V11 Sport/Won't Start

[piper1]

Hello...been awhile since I've been on this forum (good to be back - had two V11 Lemans and missed having a Guzzi) and now picked up a V11 Sport Rossa Mandello...

 

Couple of items about the bike;

 

Hasn't been run in about 7 years

When I purchased, supposedly a fuel injector was toast - otherwise, once the injector was replaced, should be "good to go"

 

Well, I replaced the injector, installed a new battery, cleaned her up, and tried to fire her up today -- no go.

 

Some observations;

 

• Battery Light came on and stayed on -- even when I took the key out of the ignition
• Did not hear the "gear sound" of the fuel injector/ecu when I turned on the ignition - knew I was dead in the water right away when I didn't hear that sound
• Lights came on, turn signals and horn worked and rear brake light
• One unknow cable was not installed/plugged into anything -- see photo -- did not/could not figure where it went and/or what is was for
• Only one wire coming off the gas tank -- plugged in the only wire (yellow male and female ends) other wire just remaining unplugged

Just sat dormant with no response...any help and/or suggestions would be great.

 

Thanks its good to be back...

 

 

 

 

 

[Tom M]

Welcome back Piper1!

 

I'm no electrical wiz but I'll take a shot at it.

 

That connector might be for the kickstand switch.  What color wires go into it?  My bike has a light red and a white wire coming from the wire harness to the KS switch, and two yellow wires going to the switch itself.

 

The battery light definitely shouldn't be on with the key out so my guess is you have a problem with the ignition switch.

 

The kill switch on the handlebar will prevent the fuel pump from priming.  You might want to give that a quick check with an ohm meter to make sure it's working.

 

I assume that you've checked the fuses.  Something else that you might want to consider is a full set of new relays from dpguzzi.com.  They're pretty cheap and help rule out a flaky relay.

 

Hopefully Roy or somebody else with better electrical system knowledge will weigh in soon...

[piper1]

Thanks for the quick reply Tom...I'm thinking along the same lines - one thing I forgot to mention was I removed one (1) of the black (positive) cables from the battery and grounded it to the frame in lieu of having both wires connected to the battery, one of the relays was clicking every time I pushed in the starter button...when I reconnected to the battery terminal again, no clicking sound was heard from the bank of relays...either way, I'll try all the above and keep my fingers crossed.

 

Thanks Tom. Hopefully I hear from Roy...

 

Sean

[fotoguzzi]

you grounded a positive lead? did any smoke get out?

Thanks  one thing I forgot to mention was I removed one (1) of the black (positive) cables from the battery and grounded it to the frame in lieu of having both wires connected to the battery,

[Kiwi_Roy]

I sent you a PM with my simple schematic, the sight wouldn't allow it to be posted here.
You need to figure out why the safety circuit is not picking up the ECU relays 4 & 5

It won't crank over right, are you holding the clutch in (switch on the lever)

Try with sidestand up / down.

Actually if you don't hear the pump power is not going to reach the start button

 

Fuse 4, Ignition switch, sidestand relay, kill switch, ECU relay Start button, clutch switch, start relay is the order

 

OK I figured out the link

http://i1304.photobucket.com/albums/s526/Kiwi_Roy/1986_009_zpsc1439df3.jpg

[piper1]

Thanks Roy -- I sincerely appreciate you sending over the schematic (going to sit down tonight and review) -- quick question -- did you see/note the photo I included on my first post above? Could that connector be for/complete the safety circuit? I'm not good on electrics...could not locate where that connector went -- it appeared to come off the main harness mounted to the spine of the frame. In the interim, I ordered all new relays from dpguzzi -- one of the relays had some corrosion (slight) on the outside of the plastic housing - figured I would replace all the relays...lastly, I had the kickstand down -- I'll try with it up? What did you think of the battery light staying on even after the key was out?

 

Thanks again Roy -- sincerely appreciate the help and am looking forward to your response.

 

Sean

[docc]

Looks like the previous owner installed a manual petcock and that is the connector for the original electric fuel petcock. No harm letting it be although I removed the fuse for that circuit for good measure. (Fuse 8/ 5 amp)

 

Be sure the loose connector won't hang down and foul the throttle or touch the head.

[Kiwi_Roy]

As Docc says it's the electric petcock connector
Actually that connector or it[s Fuse 8 is a good point to tell if the power is getting through the safety circuit, (the wiring to the left) It's powered up at the same time as the ECU relay R4

[piper1]

Thanks guys -- feeling a little better -- looked up what the manual petcock looked like, and yes, that's what I have - one worry down. Will let you know how I make out once I start going through the items you guys listed -- relays should be at my house Tuesday from dpguzzi.

 

Good day to all.

 

Sean

[Kiwi_Roy]

 The relays are pretty reliable but I found the base tends to build up some resistance after sitting for a while, it's enough just to pull and re-insert to get the connection back, it scrapes the pins a bit.

 

Check out this flow chart Docc posted just a different way of looking at it.

 

http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=16529

[piper1]

Guys,

 

Dug in a bit today on the electrics - tested all the relay(s) plug in points with a continuity tester...all five seemed to test ok. Then proceeded to replace all 5 relays, coupled with checking the starter button and all fuses. All seemed to check ok. Checked all fuses...they appeard to be fine with no noted broken wires/connections.

 

Couple of weird things...once I lifted the kickstand and pushed the starter button, the dashboard lights switched from the battery light to the oil light and back and forth every time I hit the starter button...

 

When I pulled the key out of the ignition, the battery light stayed on...would only shut off once I pulled the battery cables from the battery itself, otherwise would stay on indefinitely even without the key in the ignition.

 

Lights work, dash board works and all turn signals are working...no priming of the fuel pump occurring. No sound whatsoever coming from anywhere...

 

Any additional help/suggestions would be great.

 

Thanks.

 

Sean

[docc]

Sean, Can you check the battery voltage out of the bike with a digital volt meter?

 

I know you said its a new battery, but. . .

 

Also, time to pull the ignition switch and have a look at the contacts for anything unseemly.

[mznyc]

Roy,What would be the best way to bypass the normal circuit to the fuel pump to see if it's working properly? If that was possible maybe look at the ignition as maybe something is shorted in there.Also the sidestand would prevent the pump from turning on if the switch was bad or shorted.A way to bypass that?

[piper1]

Can do...was thinking/wondering the same about the battery - although battery tender and charger showing its fully charged. I'll pull the ignition switch on Friday...thanks Docc. I'll let you know, or hit you up for more advice.

[Kiwi_Roy]

Guys, Dug in a bit today on the electrics - tested all the relay(s) plug in points with a continuity tester...all five seemed to test ok. Then proceeded to replace all 5 relays, coupled with checking the starter button and all fuses. All seemed to check ok. Checked all fuses...they appeard to be fine with no noted broken wires/connections. Couple of weird things...once I lifted the kickstand and pushed the starter button, the dashboard lights switched from the battery light to the oil light and back and forth every time I hit the starter button... When I pulled the key out of the ignition, the battery light stayed on...would only shut off once I pulled the battery cables from the battery itself, otherwise would stay on indefinitely even without the key in the ignition. Lights work, dash board works and all turn signals are working...no priming of the fuel pump occurring. No sound whatsoever coming from anywhere... Any additional help/suggestions would be great. Thanks. Sean

I suspect you may have a bad ground, pull the seat release lock off, it's connected there.

It's normal for the battery light to turn off when you press the start button  because the headlight relay (where the regulator gets it's power from) is interlocked to the start relay.

This tells me that you have power through the safety circuit.

 

The oil light should be on with the key on but the oil pressure switches are notoriously un-reliable, you can check the lamp by shorting the switch wire to chassis.

 

Does the bike crank over when you press start?

             If not do you hear the relay click?

 

Does the fuel pump cycle for 2 seconds when you turn on the key?

            This let's you know the ECU is getting powered up.