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Posted

Just wondering if anyone knows of a way to get more output from the v11 sport, either with an aftermarket alternator, a swap from another model, or from another brand altogether (someone I was speaking with said there was a possibility that a Ducati alternator might be compatible, didn't know which one.) The 350W stock alternator doesn't leave much wiggle room to play with... Thanks!

Posted

The bike really is a no-frills roadster.In that realm it works quite well.Mine has a Rich Maud seat,MPH risers and MotoBits controls,which makes it comfortable for all day riding.Adding multiple power outputs or aux lighting is stressing the system.I run a Powerlet port for a heated vest,and plan on adding heated grips with.Beyond that,I wouldn't push it,and that is no city driving,just back roads above 4k most of the time.It may be too much work,time and money to try to convert to something else.If your thinking those are your needs you better be served with a Norge or a Japanese Sport Tourer.If you find a kit,please let us know.It's been asked for years and no one has come up with an answer.

Posted

You can also consider HL relays,LED bulbs for turn signals and brake lights which will reduce draw.

Posted

I do have led turnsignals up front and that all in one fender eliminator tail light and turn signal cluster in the back which is also led. what are hl relays?

 

if the bike has an oem ducati alternator, is there a more recent higher output unit that has the same physical dimensions that would swap into the v11? i have some friends who are very knowledgeable wrt to ducatis... thank you!

Posted

...i have some friends who are very knowledgeable wrt to ducatis... thank you!

I don't think that this lump of alternator finds place in a Ducati engine. It maybe manufactored by a company by the same name, but this has only historical reasons. 'Ducati Energia' since half a century or so has nothing to do with 'Ducati Mecchanica' or whatever is left of this company nowadays. The internet knows more about it.

When I bought my V11 heated grips were installed already. I used them for two or three seasons, then I wanted to get rid of the ugly China looking power switch. Besides that I didn't find hot grips to be comfortable or really handwarming, especially under wet conditions.

Nevertheless these grips, or the additional load they induced, never caused any problems for the battery or the light output. I just didnt like them.

 

Hubert

Posted

Well, in the meantime I found both of these items, and both WILL fit on the v11:

 

http://www.euromotoelectrics.com/product-p/duc-rotor.htm

 

http://www.euromotoelectrics.com/product-p/duc-stator.htm

 

I must have annoyed the guy at Euromoto Electrics because he's not replying to my email. The last time he replied he told me they wouldn't produce more current. Mystery as to why until he does reply, they are rated at 450 watts, and our stock generator is 350.... 

Posted

Whew! Four hundred bucks. I guess that's not so bad if you're replacing a failed stock item. I wonder if the regulator is up to the extra current? It doesn't even seem happy with what it gets now.

 

BTW: "hl relays" would be headlight relays. I suppose if they have heavier gauge wiring and heavy duty relay contacts, the current draw might be reduced somewhat, but the bulb is still going to get its 55 or 60 watts.

 

Seems like we came up with a running demand of about 170 watts for the V11. I forget the methodology there, and it could be dubious. No doubt, adequate output does come on more like 4,000 rpm if every thing is working well (regulator grounding, healthy 30 amp fuse, quality relays and good connections).

 

Attempting to run Gerbings heated gloves and jacket (22 + 77 = 99 watts) could have been the end of my last regulator . . .

Posted
...

Attempting to run Gerbings heated gloves and jacket (22 + 77 = 99 watts) could have been the end of my last regulator . . .

Acc. to what I know Electronics react rather sensitive to high temperatures. So heating devices used typically on cold days not necessarily must overstress a then also rather cool running regulator. It's a 1:1 thing, 20° less ambient result in 20° less unit temperature (in a stable system), this way giving you some extra range for extra load.

The original alternator is rated 350W/14V/5000min-1. This value normaly indicates what load the item is able to stem within a given temperture range / a given max. temperature. That's how we at work are rating our products. Stay below this temperature and you can demand more output or load - maybe that's the way how they can rate their unit with specs. I think it's a trial an error thing, or at least a matter of an extra bunch of emails ;)

Doesn't anyone have the tools to measure the current out of the A/R when all systems are on? Have you measured the resulting voltage when you had your 'P/A/S' plugged in and working, Docc? :)

 

Hubert

Posted

Just a try to paraphrase the accessory set you wear on your bike. Prewarmed gloves, comfy cushions, things like that ;)

 

Hubert

Posted

Key on : 12.74; idle: 12.56; 2500 rpm: 14.2.

 

Jacket and gloves on: idle: 12.25;  2500 rpm: 12.65; 4000 rpm: 13.0

 

77 watt jacket only at 4000 rpm:  13.5.

Posted

Did you read the same values at 5000 or could the alternator squeeze out a bit more at higher revs? The manual says 5000 as reference.

 

Hubert

Posted

I'm going to run some tests on my bike next week. I'll post my findings.

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