Headlight Modulator Install - Kisan 150GW

[al_roethlisberger]

Well this post is related to our thread in the old forum complaining about the difficulty in getting to the headlight on the LeMans. And let me tell ya, I now thoroughly despise the design Guzzi has used!

 

 

First, let me update everyone on what is necessary just to change the headlight bulb on a V11 LeMans.

 

The headlight is a bucket-type, where the reflector, bulb, harness, etc... are enclosed in an outer plastic shell. To change a bulb, or otherwise access the lighting, the bucket must be disassembled and the reflector assembly removed. In the case of the LeMans, this is no minor task.

 

As Jaap mentioned in the old thread, it took him something on the order of 2-3 hours to carefully disassemble the fairing on at least one side, before he could access the set-screw on the bottom of the bucket and remove the reflector assembly from the front of the bucket. ...just to change the bulb. I had a similar experience, although I did not time it.

 

note: I am sure that with subsequent disassemblies it will take substantially less time once one is familiar with the process. But I sure wish it was like my old Yamaha, where I could change the bulb by just reaching up under the fairing.

 

 

Alas, although there are some theories that perhaps somehow one could get this done by simply removing the bottom access panel on the front/bottom of the fairing... I really don't see how this could be accomplished.

 

To open the bucket, one must remove a set-screw on the bottom of the bucket. By removing the bottom panel on the fairing, this is certainly accessible. However, at this point, the reflector assembly must be lifted upward to disengage a plastic hook in the top of the bucket before it will come out. Also, there is a rubber gasket surrounding the bucket and reflector "seam", which makes it hard to remove the reflector unless it is moved out of the way.

 

With both of these issues, there simply isn't any way to lift the reflector, and move the gasket, safely, with the rest of the fairing installed. And in reality, to be safe from accidentally damaging something, one really should remove one half, and the upper and lower panel surrounding the headlight. Otherwise, there is a high risk of damage to various pieces.

 

Jaap has some photos of his bike so disassembled for this very quest.

 

If someone else has had any luck doing so in a simpler fashion, I would love to hear about it. But I really can't see any other way.

 

SO..... that said.....

 

After one has figured out how to get into the headlight, you may want to take the time to upgrade your bulb if you are so inclined. I've installed a new "ION" white 55/100W unit, and it's quite bright. I've also changed out the white running-light to an amber bulb, and it's quite striking in my opinion. You may also want to reroute some of the stock wiring and lace it up out of the way from the factory, as they sometimes leave it in a mess. And as an aside, there is a small 'extension' wiring for the left blinker. The wiring from the blinker seems to reach just fine, so this is extraneous on my bike. So I removed it.

 

Now, to the point of this post.....

 

So, if you are interested in installing a headlight modulator(flasher), then here is the post for you.

 

First, give up on using any unit that attaches inline with the bulb/socket, even if a "low profile" unit. I tried two different models from Kisan(www.kisantech.com), and there simply isn't room in the bucket, both in regard to depth and diameter/shape of the plug. In fact, there is barely enough room for the factory harness.

 

After much rewiring, building new harnesses, etc... I settled on an external unit from Kisan. It is their 150GW model, which is made for Honda Goldwing applications:

 

http://www.kisantech.com/path150GW.htm

 

After calling the engineers at Kisan, they were very helpful in identifying which wires did what, and how to install it in our application.

 

So, here's the method:

 

There are 4 wires to the 150GW(later models may vary, I would check with the manufacturer or just use a meter):

 

White - Running Light

Brown - Low Beam

Green - Ground

Blue - High Beam

 

The green and blue wires are the only wires we are interested in. In fact, the white and brown wires are just wires passing through the unit, and can be pulled right out.... which I did.

 

To install the unit, one simply needs to splice into the high-beam wire of the bike's harness, which happens to be a 5 inch long harness with a flat 4-conductor "Amp" weather-tight connector on one end, with the other end connecting to the headlight bucket via a white square/block connector. It's easy to get to right behind the headlight, and in hindsight, with this method, there is no need to get into the headlight bucket nor disassemble anything.... *sigh*... that's what I get for being an "early adopter" I guess... *laugh*

 

So, within the bike's harness are 4 wires, ground, high-beam, running-light, and low-beam. On my bike, the brown wire in the harness was the high-beam. I would suggest using a meter on your connector to verify.

 

Once you have identified which wire is the high-beam, you can simply cut it and splice the headlight modulator via it's blue wires in-between.

 

note: If the version of the 150GW you purchase does not indicate on the package the "orientation" of the wiring, that is... which end the power "goes in" and "goes out"... on the standard 150GW, the end that has the photo-cell sensor connects to the wire going to the bulb. Other newer models have the "in" and "out" labelled, or you can inquire with Kisan. They are very helpful. You won't hurt anything hooking it up backwards, but it won't work, and the high-beam will not light. That will be your clue.

 

So, the only other wire you need to worry about is the green wire on the modulator. Being an electronic doo-hicky... it needs a ground to function. You can either choose to ground it cleanly to the chassis, or do what I did and splice it into the ground(black) wire in the headlight harness. Your choice.

 

You can now lash the little unit somewhere up in the fairing subframe out of the way, and out of sight. I also sealed the seams and wiring openings with marine sealant/adhesive that is designed to stay flexible and watertight, just in case. After all, it is electronic, and on a motorcycle.

 

Now, there's one last 'wire' to work with... the photo-sensor.

 

See, at least here in the USA, while these devices are legal, it is stipulated that they must have the ability to automatically defeat themselves when it is dark. So the unit comes with a remote photo-cell on then end of a 3 foot cord... a bit longish for our application. One also has to figure out where to mount it. Well I've solved both issues for ya

 

First, the wire, while looking very beefy, is just a shielded two-conductor wire. So, it is easily trimmed to a reasonable length and rebuilt. Also, since some older models of Kisan's modulators do not come with a detachable cord(the new ones do, which is important in a minute), cutting the cord gives one the opportuninty to install a two-conductor connector for easy connect/disconnect. For example, I used a 5mm DC-power male/female barrel-connector from Radio Shack.

 

Well, now you have to find a place to mount this, and none of us want to drill a hole in our nice finishes.... so fortunately Moto Guzzi has provided us with the perfect hole already in the fairing... the headlight adjustment hole ! Once you disconnect/cut the photo-sensor lead, you can thread the wire through the hole. And if you put a small o-ring, or plastic washer around the photo-sensor "bullet", it will fit nicely within the hole, look professional, and protect the finish.... while working like a charm. Then you just have to plug it into the modulator(if it came with the new detachable cord) or into your ready-made connector(be sure to choose a connector that will fit through the hole too!).

 

The only caveat here is that although the photo-cell lead comes with a snap-in collar to hold the photo-cell bullet, that won't fit in the headlight-adjustment hole. So, you'll have to come up some ingenious way to secure the bullet from behind the fairing. I used a nylon nut that I drilled and threaded(the bullet has some threads on it), but you might find a better way. I suppose one could "glue it in", but I wouldn't recommend that, as you'll surely want to get to the headlight adjustment one day.

 

 

So, after it's all said and done, you should have a fully functional headlight modulator, that is reliable, mostly invisible, and what does show looks professional.

 

Note: I also installed Kisan's SM-2 signalMinder product, and utilized their running-light and stop-light delay feature. I dipped it in a vinyl coating to give it all-weather protection, but other than that, it pretty much went in as advertised with no special tricks. I really like the running-lights, and signal-cancellation. I would recommend it highly.

 

 

al

[Guest Janusz]

Just imagine, if you had regular Sport or Scura you would spare yourself all this trouble!

 

Al, since I rode FJ1100 till 1992 I am curious what is your opinion on direct comparison with V11.

[al_roethlisberger]

...well, I'd still have put a modulator on it, and with the same bucket setup, at least on the LeMans, I have somewhere to hide the external unit!! On a Scura/Sport/Naked, I'd have nowhere to put it!!

 

... hey, didn't I have some post a while back asking if we needed "house jackets" for these non-faired fellas? ...just kidding!

 

 

Regarding the FJ... well, it's too early to tell I think. I'm going to take a long trip at the end of July, and I think that will "tell the tale". The FJ was definitely more "comfortable" and upright, but not by a whole lot. The position on the LeMans is much more like my friend's VFR(which can be seen in my Corbin pictures, as he keeps it in my garage). The riding position is more aggressive, but I rode the LeMans for about 4 hours a few weeks back and all was fine.

 

I am fairly impressed with the wind protection though. Although the fairing on the LeMans is lower, and I had a touring Targa screen on the FJ, the lack of buffeting and noise on the LeMans is very good for my 5'8" height. I've also put heated grips on the LeMans, and have the factory soft-bags coming, so I think it will make for a good touring mount.

 

But, overall, comfort seems good, and comparable, again with the only issue being more weight on the hands/wrists because of the slightly more aggressive ride.

 

I think I'll report more fully after some more miles rack up. But I can say that I am very satisfied so far with the comfort of the bike. It may not be as relaxed or "cush" as the FJ was, but it's not too far outside the comfort envelope it seems.

 

al