gstallons Posted February 8, 2015 Posted February 8, 2015 An absolute law concerning synthetic lubricants : Do not use synthetic lubricants in engines w/wet clutches . Unless something has changed I am not aware of this stuff can ruin them .
Scud Posted February 8, 2015 Posted February 8, 2015 An absolute law concerning synthetic lubricants : Do not use synthetic lubricants in engines w/wet clutches . Unless something has changed I am not aware of this stuff can ruin them . My KTM 950 Adventure had a wet clutch and synthetic oil was required. I used synthetic and I thrashed that bike, overheated it regularly on rocky single track with excessive clutch use. No problems.
docc Posted February 8, 2015 Posted February 8, 2015 Be aware that "exceeding SG" can be meant to specify that the oil meets the subsequent SH, SL, or SN specifications. In that case, the SAE label will show the newest rating. Realize that doesn't mean it has more zinc and phosphorus (ZDDP) anti-wear agents, but meets the newer specs which actually have lower ZDDP for precisely the reason Zooter says: saving catalytic converters/ reducing emissions. As a pertinent aside, know that keeping your air filter in good fettle is critical to support your finely selected, and carefully measured, motor oil. That the air filter is rather fussy to access on a V11 makes it more likely that it could be neglected, stressing the oil with more particulate matter. More frequent changes (especially in dusty environs) will help, but don't neglect your air filter!
Rhino1 Posted February 8, 2015 Posted February 8, 2015 An absolute law concerning synthetic lubricants : Do not use synthetic lubricants in engines w/wet clutches . Unless something has changed I am not aware of this stuff can ruin them . My KTM 950 Adventure had a wet clutch and synthetic oil was required. I used synthetic and I thrashed that bike, overheated it regularly on rocky single track with excessive clutch use. No problems. My experience as well. Running full synthetic on bikes since the early 90's, on and off the track, mostly wet clutches (there was that one GSXR750R Limited with a dry clutch... ), with nary a hiccup...
Zooter Posted February 8, 2015 Posted February 8, 2015 The only thing about Mobil 1 is that it is available anywhere. Maxima, not so much. Yeah that ugly cruiser is an eyesore but I figure that our bikes are similar to those Harleys.They are calling a premium Mobil synthetic by "MOBIL 1000" here, I'm assuming it's the same but that's dangerous.
gstallons Posted February 8, 2015 Posted February 8, 2015 Maybe they have changed the friction materials in the friction plates . I'm old w / dated information ?
docc Posted February 8, 2015 Posted February 8, 2015 I've long thought 5wt (sewing machine oil? ) quite light for our crusty donks. I used some for a while but worried that it found its way out through tight little places that 20 wt would not have. I suppose if your trying to turn the beast over near freezing, your starter motor will thank you for the thin oil.
czakky Posted February 8, 2015 Posted February 8, 2015 I just happened to have picked up some Mobil 1 yesterday. There were two bottles of the "old" Mobil 1 (darker bottle) it clearly says "SG" rated. Where as the newer bottles say "suitable for SG rated applications". Thats what I get for helping to clear up some old stock.
Zooter Posted February 9, 2015 Posted February 9, 2015 The plot thickens. I hope I'm understanding properly: Our multi grade stays slippery over a wide range of temperatures. So it feels like sewing machine oil at near freezing bones temp. And when it gets hot it stays slippery instead of disintegrating. Not sure what Penrite is claiming with "extra ten" technology base staying thicker at nominal operating temp. It seems like they want to call it 5w50 but SAE grading is 5w40.
GuzziMoto Posted February 9, 2015 Posted February 9, 2015 The plot thickens. I hope I'm understanding properly: Our multi grade stays slippery over a wide range of temperatures. So it feels like sewing machine oil at near freezing bones temp. And when it gets hot it stays slippery instead of disintegrating. Not sure what Penrite is claiming with "extra ten" technology base staying thicker at nominal operating temp. It seems like they want to call it 5w50 but SAE grading is 5w40. The rating 5w/40 (or 10w/40, or whatever) means that at cold temps it has the viscosity of a 5 weight (or 10 weight if it is the 10w/40) oil. At warm temps, 100 degrees C, it has the viscosity of a 40 weight oil. This is measuring the viscosity, or thickness, of the oil. It is not measuring the slipperyness of the oil, nor is is measuring anything to do with the oil breaking down. To add to that, when you see a multi-grade oil like 10w/40 it is basically a 10 weight oil with viscosity modifiers that react under heat to thicken the oil. So, a 10w/40 oil is a 10 weight oil with viscosity modifiers to make it act like a 40 weight oil at 100 degrees C, and a 20w/50 is a thicker 20 weight base oil with visosity modifiers that make it act like a 50 weight oil at 100 degrees C. I don't know anything about Penrite Extra Ten technology. 1
Scud Posted February 9, 2015 Posted February 9, 2015 The rating 5w/40 (or 10w/40, or whatever) means that at cold temps it has the viscosity of a 5 weight (or 10 weight if it is the 10w/40) oil. At warm temps, 100 degrees C, it has the viscosity of a 40 weight oil. This is measuring the viscosity, or thickness, of the oil. It is not measuring the slipperyness of the oil, nor is is measuring anything to do with the oil breaking down. To add to that, when you see a multi-grade oil like 10w/40 it is basically a 10 weight oil with viscosity modifiers that react under heat to thicken the oil. So, a 10w/40 oil is a 10 weight oil with viscosity modifiers to make it act like a 40 weight oil at 100 degrees C, and a 20w/50 is a thicker 20 weight base oil with visosity modifiers that make it act like a 50 weight oil at 100 degrees C. Very clear explanation. Thanks.
Zooter Posted February 10, 2015 Posted February 10, 2015 The rating 5w/40 (or 10w/40, or whatever) means that at cold temps it has the viscosity of a 5 weight (or 10 weight if it is the 10w/40) oil. At warm temps, 100 degrees C, it has the viscosity of a 40 weight oil. This is measuring the viscosity, or thickness, of the oil. It is not measuring the slipperyness of the oil, nor is is measuring anything to do with the oil breaking down. To add to that, when you see a multi-grade oil like 10w/40 it is basically a 10 weight oil with viscosity modifiers that react under heat to thicken the oil. So, a 10w/40 oil is a 10 weight oil with viscosity modifiers to make it act like a 40 weight oil at 100 degrees C, and a 20w/50 is a thicker 20 weight base oil with visosity modifiers that make it act like a 50 weight oil at 100 degrees C. I don't know anything about Penrite Extra Ten technology.Thanks.I was reading an article from Amsoil claiming most synthetic isn't actually the real deal but processed dino.
H-E-Ross Posted June 26, 2015 Posted June 26, 2015 In New England where it gets cold in winter (if you don't have climate controlled storage) it is a good idea to do the oil change with the season regardless of mileage. I don't think anyone has ever ruined an engine changing the oil too often.
dangerous Posted June 26, 2015 Posted June 26, 2015 well I do mine every winter, regardless of milage... that way sitting in the cold damp garage wont bother it and any moisture in the old oil is gone and its ready for summer
GuzziMoto Posted June 30, 2015 Posted June 30, 2015 The rating 5w/40 (or 10w/40, or whatever) means that at cold temps it has the viscosity of a 5 weight (or 10 weight if it is the 10w/40) oil. At warm temps, 100 degrees C, it has the viscosity of a 40 weight oil. This is measuring the viscosity, or thickness, of the oil. It is not measuring the slipperyness of the oil, nor is is measuring anything to do with the oil breaking down. To add to that, when you see a multi-grade oil like 10w/40 it is basically a 10 weight oil with viscosity modifiers that react under heat to thicken the oil. So, a 10w/40 oil is a 10 weight oil with viscosity modifiers to make it act like a 40 weight oil at 100 degrees C, and a 20w/50 is a thicker 20 weight base oil with visosity modifiers that make it act like a 50 weight oil at 100 degrees C. I don't know anything about Penrite Extra Ten technology.Thanks.I was reading an article from Amsoil claiming most synthetic isn't actually the real deal but processed dino. While I like Amsoil and often use their product, I do hate their PR. They love to say things that are usually based in fact but with a serious spin to make their point. There are different types and grades of synthetic oils. And one that is more "synthetic" is not automatically better than one that is based on dino oil. It could be, but it is not automatically so. Some that are more dino based, think of it as getting their raw materials from dino oil vs getting them from another source. But the oil can still be built to be as it was intended to be. It can still be a very good oil. Or it could be crap. But if it is crap it is not because it is based on dino oil.
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