V11 Le Mans (2005) Engine Oil

[Keith Foster]

My recollection is that I gleaned the concern for "energy conserving" friction modifiers adversely affecting the rings seating in the bores from generous posts made here by Pete Roper. I wouldn't want to misrepresent what he has said, but that is my recollection.

 

Keith, I wonder if you mean running your Valvoline 4K (4,000) miles not "40K" (40,000) miles ?

Typo on my part, I meant to convey I've run it for the last 40K or so miles.

[docc]

Keith, just curious then, how often do you change oil?

[rossi46]

e-mailed Opie oils here in the UK and was recommended

http://www.opieoils.co.uk/p-6585-motul-7100-4t-10w-60-high-performance-lubricant-for-bikes-100-synthetic-ester.aspx

[GuzziMoto]

That Motul oil is a common choice for the new CARC motors, especially the new 8 valve motors. They are actually spec'd to use a 10w60. As far as I know the V11 never was, but I could be wrong. I know my wifes '01 was not spec'd to use a 10w60. Perhaps later they changed their minds. Anyway, that oil is not overly high in its zinc/zddp levels. I did not see the actual values in their "tech data" sheet, it merely said "Low Phosphorus and Sulphur content for better operating conditions of catalytic converters required to meet last emission regulation" and it was SL rated which has a lower max level then say SG rated. If you see an oil that meets multiple ratings the reality is the newer rating is really the one that matters as for the most part the levels allowed go down so an oil that meets newer ratings tends to also meet the older ratings. But that does not mean the oil provides the same protection as one that only meets the older rating.

That oil is common for the newer CARC Guzzi's. Funny thing, though. While that motor had some failures all over the world most of the failures have stopped except in certain areas/countries, like the UK.

I don't know why, it has been speculated that it could be related to the climate. Perhaps there is another reason, I don't know.

Either way, oil choice is something that leads to much banter. As mentioned, I think the choice should be based more on the quality of the oil and its additive package. After you have chosen the quality of oil you are going to use you pick the viscosity rating appropriate for your riding environment. 

[LowRyter]

I've been running Castrol 20-50 Motorcycle Oil and Castrol Synthetic 75-90 gear oil for the tranny and rear end (+ Harper's molly additive).  I change oil every 2-3 k miles and Uni oil filter every 6k when I service the tranny, rear end, plugs and valves.

 

For the EV, I do the same but change the filter and major service at 10k miles.

 

The 6k and 10k intervals are prescribed in the respective owner's manuals.  I don't understand why the intervals are different. I don't search for Aqip brand oil.  You can get 4 L jug of Castrol Motorcycle semi-syn for $28.

[Retroman]

A sincere thanks to everyone who has replied to this thread.

 

A much belated thanks as I have been recovering from pretty serious back and leg injuries as a result of being run over by a car on a pedestrian crossing. I will have to wear my leathers and back protector when I go shopping in the future!!

 

However I am now back riding the Le Mans so a happy ending although my Ducati 916 will have to go as can't stretch my leg out fast enough when I stop. Don't ask how I found that out!

 

I have completed a mini survey and rang virtually every dealer in the UK about oil preferences etc. There were several 'oil favourites' but the general theme was that the engines will work fine on any manufacturers oils that are equivalent to or exceed Moto Guzzi's original specifications published at the beginning of the millennium.

 

However oil technology has moved on with the specialists favouring Putoline Nano Tech 4 10W-40 or Rock Oil Synthesis 10w-60. Neither are cheap £10 plus a litre but what price does protecting your engine cost? I have gone for Rock Oil as they were very helpful when I phoned them for advice and only time will tell if I have made the right choice.

 

I suppose a lot comes down to personal preference in as much the same way as we have our own thoughts on the best tyres.

 

Now there's another long topic in the making .!!

 

Whilst changing the oil / filter I have also fitted a 'Roper Plate' obtained from Gutsibits in the UK and if anybody wants any advice about fitting one, as it is not as simple as lower sump off and back on again, then let me know as I have some photos of the mod to share.

 

Safe riding everyone.

[docc]

Nigel, glad to hear you are back up and around! And they used to say motorcycles were dangerous!

 

Post up a thread on the sloppage plate install. Based on the comments and discussion, it will likely get moved to "How TO . . ." subforum to better archive for future searching.

 

Thanks and good riding to you!

[Retroman]

Thanks for the good wishes.

 

I had the Le Mans out last weekend and ended up in a duel with a CBR600RR owner all the way back from Devils Bridge, Kirkby Lonsdale, Cumbria along the A65/A682A59 and B roads back to Bolton (For those in the UK that know this route) only to find on stopping at an accident that we were from the same village!.

 

He could n't get his head around the fact that someone his fathers age in a big heavy twin had kept him at bay for most of the route, until the roads got really twisty and sadly pot holed as well. The factory race pack on this bike, which I picked up from Twiggers in Leicester has really transformed my bike and delivers waves of torque just where you need it.

 

Needless to say never had a flicker from the oil warning light during a prolonged period of hard braking and accelerating through a route that contains sections of continuous sweeping bends, switchbacks and hairpins.

 

I will set up a new thread regarding fitting the Roper Plate and work out if I can attach the photos of dismantling and reassembly of the upper sump plate and oil filter / pump sub-assembly.

 

Well worth the work and head scratching involved to help preserve these great machines.  

[sp838]

I am very curious to know what this "factory race pack" consists of...

[Retroman]

Nothing too special.

 

Titanium higher level exhausts (forget the pillion they are too high and too prone to damage)and crossover, which dispenses with the CAT and a replacement ECU set up for what is a virtually straight through system.

 

I am told CATS are not a legal requirement for motorcycles in the UK at present and noise levels are surprisingly low at lower urban speeds albeit with a richer sound than that emitted from the strangled standard system.

 

It's considerably lighter too. This system gets rid of the initial lower range hesitation of the standard set up, with bags of instant torque available throughout the rev range. A simple to fit mod, which can be returned to standard within an hour if you are desperate to carry a pillion or tour with luggage.

 

Transforms the bikes character.

[Denis]

Retroman

 

have you installed the Roper plate yet?

 

I recently fitted one, but didn't take any photos.

 

If you haven't fitted it yet and want some advice , let me know.

[sp838]

Denis, just got mine in the mail. Will be installing it at some point in the upcoming weeks. Please do post about your installation.

[Retroman]

Hello Denis,

 

Yes fully installed.

Will be uploading photos of completing the necessary work on a new Roper Plate thread as soon as I work out how to use the forum tools .

[dangerous]

 I understand that the recommended oil, Agip Racing 5w-40 is no longer available

the other alternatives seem to be 10w-40 viscosity.

 

Agip is now ENI, still get the racing 5/40, seen it last weekend but went for the 10/40 semi syn as Im not a big believer in a full syn in our big bore twin banger air heads, only used full syn in my CX5 turbo, the new Agip or ENI is called 'Ride'

20W50 SG synthetic seems perfect for the V11, 

aint seen a full syn over 40 here docc, any 20/50 is usually a dino oil also aceptable in our old bikes, but with the newer v11 over 1000 and 1st 1100's with there newer plastic cased bearings or what ever they have a lighter semi oil is beter in my books, not that I know shit

[GuzziMoto]

What weight oil you should use depends on a few factors. Some of them are things like the temperature where you ride, along with the type of riding you do, and the bike you are riding.

The V11 has a chart to show you what weight oil it was designed to use in different temperatures.

Around here it gets hot, so I use a full syn 20w/50. There are more than a few companies that offer 20w/50 oil in a full syn around here. Plus, 10w/60 has become very popular and that is another option. The newer CARC Guzzi's are actually designed to use that grade oil. If where you are it never gets too hot a 10w/40 might be the best oil to use. I used to switch to that for the winter, but now I don't ride during the winter (I am older and don't like the cold, plus I hate the way the salt eats the bike).

I do suggest you look for an SG oil rather than a newer spec oil like SH, or SM. That is likely to be better for a motor with flat tappets like the Guzzi motor.

Other than that oil is a touchy subject and everybody has their personal likes and hates. So when it comes to oil, in the end the answer is "Yes".