Kiwi_Roy Posted June 18, 2014 Posted June 18, 2014 One relay you can do without at a pinch is the sidestand one (Relay 3) but you would need to stuff a wire in the 30 to 87 socket. If you pull the Start or Headlight relays you loose charging unless of course yo jumper out the contacts 30 to 87A for the Start or 30 to 87 of the Headlight. The relay is a standard Auto part used by Jeep over here for sure, wandering around an Auto wrecker I have seen them in several NA cars. The only one that needs a 5 pin is Start, but use all 5 pin if you can get them. I added LEDs to all my relay bases, it was quite a task but here's a quick and dirty test relay you could knock up in a couple of minutes using a small 12 Volt lamp e.g. panel lamp, 12 Volt LED, or normal LED and resistor. Just swap it from slot to slot. This can be a permanent part of the bike,
docc Posted June 18, 2014 Posted June 18, 2014 With the middle relay out, the bike will start and run with the side stand up regardless of whether the gearbox is engaged. All the Run Switch power simply comes through the side stand switch and involves no relay. No jumper required.
lemppari Posted July 15, 2014 Author Posted July 15, 2014 Cleaning the relay base contacts seems to have done the trick. I'm just back from a 3 week 3500 km bike vacation without a single charge flicker or any other electrical gremlin. The starter turns somewhat slowly, so I still think the battery has to be replaced at the end of season. Riding two up+travel gear in the autobahn at 140-150, I noticed a high pitch vibration through footpegs on suspension rebound. That would indicate a worn drive shaft joint, wouldn't it. Well, after doing the clutch umphteen times over, changing the shaft is childs play. Only more expensive......
Kiwi_Roy Posted July 21, 2014 Posted July 21, 2014 Check the battery Voltage while it is cranking. Also make sure there is very little Voltage between the negative terminal and chasis while it is cranking.
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