V11 Sport/Won't Start

[Kiwi_Roy]

Roy,What would be the best way to bypass the normal circuit to the fuel pump to see if it's working properly? If that was possible maybe look at the ignition as maybe something is shorted in there.Also the sidestand would prevent the pump from turning on if the switch was bad or shorted.A way to bypass that?

If you look at the drawing I posted 4 from the top the ignition switch splits 2 ways Fuse 6&7 are alive with the switch on

A jumper wire between one of these and fuse 8 bypasses the sidestand etc. 

 

Remove relay 3 and wrap a small bare wire around the 2 large pins then re-insert it to do a quick get you home fix around the neutral side-stand circuit A wire stuffed into the relay socket works the same.

 

The single best thing I did to my bike was add LEDs to the relays so I can see what their staus is.

[piper1]

Roy,

 

The bike does NOT crank over...and yes I DO hear the relay clicking everytime I push the starter button...also hear the relay clicking when I lift the sidestand and/put back down...

 

No go on the fuel pump cycling for a couple of seconds...just hear the relay(s) clicking as mentioned above, coupled with the oil and battery light(s) rotating back and forth everytime I hit the starter button...

 

Going to give it another go tomorrow...

 

Thanks.

[piper1]

With reference to the ground wire located at the helmet lock...how do I check do se if that is completing the circuit? Could it be loose? Let me know your thoughts...

 

As always, thanks.

[Kiwi_Roy]

With reference to the ground wire located at the helmet lock...how do I check do se if that is completing the circuit? Could it be loose? Let me know your thoughts...

 

As always, thanks.

 

If you have a multimeter measure the voltage from the battery Negative post (not the lug attached to it, right on the lead post(scrape to show bare metal)) to the chassis as you press the start button, it should stay at zero. A significant voltage indicates a bad ground connection. (if you don't have a multimeter a 12V test light will be fine)

BTW the ground connects behind the seat release lock.

It's also possible you have a bad connection at the battery, scrape the terminals and apply some Vaseline.

I'm not sure exactly why the lights switch but I think it's related to ground problem.

I suspect when you press start the battery negative post is going from zero to a few Volts negative.

 

Also check the Voltage at the small wire connecting to the starter solenoid with and without it connected while you press start.

 

Make sure the bike is in Neutral then with the key Off jumper between the small solenoid terminal and the large one connected to the battery this will exercise the starter. (Best to connect a short wire with spade terminal to the solenoid then touch the other end on the large hot post) If it doesn't crank then do the same with the multimeter connected between the large hot terminal and chassis. 

 

 

It's very strange that the ECU doesn't fire up, check the battery polarity and ground on the ECU case,

 

Moto Guzzi - making Electricians out of riders for 90 years

[piper1]

Been a while since I last posted...thought I would post an update just to close the loop.

 

First off, Roy has been a tremendous help. Without his knowledge, and patience, I wouldn't have gotten to first base. Step by step, possible problems were eliminated, and little by little solved the puzzle, which ultimately led to a seized fuel pump - which I have replaced and got my bike running...still one more piece of the puzzle remains, didn't even realize, until I got the bike running, the throttle body linkage is missing - previous owner must have removed - and never re-installed. Have a used one on the way from Moto Guzzi Classics...hopefully, for the time being, that's all that remains.

 

Again, kudos to Roy for all the help.