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Posted

Sorry, the edit function doesn't seem to be working, i can't add a second picture

 

 

SimpleWiring_zpsb4c54183.jpg

Posted

Here I zoom in to explain what's working if the pump primes as it should

 

All that stuff to the left of the start button, the ECU the pumps primed and it's ready to start

 

If the pump is priming it proves the ECU is powered up, now if the bike is cranked over the sensor at the front LH side should cause the ECU to power up the coils and re-start the pump.

If the normal start circuit won't cause it t crank you by-pass the relay with a jumper  (highlighted in blue) or give it a bump start.

Your starter relay feed might be a little different from my V11 Sport, lots of guzzis power up the start relay via the ignition switch, see my next post.

ZoomIn_zps88ebe0cd.jpg

  • Like 1
Posted

This comment you made puzzles me

 "I have noticed the relays are extremely hot when this occures.  and when the bike does finally fire up, I get a click from the starter relay as if it has cooled down enough to start working.  Could it be the relays are getting to hot?"

 

I have never noticed hot relays, they normally consume just over a Watt, not enough to make them over warm.

Is the bike running ok before you shut down?

 

Failure to crank, commonly known on a different forum as "Startus Interuptus" is usually caused by a bad connection or dirty ignition switch, this prevents the starter solenoid from pulling enough current to pull in.

 

Determine if the start relay is through the switch.

Pull the start relay (the front most one on mine), connect your meter between the top contact (30) and the chassis.

Does point (30) turn On and Off with the switch?

 

Note: I revised this post and sent the owner a PM

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