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Posted

The best way for A Real Man  to spend May Day is to take off the engine of a V11 and do the clutch again. Is there any way to test wether it disengages properly other than with the engine in its' proper place?

Posted

Rosso Mandello came with a single plate clutch, but yours is retro fitted with a twin plate clutch?

Are all your parts compatible? I had in issue w pushrod length fitting a RAM unit to Scura. It was all working good before all this?

 

Sounds like latest problem could be cos it wasn't centred properly on assembly.  I once warped an intermediate plate on a Tonti by getting it misaligned - I recall symptoms were similar to what you describe.

Posted

Mine has had the twin disc conversion done by the previous owner, so that saved me from doing that job. No problems with alignment, either. So, today it was engine off, clutch disassembled and put together again. No problem there, BUT.....

 

I pulled the clutch lever when the engine was off and it was stiff and there was absolutely no movement in the push rod! I had bled the system yesterday and while doing that the lever felt normal. How I am happy that the slave cylinder is so easily accessible in V11!  Well, a couple of bolts off and out shall the tranny come. Or it might just be feasible to wriggle off the slave cylinder in situ, although the trellis subframe between the pork chops is nicely put just in the way!

 

I am toying with the idea of converting to a V-twin with transverse crankshaft, clutch nicely visible on the side and chain drive!!

Posted

Hmm, transverse crank V-Twin with chain drive, do you think it will catch on?

Posted

Ducati, KTM big twins, Suzuki TL-1000 etc. just To name a few. Longitudal crank would be MG, Honda Pan European, CX 500 and so on.

 

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Posted

Back to original topic, stiff, mushroomy movement in clutch lever, no movement in clutch pushrod. What gives?

 

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Posted

I managed to loosen the slave cylinder from between the tranny and the trellis subframe and could test the pushrod system, all working fine. As far as I can deduct, it must be the master cylinder that's malfunctioning. Remaining problem is wether I'm capable of  doing the repair myself with a repair kit, or am I compelled to buy a new one.  PS12 units don't really grow in trees in Europe, so it might be quicker to get a repair kit, both Ducs and KTMs have them.

Posted

If you loosen the banjo bolt at the clutch maste rcylinder  , does the lever move any better ? This will test the clutch master / slave cylinder hose .

Posted

I happen to have an extra slave cyl, so I'll just as well change that too while I'm at it and it comes with a hose so that'll change as well.

Not much left to renew, though. New clutch, new clutch springs, new gearbox frontside pinion, new slave cylinder and hose and most probably a new master cylinder.

 

If it don't f.....ng deliver this time, I'll paint it light green and push it to the sea.

Posted

Slave cyl installed and while I'm waiting for the new master cyl, back in place goes the engine.

 

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Posted

All connected but couldn't pump the fluid in the system, so I'll go and buy a syringe and fill it via the bleeder. It would make a nice change if something went right as planned the first time......

 

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Posted

Yet another epic failure! Back to square one it is, dismantling everything. I may be on to the culprit, the new clutch friction discs from Stein-Dinse are substantially thicker than the originals. What if the center button is already so deep in, that there is not enough reach in the slave cyl piston......Well, When going gets tough, etc....STRÖMSÖ !

 

(At least, this really is living up to it's name, utter and complete mystery.)

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