HaydnR Posted May 16, 2014 Posted May 16, 2014 A friend recently changed from single to twin late clutch on his tenni and had to modify the centre cup for it to work. Did you change yours or the pushrod?
lemppari Posted May 16, 2014 Author Posted May 16, 2014 The bike had already had the conversion by previous owner and I've ridden it happily for years before the clutch broke down. This time, though, absolutely everything goes under serious scrutiny AND will be tested thoroughly before the bike is put together. I have another pushrod from a tranny the bike had before I had to change it due to excessive noise at 6th gear, so I can compare the lenghts. When you look at the bright side, I'm not having problems how to spend my leisure time! 1
lemppari Posted May 17, 2014 Author Posted May 17, 2014 Found the culprit! And the pushrod it is, after all. Worked fine with the wornout old discs but was too short with the new thicker plates. The one I had in reserve is 2-3 mm longer. When the movement of slave cyl piston is only 1,5 mm, one can see why the clutch didn't disengage. Sent from my RM-821_eu_finland_207 using Tapatalk
czakky Posted May 17, 2014 Posted May 17, 2014 You are probably the authority on v11 clutches by now. Good news! 2
lemppari Posted May 18, 2014 Author Posted May 18, 2014 Rear wheel, Mistrals, tank & saddle and I'm done. Oh, incidentally, the clutch works. Sent from my RM-821_eu_finland_207 using Tapatalk
docc Posted May 18, 2014 Posted May 18, 2014 SO, what was the final diagnosis on the clutch? Was it the master cyinder?
Baldini Posted May 19, 2014 Posted May 19, 2014 Do pay attention at the back there! ...it was the pushrod. see #48
mjseymo Posted June 3, 2014 Posted June 3, 2014 Hi All, I've been reading this thread with great interest and trepidation! The reason why? My 02 V11 Sport (23K) has started doing the same thing! Well, the bit about not fully disengaging when hot. It's fine when cold but no sense of clutch rattle when the lever is not pulled and it doesn't creep either (as yet). It happened after I did engine, filter and gearbox oil changes. I had measured out the exact amounts so new that I hadn't overfilled and then oil got past a seal onto the clutch plates. And if it had it should slip all the time? The bike doesn't get a whole lot of use. Could it be the pushrod not moving smoothly? How do I bleed the system. Where are things located? Sorry if these are some basic questions but I think people here should have the answer (!) Your help would be appreciated. Best Martin
gavo Posted June 3, 2014 Posted June 3, 2014 Congratulations, and top marks for perseverance I remember replacing the twin plate clutches on 2 ford pickups in the same week , one a six the other a V8 and for some reason friction plates faced the same way on one and opposite on the other pulled the gearbox out 3 times
Tom M Posted June 3, 2014 Posted June 3, 2014 Hello Martin, There's a thread here that might help you out with your clutch slipping problem here but for some reason I can't paste links anymore so I'll just have to suggest that you search the term "mineral spirits" to find the post from Greg Field on Jan 05 2009. Hope that helps, Tom
mznyc Posted June 3, 2014 Posted June 3, 2014 Found the culprit! And the pushrod it is, after all. Worked fine with the wornout old discs but was too short with the new thicker plates. The one I had in reserve is 2-3 mm longer. When the movement of slave cyl piston is only 1,5 mm, one can see why the clutch didn't disengage. Sent from my RM-821_eu_finland_207 using Tapatalk That's odd,as I replaced my single plate for a twin-plate setup from a Griso.Didn't have to change the pushrod.It came with the cup.Only things I provided was new friction plates,o-rings and seals and hub.
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