Trying to find a balance....

[czakky]

Hey guys, Long time lurker here with a new to me 02 v11 lemans. I'm trying to get a strangle hold on this TPS reset/TB balance thing and the part that I thought would be simple is turning out to be more complicated than I had expected. Anywhoo, My first question is when checking mV?? what should I set my multimeter too??

next question, if put I little clips on my multi. (as opposed to probes) would that somehow reduce mV and throw off my reading?

I'm sure the further i get into this I will have more questions and appreciate any help you guys could give me.  The little bit I rode this bike were glorious and after all riding this thing is my goal.

[docc]

Meters have different ranges. My Triplett's lowest is 200mV which is not high enough, so I use the 2 V range.

 

The clips won't affect the reading. Just make sure you have a good connection and you start with the throttle plate completely closed (linkage disconnected, right idle screw backed out fully, no contact from the high idle mechanism).

[mznyc]

Took me a few stabs to get the TPS/TB balance/Idle to where I wanted.Always a bit of a compromise,adjust here,changes over there and after you get it back on the road you may have to re-adjust.But as it seems you know, getting a TPS base is critical,after that one you get TB balance and idle close is where you'll do a pinch of this and a pinch of that air bypass,TPS,idle tweaks.

[czakky]

Wow... I cannot for the life of me get a steady reading. I've got paper clips in the back of the harness and it is bouncing all over from like 350-130 in the 2v range.  I've got the right idle screw backed out like 3/8" does it have to be completely out?? Can't understand how this could change my readings?? maybe I should try something different for a connection?? Right now I'm a little frustrated. tomorrow's another day.

[docc]

That's likely the connection. Can be very frustrating. Pins or sewing needles will likely give better contact than the paper clips.

 

otherwise: Breakout Harness

[68C]

I cut back the insulation a bit and soldered on two wires then wrapped them in self amalgamating tape. Then put female crimps on so it's now easy to check.

 

(Self amalgating tape is like insulation tape, you have to stretch it a bit and then wrap it on, somehow it bonds to itself over a few hours)

[czakky]

So last night i ran out of power. charged up my battery (off the bike). hooked back up this morning and got a small arc. nothing major got the tps setup lined up fairly easily. mucho gracias to everyone. Started her up and she idled like never before. woohoo. so im gonna ride around the block before work than balance my tbs when i get home. kickstand up and. she dies. nothing no starter no neutral light just a faint oil light... key off back on.... nada. now even with key off headlight is on... disconnect batt. go to work.... Damnit!!! There is a short somewhere... kickstand sensor?? She was glorious for a short while..

[docc]

First thing:

Remove the front  Starter Relay and replace with a known good one, maybe from the middle position assuming it is also 5 pin. The headlamp should go out, but the bike will have to be started with the stand up if there is no middle relay.

 

Although,  hmmmm, headlight on while the key is off sounds like you better take the ingnition switch out for inspection.

[czakky]

All new relays... Same thing. The weird thing is that the fuel pump won't prime until I put up the kickstand. No neutral light push the starter button... cick! nothin...

Man I waited 13 yrs. to get one of these seems like the guzzi gods are out to get me. I'm not giving up but a little gutted at this moment. Maybe this weekend I can take the ignition switch out. Not sure what to look for but we'll see.  Thanks again guys

[docc]

Hang in there, we'll get through this. Likely it's more than one thing.

 

The Run Switch gets power two ways: through the Sidestand Switch directly when the stand is up (sounds like that part is working), and 2) the Neutral Switch in the left gearbox side plate activates the Middle Relay so the bike will run with the stand down while in neutral. So, "no run" in neutral/ no neutral light: check the connection to the neutral switch under the starter (clean, tighten, dielectric grease in the boot. Otherwise, the Neutral Switch can be removed (easier with the starter out) cleaned with a contact/electrical cleaner, tested for function (pressing the ball in should give continuity on an Ohm meter) or replaced if faulty.

 

The "no starter engagement" can be the Clutch Switch at the lever or it's connectors under the left side of the tank. Put your ear close to the clutch lever and pull it gently. You should here a faint *click* - otherwise, spray the lever-switch interface with a contact cleaner being careful to protect the tank's paint. You can remove the lever for better cleaning, but be ready to catch the tiny ball bearing from the lever housing. If the infamous bullet connectors are the trouble, try thumbing the starter button with the clutch lever in, while rotating the bars lock to lock. If the starter kicks in, it is surely the connectors under the left side of the tank forward along the frame. Clean, crimp, seal. The Starter (forward/first) Relay or it's base connections could also be flinky. Have an assistant attempt the starting drill while you wiggle the relay in its base (it as, for sure, a 5-pin relay?).

 

Most notable, though, you said the headlamp is on when the key is off? I assume you're stopping that by disconnecting the battery? I would definitely begin with inspecting the Ignition Switch for broken wires or some really obvious fault. It is not hard to remove. I looked earlier for Kiwi_Roy's thread on that. but struck out. Search "replies" for ignition switch and I'll do some searching from here also.

[czakky]

DOCC, if you sir ever find yourself in FL I owe you a lot of beer!! While searching for the neutral switch (besides residual oil dripping from god knows where???) I see under the right side horn a dangling ground..... no idea where it was bolted to but I bolted it on the oil cooler bracket and away she goes, running fine, headlight is off when bike is off..... Any idea where this ground is supposed to go?? haha seems a little close to the headers where I put it (3/4")? Its gotta be the neutral light switch ground I guess. 

[docc]

Funny you should say that . . . I went to USF (University of Sun &Fun) and have folks in Clearwater.  Beer . . . . mmmmmmm!

 

I am vague on that "ground wire", though. Looking up under the starter, can you see a wire connected to the gearbox (neutral switch)?

 

Does the ground come from the regulator case (finned box above the oil cooler)?

 

Oil leak is likely the crankcase vent return. Look with a light on top of the back of the motor (behind the left cylinder above the intake tract) for a big (5/8") hose connection. If it's all funky and nasty, you need a new return line.

[czakky]

U name the time and place...

 

could be... its friggin long it goes into the abyss and I lose it with the tank on.

 

Definitely not from the reg.

 

I hope so it looks fairly clean, guess you don't often hear about trans. leaking.

 

But she's running better I've got the TBs balanced now and there's still some popping and farting happening but I'll play with it you guys are lifesavers!!

[czakky]

whew! alot of "huntin" in the rev range like uncontrollable almost. She smells pretty stinky too. Rich? Can I just adjust the TPS or will that mess up my well synced TBs?

[docc]

Best to start at the beginning: TPS Setup and Throttle balance in FAQ