Zooter Posted February 3, 2015 Posted February 3, 2015 Put in a query to Transdiesel site today and he got straight back. No pricing but said to go to local agent. So nobody has any objection to half a litre topup of GTX going in just for the week?
Zooter Posted February 3, 2015 Posted February 3, 2015 Interestingly Repco's search engine for motorcycle oil yields bike specific oils and light diesel high Zn premium stuff on special. Someone at Repco is a biker.
Zooter Posted February 3, 2015 Posted February 3, 2015 Found some Castrol GTX 15w40 Dino SM-CF rated in the shed. Under zinc'd but otherwise fine to top up from halfway between marks on dipstick? Need to go for a fang when this rain finally sods off. New filter, windage plate etc will be here in another week.Rain.. I wish, never seen it so brown here, 1st time the local cocky has ever ran out of water... Castrol GPS the semi syn is actually what I use, only just found the ENI in recent times at such a mean pricepray tell, what is 4L of ENI going for? I get the feeling I might have to pay full retail here.
dangerous Posted February 3, 2015 Posted February 3, 2015 pray tell, what is 4L of ENI going for? I get the feeling I might have to pay full retail here. ohh shit iirc bout 40 bucks and 7 for a liter of eni 80/90 and chuck ya GTX in proberly do a filter tho when you change next
Zooter Posted February 3, 2015 Posted February 3, 2015 That's cheap for gear oil. What about the 10w40?
docc Posted February 3, 2015 Posted February 3, 2015 You're fine with the 10-40 for a top-up. I ran some diesel rated 5-40 Mobil1 for quite some time and felt the light base oil might have contributed to some leaking. I say "might have." Then, for me, back to 20-50 motorcycle oil. (Ambient temps do get quite high here).
Gio Posted February 3, 2015 Posted February 3, 2015 Agreed - our clime can be a little cooler than yours docc, so have used mixture of 10/40 (which the old kawi used) to 20/50 Castrol (aka "15/45") depending.
sp838 Posted February 6, 2015 Posted February 6, 2015 Mike Rich recommends Maxima oil, fwiw. I know a lot of people here are looking for cheap solutions, but he was quite emphatic about the importance of using a high quality oil that can handle the high heat and oil starvation to the heads, even under optimal running conditions, that occurs with this engine. He did say that Amsoil is pretty decent.
Scud Posted February 6, 2015 Posted February 6, 2015 I'm all for buying quality oil, and motorcycle-specific, because it has the right sort of additives - even though I don't know or really care what they are. I'm sneaking up on doing my first oil change (second ever for my bike). I think I'm going to do them every 5,000 miles, which is a little shorter interval than recommended, but also makes it easy to remember that every time I see an even 5,000 mile increment on the odometer it's time for a change. My question is about organic vs synthetic oils. I've heard that it's good to run organic for a little while in a new motor to get everything settled in nicely - then switch to synthetic because it is a better lubricant, thus reducing further wear. Is this the right kind of thinking? Should I switch to synthetic at the next oil change (5,000 miles total) - or maybe go to 10,000 miles with organic?
Gio Posted February 6, 2015 Posted February 6, 2015 I think 5k miles is too long an interval. I change mine (regular dino) every 5000 km (3k miles) with filter change every other oil change (10,000 km). Gio
GuzziMoto Posted February 6, 2015 Posted February 6, 2015 I'm all for buying quality oil, and motorcycle-specific, because it has the right sort of additives - even though I don't know or really care what they are. I'm sneaking up on doing my first oil change (second ever for my bike). I think I'm going to do them every 5,000 miles, which is a little shorter interval than recommended, but also makes it easy to remember that every time I see an even 5,000 mile increment on the odometer it's time for a change. My question is about organic vs synthetic oils. I've heard that it's good to run organic for a little while in a new motor to get everything settled in nicely - then switch to synthetic because it is a better lubricant, thus reducing further wear. Is this the right kind of thinking? Should I switch to synthetic at the next oil change (5,000 miles total) - or maybe go to 10,000 miles with organic? Way back in the old days, when synthetic oils were fairly new, they used to say that. Synthetic oils have come a long way and there is no reason to do that anymore, other than the cost of the oil. As far as I know they come from Guzzi with synthetic oil in them from the factory. I would not put non-synthetic oil in there. Oil is very important to plain bearing motors.
Scud Posted February 6, 2015 Posted February 6, 2015 Way back in the old days, when synthetic oils were fairly new, they used to say that. Synthetic oils have come a long way and there is no reason to do that anymore, other than the cost of the oil. As far as I know they come from Guzzi with synthetic oil in them from the factory. I would not put non-synthetic oil in there. Oil is very important to plain bearing motors. I guess that makes me older than the dirt from which the oil is drawn. At least I still have my memory. I had the dealer do my break-in service and first oil change. I just assumed they used organic oil - but it's a good shop and I'm confident that they used whatever Guzzi recommends (or equivalent) - and so will I. The manual specifies Agip 4T Super Racing SAE 20W50 for the engine, which I just looked up - it is synthetic. The dealer recommended a Maxima product for the transmission and rear drive, which I purchased and used. I know there is a wide range of opinions on oil change intervals. It doesn't hurt to change oil more frequently, like Gio does. My manual says oil and filter every 6,000 miles (10,000km). I thought doing oil and filter every 5,000 miles would be conservative and easy to remember - did Guzzi get the interval wrong?
Rhino1 Posted February 7, 2015 Posted February 7, 2015 I'm all for buying quality oil, and motorcycle-specific, because it has the right sort of additives - even though I don't know or really care what they are. I'm sneaking up on doing my first oil change (second ever for my bike). I think I'm going to do them every 5,000 miles, which is a little shorter interval than recommended, but also makes it easy to remember that every time I see an even 5,000 mile increment on the odometer it's time for a change. My question is about organic vs synthetic oils. I've heard that it's good to run organic for a little while in a new motor to get everything settled in nicely - then switch to synthetic because it is a better lubricant, thus reducing further wear. Is this the right kind of thinking? Should I switch to synthetic at the next oil change (5,000 miles total) - or maybe go to 10,000 miles with organic? Way back in the old days, when synthetic oils were fairly new, they used to say that. Synthetic oils have come a long way and there is no reason to do that anymore, other than the cost of the oil. As far as I know they come from Guzzi with synthetic oil in them from the factory. I would not put non-synthetic oil in there. Oil is very important to plain bearing motors. As I understand it, it wasn't that the synthetic was lacking in some way, but rather, it it lubricated too well and did not allow rings to seat properly. I don't know if "break in oil" is still used by many manufacturers, but I suspect it was still very much in use when our Guzzi V1's were made.
Zooter Posted February 7, 2015 Posted February 7, 2015 Older V11 manual calls for 5w40 synthetic, Repco has just that under Ten bucks a litre in the current catalogue sale. Penrite Australian stuff.
docc Posted February 7, 2015 Posted February 7, 2015 Seems 5W-40 was spec'd for the later V11 (2003-) with oil sprayers under the pistons. No mention of anything less than 10w-30 in the early spec's. Looks like it would be good to 33˚C/91˚F; and 20w-40 or 50 from freezing up. And "SG" - good luck finding that amount of ZDDP. Above all- avoid "friction modifiers" or "energy conserving" oils for passenger cars. Your sweet little virgin cylinder walls will thank you!
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