Throttle Body Synch Procedure

[bikelee]

SORRY ABOUT ALL THE CAPS BUT MY HEAD IS EXPLODING. I'M SIPPING A BEER TO CHILL OUT. Hello all ! I'm trying to do the Throttle Synch Procedure on my 2003 LeMans Rossa from the "TPS Setup and Throttle Balance Tuning" by dlaing and I am having a hell of a time and getting frustrated. YES I DID ADJUST THE VALVES FIRST.  The TPS reading is 180MV. Which way do i turn the TPS to REDUCE the voltage.  I can't loosen the TPS screws for the life of me. Why are they so f*cking tight and full of paint ?  I am using a Torx number 20 bit and it just wants to spin out and I am afraid it is gonna strip out. AM I USING THE RIGHT TYPE TOOL AND OR SIZE ?

 

 

IT SAYS TO  Disconnect the synchronization rod at the ball joint on the right side (the side with the TPS sensor),( I DID THIS).  back off the right throttle idle screw using a 2.5mm hex key, and back off the "choke" cam (make sure the choke cable permits full retraction of the cam (it didn't on my bike). I DID THIS BUT IN GUZZIOLOGY IT SAYS TO TAKE THE PLATE OUT TO MAKE SURE YOU GET FULL RETRACTION, BUT MY PLATE WILL NOT COME OUT. HOW IMPORTANT IS THIS ? IS THIS MESSING UP MT TPS READING ?

 

 

Turn on the ignition key, but do not start the bike. Measure the voltage difference between the two outer wires of the TPS. If the voltage is not 150 mV ±5 mV, then loosen the TPS clamp screws and gently rotate it as required. Be careful not to force it against the TPS’s internal stop in the direction of reducing the voltage, which could damage it. Plus or minus 5 mV can be obtained with a little effort.

To do the next step, you will need to connect a vacuum manometer (e.g. mercury stick) to each of the two ports on the intake fittings next to the cylinder head. These are normally connected together with a hose, which is to be temporarily disconnected. (I BOUGHT A NEW MANOMETER)

Next, close both air bypass screws, reconnect the synchronization rod, but keep the right throttle idle screw backed off to put the connecting rod in tension, removing any backlash. Start the engine and balance the throttle body vacuums at idle using the synchronization rod adjustment. Screw in the left throttle idle screw if the idle is too low to maintain. Do not use the choke for this purpose, because that would put the connecting rod in compression, introducing backlash, causing the throttle bodies to go out of balance.

Now adjust the left idle screw for a TPS reading of .521 volts. + - .005 (corresponding to 3.5 degrees physical opening, as read by the optional diagnostic software). This accuracy can be obtained with a little effort. (Some riders have been known to also subsequently physically readjust the TPS (not the idle screw) to lean or richen the entire throttle range. However, loosening its screws and offsetting the TPS to a higher voltage, e.g. .539, will fool the ECU into adding more fuel, but it will also fool the ignition timing table. See also the note at the bottom under “Options”)

Next open both air bypass screws to obtain the idle RPM at 1100 to 1200 while maintaining balance. Air bypass screws should be open 1/2 turn or more. If not, back off the idle screw to reduce the TPS voltage reading in steps of 15 mv and open the air bypass screws to compensate until they are opened 1/2 turn or more.

Check balance at 2000 - 3000 RPM as follows:
A When checking balance at 2000 - 3000 RPM, make any fine correction needed using the synchronization rod adjustment, then:
B. Check balance at idle RPM. If OK, go to step C, if not, rebalance at idle using the air bypass screws, and go back to step A.
C. Disconnect the voltmeter and manometers. Replace the hose connecting the two intakes.

That completes the procedure.

Once this procedure is completed successfully, future minor changes in idle speed can be made simply by adjusting the left throttle idle screw. Since the throttle bodies have been balanced, backlash between them has been eliminated, and air bypass screws have been properly adjusted to maintain balance at idle, these should be stable for many miles.

 

IF SOMEONE WANTS TO CALL ME OR PERMIT ME TO CALL THEM I REALLY NEED HELP. THANKS, LEON. 518 438 3015. I HOPE THIS ALL MAKES SOME SENSE.

[docc]

You sure that post was on just one beer?

 

(I'll give you a call, buddy . . .)

 

AHA! See! I knew there was more than one beer at play here: yours and mine . . .

[bikelee]

Hey docc. After 3 beers I got the paint off of ALL the screws we need to mess with. The right throttle body " choke" screw is loosened. I was FINALLY able to get the TPS screws loosened ( there was some corrosion on them ) and  was able to get the 150MV reading on the TPS !! I have the manometer ready to go. I made double sure there are NO leaks at any of the connections. dooc i really appreciate you helping me on this. It's giving me a lot of confidence that this task is gonna get done right. Please call me tomorrow if you can. You name the time. I'm really looking forward to working with you. Leon

[docc]

[docc]

Never tuned a V11 over the phone before - that was fun! Sounded like a P51 Mustang in the background! (Ferracci pipes will do that for a v11 don't ya know!)

 

Looking forward to the Thrill Ride tomorrow (weather permitting). It's all "fine tuning" from here, Leon!

[bikelee]

I am pumped ! I'm gonna use that star method to tighten the valve covers and try to hopefully stop the leaks. i guess we will see what happens. I'll post tomorrow.

[fotoguzzi]

glad your good to go.. I've heard of doubling up the VC gasket to stop leaking. don't tighten too much, it's easy to strip the threads.

[bikelee]

OK ! Docc. Sorry about the wait, but I finally took the Rossa out after the Throttle Body Synch and what a difference ! We banished the spit and hesitation at 3500-4000 RPM and I can roll on the throttle and now just smooth roll on power. I looked down to see if this was same bike I rode before the synch. Man what difference !

The leaking from the valve covers appear to be stopped also. I used the gaskets from the REAL Gasket Co. and they seem to have worked.

I also took your advice about the rear drive oil and about 10-20 cc came out. Not a huge amount but maybe enough to cause a leak down the road. 

There is one minus. The idle seems not want to be consistent. Sometimes it wants to be at 800 RPM and then 1200 RPM. I'm gonna check all the linkages and the throttle cable for stickiness or whatever.

When I first started it up from stone cold it would barely idle( after the synch) I opened the idle air screws but nothing changed so I  turned the idle screw on the left hand throttle body and raised it to 1200 but when the engine got warmed up It went to 1500 and then I lowered it to again to 1200. I'll see what happens the next time I ride it. The next time I ride it, it will be stone cold. If the idle is too low AFTER it warms up, what should I do ? Thanks !!   Leon

[docc]

Leon,  Good news all the way around!

 

Its fine now to use the idle speed adjustment screw on the left TB to adjust the idle and reset the air bleed screws for balance. Mine have always been happiest at a full turn out especially in high ambient temperatures.

 

Now . . . about that beer . . .

[luhbo]

 

... I opened the idle air screws but nothing changed so I  turned the idle screw on the left hand throttle body...

Once the bike is warmed up the bike should hardly tick over with the bypass screws closed. Close the screws (count how wide they were opended) and test it. If the bike still idles then turn out the left stop until the engine stops. Open the bypasses again and adjust the idle with these screws to something a little above 1000, or, as you cant't count on the counter here, to something what sounds comfortable. That's what I would do. I believe that it's important to have the flaps as closed as possible to achieve good overall results.

 

Hubert

[Kiwi_Roy]

I find with my V11 Sport at 80+k the idle inconsistency is caused by slop in the linkages, the RH throttle

doesn't come back to the same spot twice therefore as part of the procedure  I adjust both idle stops

so the screws are touching equally then trim the balance with the air bleeds.

This works better for me at any rate.

[bikelee]

I just want to thank everybody with helping me with this whole Throttle Synch episode. Bike is running great and idles fairly consistently now. It pulls nice and no stutter at 3500-4000 RPM. You guys are the best !! Hope to see ya on the road. Leon

[docc]

I got thinking about Hubert's (luhbo) post on setting the idle (he has that effect on people!)

 

It occurs to me that the throttle plates should still be in range or not very much over (4.66-5.24 mV). Leon, I suppose you could recheck that very easily. I recall we set yours at 5.25.

 

I suppose I'll back-probe my ECU and see where mine has ended up. Like Hubert, once I got my Sport running well, I try not to mess with it and just ride.

 

(30 minutes later after the back probing failed and probing the connector at the TPS: 448 mV. looks like the camel's nose is under the tent now )

[docc]

Another hour slaving over a hot V11:

 

The air bypass screws were not making the difference I expected and the left less than the right as I changed them observing idle speed. I remember cleaning them before and removed them for a look:

 

 

What one looks like clean:

 

I also sprayed some carb cleaner up into the throttle body through the bypass circuit until black gunk quit running out.

 

Better now!

YMMV!