Nice Joe Would be a good opportunity to re-paint the rear box,paint is shite on these.

 

Thanks! I would, but the temp is too cold in my garage for paintin'... so I'll wait until it's warm agian. I'll also take that time to re-inspect my bearing and other rear drive bits.

 

It's all together now. Greased all splines and the axle/spindle. Also used a proper torque wrench, as I think the last guy to change the tire did not. The needle bearing failure and the damaged end (couldn't fit my 14mm socket in without some griding/reshaping) was probably due to over-torquing. 

 

120nm right?

[LowRyter]

45 lb ft ?

[luhbo]

Unkept,

where did you purchase the new bearing? Have you checked the length of the new inner race? While outer race and cage are standard parts, the inner race is not.

Hubert

[Chuck]

Nice Joe Would be a good opportunity to re-paint the rear box,paint is shite on these.

 

Thanks! I would, but the temp is too cold in my garage for paintin'... so I'll wait until it's warm agian. I'll also take that time to re-inspect my bearing and other rear drive bits.

 

It's all together now. Greased all splines and the axle/spindle. Also used a proper torque wrench, as I think the last guy to change the tire did not. The needle bearing failure and the damaged end (couldn't fit my 14mm socket in without some griding/reshaping) was probably due to over-torquing. 

 

120nm right?

Pete says, "until you fart."   I use 80 ft.lbs. 120 nm converts to 88, and is probably correct. It's not rocket science.. The damaged end was probably someone hitting it with a steel hammer, peening over the hex.

[Unkept]

Unkept,

where did you purchase the new bearing? Have you checked the length of the new inner race? While outer race and cage are standard parts, the inner race is not.

Hubert

 

I bought the bearing here.

 

The inner race was not damaged as far as I could tell. So I cleaned it up and re-used it. I hope this won't be a future issue? (You're scaring me! )

 

Nice Joe Would be a good opportunity to re-paint the rear box,paint is shite on these.

 

Thanks! I would, but the temp is too cold in my garage for paintin'... so I'll wait until it's warm agian. I'll also take that time to re-inspect my bearing and other rear drive bits.

 

It's all together now. Greased all splines and the axle/spindle. Also used a proper torque wrench, as I think the last guy to change the tire did not. The needle bearing failure and the damaged end (couldn't fit my 14mm socket in without some griding/reshaping) was probably due to over-torquing. 

 

120nm right?

Pete says, "until you fart."   I use 80 ft.lbs. 120 nm converts to 88, and is probably correct. It's not rocket science.. The damaged end was probably someone hitting it with a steel hammer, peening over the hex.

 

You're probably right. I bet somebody hit it with their hammer to slide the axle spindle back in... 

[LowRyter]

80?