Winter mice 1, indicators and tail light 0 ..?

[Gio]

So I think the same mice that sanded down my rear tire over the winter, may have been helping themselves to the wiring buffet ...

 

Bike starts, and I have everything except indicators, tail light and licence plate light. So with reference to Mr Carl's wiring diag (19 Nov 2010 version of the 1999 wiring) I have checked F6 and F7 - both are good, but with Ignition on (and fuses out) there is zero volts on the supply side (and ~ 0.2 v on the other) ... so am now trying to trace back and find the missing electrons.

 

If this rings anyone a bell, or if you have suggestions it would be much appreciated.

 

Gio

[GuzziMoto]

Check your relays. I am pretty sure their is a relay that  sends power to those items when you turn the key. Also, you may be missing other things and not have noticed yet.

[Gio]

I checked Roys test point schematic and both F6 (lights) and F& (indicators) seem to get their feed from the Ignition switch ... but no harm in swapping the relays around to see ... I'm pretty sure I have everything else ..?

[GuzziMoto]

There is also F4, that supplies power to the ignition switch. Did you confirm power at the fuses? It could be the switch itself, but I would expect you would be missing more. But there are two separate switch circuits in the ignition switch, one could be not working.

That or a broken wire....

[Gio]

I think I have found the problem. There is 12v @ F4 which then goes via the Ignition switch to feed F6/7 when switched - so I speculated a break somewhere between the other side of F4 and supply side of F6/7. Upon inspection there appears to be broken sleeve on the bundle of wires about an inch or so below the IGN switch and what looks like a broken wire inside (yellow/green?). See pic.

 

This is in a tricky place to access - will need to remove the tank, and possibly the IGN switch in order to verify / repair.

 

I think I read in another post of problems in this area - according to Carls diag there is a 4-way amp connector (#38 on his diag) which must be under the tank somewhere - perhaps there is insufficient length / bad routing between this connector and the IGN switch and the cable is then stressed as the bars are turned ..?

 

Gio

 

PS - How easy is it to remove the IGN switch ..?

[GuzziMoto]

The ignition switch is held in place with two bolts. But if they are the original bolts then they should be anti-theft bolts where the head snapped off during install. If you have a dremel it is easy enough to cut a slot in what is left and use a large screw driver to remove. I used an hand held impact driver with a flat blade tip to remove the original bolts. Replace them with some allen heads.

All this really requires pulling the top triple clamp off and flip it over.

The wire tail is not that long as I recall so the 4 way connector can't be too far.

[Gio]

Removed the tank and followed the cable back - indeed the 4-way was not too far back (~12 inches or so of cable) and I think there should be enough slack to allow better movement if re-routed slightly (it's a bit cramped in that area in my case as I run fuel lines to the filter which is housed behind the Magni fairing - part of my solution from the bad old vapour lock days - fuel pump now mounted on top of the spine) ... wishing the break was just a little further back from the Ignition switch in which case I might be able to repair in situ, but that's how it goes sometimes eh?

 

Cheers

 

Gio

[Kiwi_Roy]

While you have the switch off pull it apart and wipe the old grease out of the contacts, replace with some fresh

petroleum jelly aka Vaseline. Copper work hardens so try to arrange it so you get a gentle twisting rather than

bending all at one spot.

On my bike the switch block is held in place with a couple of allen head screws so I guess I have to thank

the previous owner for making it easy 

[Gio]

Thanks for the tip Roy ... I think I'm going to try and repair in situ (?) but if not enough room and the switch needs to come out (and probably will) - will take your advice re some fresh lube. I have some di-electric grease and am aware that this can cause un-desireable conduction if used too liberally - so is regular petroleum jelly a better way to go for such an application? 

[Chuck]

Thanks for the tip Roy ... I think I'm going to try and repair in situ (?) but if not enough room and the switch needs to come out (and probably will) - will take your advice re some fresh lube. I have some di-electric grease and am aware that this can cause un-desireable conduction if used too liberally - so is regular petroleum jelly a better way to go for such an application? 

That would be yes. Don't ask me how I know..

[Gio]

Thanks Chuck ... I suspected that was the correct answer!

[Gio]

Update

 

Still chasing this problem. Removed the ignition switch (via removal of the top triple clamp and two bolts through the dash) but discovered that - with respect to the AMP connector, there are differences between the 1999 schematic referenced above, and the actual wiring on my bike.

 

Schematic shows ignition switches I+J (pins 1+2) for the headlight (which works) and K+L (pins 3 and 4) for the missing F6/7 (indicators / taillight) - but in fact I+K (pins 1+3) switch the headlight and J+L (pins 2+4) the missing items. I confirmed this by jumping pins 2 and 4 on the AMP connector and saw the indicators working. (Jumping pins 1+3 activates headlight also)

 

I repaired the damaged yellow wire (L or pin 4) but still only get switching between pins 1+3, but not 2 and 4

 

So my problem would apear to be in the switch (or associated wiring tail). The black (plastic) part is held on by two cross-head screws, can be removed and (presumably) contains the moving electrical connectors. The upper (metal) mechanical part of the switch seems to be working normally (as evidenced by working headlight) ...

 

Question - how to I take apart the electrical portion to determine where the problem might be?

[Kiwi_Roy]

From memory you press in a couple of clips, It helps to have three hands. Holding the switch in a vice will help.

I don't like to use any solvents on the internals just wipe out the old grease, you will find it has gone quite hard.

Replace with fresh Vaseline.

 

The idea of having two switches one is for the parking light, really you could join the two outputs together if you can't get the other contact to make.

[Gio]

Thanks Roy - I'll try as suggested. As a back-up plan - I like your idea of combining the two switched circuits into one. My only concern would be then that the current for headlight plus taillight/indicators would be going through the same wires (at least for some distance - eg if combining was done at or just before the AMP connector) ... ie that this might over-load the already questionable routing of headlight supply via the IGN switch - perhaps this is the universe's way of telling me that I should do the headlight relay modification ..?

 

I'll open up the switch and report my findings - hopefully the wipe-out and vaseline refresh will get that second circuit to switch.

 

Gio

[Gio]

To add further clarification - when you guys suggest vaseline - is this with respect to the mechanical side of the switch or the electrical side, or both ..?

 

In my case, the mechanical side of the switch seems ok so am not planning on removing those security bolts, just the two cross heads that liberate the electrical side ...