lemppari Posted September 12, 2013 Author Posted September 12, 2013 This would have been also used to hoist the boilers of the Titanic to place.
Baldini Posted September 13, 2013 Posted September 13, 2013 Are them shelves on the right up to it - looks a little bit sketchy? That plank is going to want to turn... I went in from the other end - took the motor out, but I guess it's too late for that. Good luck! KB
Guzzi2Go Posted September 15, 2013 Posted September 15, 2013 This would have been also used to hoist the boilers of the Titanic to place. You are putting a lot of faith in IKEA. ;-)
lemppari Posted September 15, 2013 Author Posted September 15, 2013 IKEA worked just fine. I only raised the spine frame's rear end. No wonder the clutch didn't work:https://fbcdn-sphotos-a-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-prn1/p480x480/547239_10201864969374228_826143733_n.jpg https://fbcdn-sphotos-c-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-ash3/1236600_10201864951853790_665596534_n.jpg https://fbcdn-sphotos-g-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-ash3/1234513_10201865858956467_517224902_n.jpg Time to go shopping.
lemppari Posted September 18, 2013 Author Posted September 18, 2013 And the shopping turns out to be complicated. I ordered a complete clutch kit from S+D and the tool required for the center pinion. The guy on the phone insisted that the kit won't fit V11 and suggested I'd find the right parts from their model specific on-line parts cataloque. Now where did he think I got the kit number in the first place? Ok, ok, I know the center wheel IS different and would have thought it being something that could've been changed in the kit, but then he said that the tightening tool I also ordered won't fit. How is that possible when the center nut of both the 5-speed and 6-speed boxes have exactly the same spare part number and therefore should be able to be worked with the same tool? There simply has to be some mystical higher force opposing my clutch project! Not only has the dismantling been tiresome, but now even getting new parts is proving to be well-nigh impossible. By the way, Piaggio ended the contract of Guzzi's finnish import company which is now shut down so no way can I get parts neede from them, either..........
Baldini Posted September 24, 2013 Posted September 24, 2013 Can't get your links to work (get a little yellow explosion sign with a red exclamation mark) - what did you find had happened with the clutch? I can't recall the different centre nuts... S+D = Stein Dinse? For parts I've used Corsa Italiana, Motomecca (UK), Teo Lamers (Nl), Agostinis (I)& even Moto International (USA) - all good. Good luck.
mznyc Posted September 25, 2013 Posted September 25, 2013 I would try Peter at Reboot.I bought a complete clutch from a low mileage Griso from him for less than half of a new one.You will also need new friction plates,hub(input gear) locknut and washer and recommend pushrod o-ring.All the sources Baldini lists should have or be able to get them.TLM said Italy had hub in stock when I ordered and weeks later and multiple emails and urging by me they finally checked and said "Uh,it must have been a computer problem".Lesson is if they say its on backorder, keep looking as it could be months.
lemppari Posted October 2, 2013 Author Posted October 2, 2013 The center of the second friction plate was completely ripped off, so no wonder it was noisy and did not disengage properly. I've gotten the new parts from Stein+Dinse, so I can put the clutch together again. Meanwhile the project is expanding as they always tend to do. The gearbox has been perspiring a bit and as I have it on the table anyway, I tried to find a source for the small leak. Well, the backside was thinly smeared all over without any clear accumulation probably because of airflow while riding. When resting on sidestand after a ride, there was often a droplet under the bottom bolt and there was also a small amount of oil around the output shaft. So the wisest thing is to take out the back cover(s) and renew sealants and seals. Workshop manual, here I come!
gstallons Posted October 3, 2013 Posted October 3, 2013 After a good degreasing and cleaning , ride it for a few minutes . Stop the bike and dust the area with baby powder. The leak will show up !
lemppari Posted October 10, 2013 Author Posted October 10, 2013 At looooong last I got the proper center bolt to my DIY clutch press and alignment tool and assembly was easy enough, so it's re-sealing the tranny, changing the center pinion and whatever branch-offs that follow!
lemppari Posted October 25, 2013 Author Posted October 25, 2013 Opening the back cover of the gearbox I stumbled on a broken clutch pressure bearing and simultaniously saw one of the steel rolls disappear through the big ball bearing right inside the gearbox. Bugger! I'm now hoping I can find it through the side cover which gets a new sealant as a by-product even though it didn't leak. As if that wasn't enough, one of the gearshaft collar nuts was distingtly loose, having no lockplate under it.......
thumper Posted November 10, 2013 Posted November 10, 2013 So how's it going with the clutch job? Been following this thread and was wondering if it is up and running.
lemppari Posted April 27, 2014 Author Posted April 27, 2014 Finally got the bike together after doing the clutch twice!!! and was about to take a test ride. Clutch lever in, first gear in-BIG JOLT-KILL SWITCH! After a couple of further futile attempts, I just had to give up. The f.......ing clutch won't disengage, allthough pulling the lever quietenes the dry clutch racket. Should not be a clutch spring out of its' seating, because that was why I had to do the whole thing twice. Assembling the clutch in vertical position was a bit troublesome, but in the end I got the springs properly seated holding the pressure plate manually and looking thru the central hole and using a tool to move individual springs to place. There's a new gearbox input pinion, but I didn't change the pushrod which could have worked allright with the worn clutch plates but be a tad short with the new plates. Shouldn't try to be economical in such places..... The lever movement is shortish with a long slack first and the movement stops 8-10 mils before the handle, so it is worth checking the master cylinder first and then bleed the unit. Still does not explain why the clutch is so stiff compared to how it used to be, which I attributed to the new springs at first. It may well be that I have to to it all over again, only this time I'll just drop the engine. Far easier and far quicker than going in from the rear. If you ever do a clutch repair, do it that way. Saves your nerves, does it!!!
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