Trying to find a balance....

[czakky]

I'm getting pretty fast at this whole process as Ive done it  three times this week.  My bike is running loads better.... but still kinda snatchy especially past 3500 rpm.

I guess the only two pieces of this process that are still a little vague to me are the step after balancing the TBs ar idle when you're supposedly able to measure around .521 volts.... mine is like .221 at 1100-1200 rpm if I crank the left Idle pos. way down (4.5-5k rpm) it still only reads .300 something.

The other part I'm foggy about and this may go hand in hand, is that the right idle screw is never sipposed to be turned back in.... I have just been getting it close to making contact when I connect the sync. rod back up.... ?? is this right??

[docc]

The experts disagree on many aspects of this procedure. I would entirely delete the right idle screw (I've done it both ways). It's just one less variable and adds nothing to the betterment.

 

Second, it is really important to set the 165 mV baseline with the right throttle plate entirely closed. Then hook up the linkage and adjust the left idle screw to that 525 mV range and see where she idles with the air screws 1/2 to a full turn. As Hubert says, it should not idle well or at all with the screws closed.

 

The Veglia tachs are commonly 300-500 rpm high, so don't be bashful getting her to idle smoothly halfway between the 1000 and 2000 marks.

[czakky]

it is supposed to be running to get that 525mV right?

[docc]

Sorry, the delay posting back. No, not running: key on, run switch on. Once set, then test idle speed running. Unfortunately, you will only know that result after it is fully warm.

[Kiwi_Roy]

So last night i ran out of power. charged up my battery (off the bike). hooked back up this morning and got a small arc. nothing major got the tps setup lined up fairly easily. mucho gracias to everyone. Started her up and she idled like never before. woohoo. so im gonna ride around the block before work than balance my tbs when i get home. kickstand up and. she dies. nothing no starter no neutral light just a faint oil light... key off back on.... nada. now even with key off headlight is on... disconnect batt. go to work.... Damnit!!! There is a short somewhere... kickstand sensor?? She was glorious for a short while..

The small arc seems to have done something.

Would you by any chance while doing up the positive terminal flashed your wrench onto the ECU.

You must always disconnect the Negative terminal first and reconnect it last, that way you cannot short the battery.

 

I helped another owner who had flashed to the ECU, this had overheated the ground wire which melted and shorted a few other wires inside the loom

to ground, luckily the wire doesn't go too far and he was able to repair the damage with tape.

[Kiwi_Roy]

This is how I have adapted the procedure (I have a V11 Sport with TPS on right and a V11 EV with TPS on the left)

 

I disconnect the linkage and back off the throttle stops and fast idle cam

Now using a strip of paper as a feeler I wind in both Left and right stops until I feel the screws just griping the paper

 

Set the TPS at 150 mV

(Setting the TPS at 150 mV ensures it's not jammed up against its end stop +/- even 50 mV has very little effect on the Air /Fuel ratio)

 

Wind in the RH throttle stop to around 500 mV and the LH screw by the same amount (there's nothing magic about 500 mV, it's just a starting point)

 

Open the air bleeds about 1/2 turn

 

Start the bike and balance the throttles with a manometer using the air bleed screws or if it's too far out a little on either throttle stop also aiming for the idle speed where I want it, I like mine as low as possible ~ 900

 

So now the bike is idling nicely with the throttles in balance.

 

Stop the bike and reconnect the throttle linkage making sure it doesn't open either throttle.

 

Now with the bike running the balance should still be correct at idle.

 

Rev the bike up and make sure it balances at about 3000, adjusting the knob in the V11 Sport case or the screw on the V11 EV

 

Re-check the idle balance, usually just a tweak on one of the air bleeds is enough.

 

 

 

The throttle bodies on my V11 Sport are quite worn with age and I find just using the LH idle screw results in a different idle speed each time I blip the throttle. I use both so the RH body always has a positive stop and the idle is consistent. 

[gstallons]

p.s. You do not want the throttle plates to be completely closed. This will wear the throttle bore and plates out when they are completely closed. You should have screwed the throttle stops in 1 turn after they contacted the paper.

[Kiwi_Roy]

p.s. You do not want the throttle plates to be completely closed. This will wear the throttle bore and plates out when they are completely closed. You should have screwed the throttle stops in 1 turn after they contacted the paper.

I do if you read further, I only close them to get the reference point.

[czakky]

 

So last night i ran out of power. charged up my battery (off the bike). hooked back up this morning and got a small arc. nothing major got the tps setup lined up fairly easily. mucho gracias to everyone. Started her up and she idled like never before. woohoo. so im gonna ride around the block before work than balance my tbs when i get home. kickstand up and. she dies. nothing no starter no neutral light just a faint oil light... key off back on.... nada. now even with key off headlight is on... disconnect batt. go to work.... Damnit!!! There is a short somewhere... kickstand sensor?? She was glorious for a short while..

The small arc seems to have done something.

Would you by any chance while doing up the positive terminal flashed your wrench onto the ECU.

You must always disconnect the Negative terminal first and reconnect it last, that way you cannot short the battery.

 

I helped another owner who had flashed to the ECU, this had overheated the ground wire which melted and shorted a few other wires inside the loom

to ground, luckily the wire doesn't go too far and he was able to repair the damage with tape.

 

Exactly what I did... I know it's mechanic's 101 stupid mistake. I think I got that all sorted though, I hope.

[czakky]

THERE IT IS!!! Thanks again to everyone, especially Docc! Bike is running great no popping farting or anything. Maybe a tiny little hiccup just off idle but you'd really have to split hairs to feel it. Just wish you guys would have told me sooner how awesome these bikes are, haha. Now if this rain would just get outta here....

[docc]

Be careful you don't actually get airborne like a P-51 over the Skyway! 

[czakky]

Aaargh, She's running great now but it just doesn't want to idle down.... All through the rev range great, but once she gets warm it wants to hang at an indicated 22-2400 rpm for like 90 seconds before settling down. I tried to readjust my TBs thinking that maybe I had the air bypass out to far or maybe they walked on me even rebalanced them at idle with the bypass screws in a little further. Tightened up anything that would give me any air leaks. Guess I havent checked my airbox yet. Any Ideas?

[docc]

I had said to set the closed throttle body TPS at 165 mV, but it truly is 150 as Kiwi_Roy had said. Where did yours end up and what is your TPS mV at idle?

[Kiwi_Roy]

Do you have the vacuum ports plugged off as they should be?

For it to idle fast it must be getting air somewhere.

 

Check that the throttles are closing straight away.

[czakky]

I had said to set the closed throttle body TPS at 165 mV, but it truly is 150 as Kiwi_Roy had said. Where did yours end up and what is your TPS mV at idle?

I went in the middle and did about 158, after it was all hooked back up I had it set at 525. I never checked it while idling.

 

Do you have the vacuum ports plugged off as they should be?

For it to idle fast it must be getting air somewhere.

 

Check that the throttles are closing straight away.

Throttles snap back nicely, vacuum ports seem real tight. One thing I found was right where the header meets the exhausts (stock and stock) there is  a slight leak I just noticed a little carbon there. Could this be my problem??

 

It doesn't look cracked like what some have experienced but it does look like it almost slid back a little.  Is there a recommended gasket I should use? I've read mixed feelings about the steel shims not sure if they pertain to stock headers though.