higher output alternator for v11 sport?

[docc]

Did you read the same values at 5000 or could the alternator squeeze out a bit more at higher revs? The manual says 5000 as reference.

 

Hubert

I didn't do any readings above 4000. With no accessory load, the 14.2 volts is steady from 2500 to 4000.

 

Better not check it tonight - she really howls down here in the basement on the lift as the revs climb!

[Kiwi_Roy]

 

 

Doesn't anyone have the tools to measure the current out of the A/R when all systems are on? Have you measured the resulting voltage when you had your 'P/A/S' plugged in and working, Docc?

 

Hubert

 

I posted how to make a meter shunt a while back

http://i1304.photobucket.com/albums/s526/Kiwi_Roy/SimpleMeterShunt_zps558bfdb2.jpg

If you want to get a feel for the net battery drain / charge put the shunt between battery and the wires that normally connect.

The short #12 shunt will easily measure the starter current, ~ 160 Amps for 5 seconds or more.

[sp838]

Not very good results: around 10.3 with the starter cranking, 12.6 at idle, 13.7 with the throttle wide open. Hooked a 60 watt bulb to the battery to see what would happen with an extra accessory, barely over 13 with the throttle open, a little over 10 at idle. Dreading it, but will have to start by going over the whole bike connection by connection with contact cleaner and dielectric grease. Then... Also, my fuel injection is clearly f-ed up. Fueling pulsates. I could feel the bike lurching while riding but wasn't sure what it was.

[docc]

Those aren't terrible voltages: this is do-able!

 

I didn't look back through all your posts, but 1) ground the regulator case to the timing chest. While you're at it, ground the timing chest to the spine frame.

2) make sure your battery terminal stack is clean and tight. 3) inspect the 30 amp regulator fuse for signs of funkiness.

 

Two questions on voltage: What is your voltage key on (not running)? and what rpm are you referencing "throttle open/throttle wide open?"

[Kiwi_Roy]

Not very good results: around 10.3 with the starter cranking, 12.6 at idle, 13.7 with the throttle wide open. Hooked a 60 watt bulb to the battery to see what would happen with an extra accessory, barely over 13 with the throttle open, a little over 10 at idle. Dreading it, but will have to start by going over the whole bike connection by connection with contact cleaner and dielectric grease. Then... Also, my fuel injection is clearly f-ed up. Fueling pulsates. I could feel the bike lurching while riding but wasn't sure what it was.

First off, do not use Dielectric grease on any contacts, the only place for that is in the garbage IMHO

 

Do you have a multimeter with the Diode test function (---->|----), if so unplug the regulator and measure from each yellow wire to the red ones, each should read 0.4 to 0.5 Volts

 

Ground the regulator and check the 30 Amp fuse for signs of overheating as Docc says, it's a well documented fault with these bikes.

 

Do you have after market headlight relays?

It messes up the Voltage reference if the headlight current doesn't pass through the bikes headlight relay.

[sp838]

docc:

 

I will make those grounding mods as soon as possible, thank you. Also will clean as much of everything as possible, and check the fuse. I don't remember the voltage with the key on and bike not running, will check and post back. As I do not have a functioning Tach right now (on my to-do list) I don't know the rpm, but it was pretty much full throttle.

 

Roy:

 

Why no dielectric grease? I've been told by many people that I should use it. 

 

Don't know if my multimeter has that function... I will check.

 

The headlight relays that I know of are located under the seat. There are two of them (with "headlights" written on them) and they are grey Bosch brand......

 

 

 

Thanks for your help guys.

[gstallons]

I am the only other person that agrees with you concerning dielectric grease. It is to be used on spark plug wire connectors only. 

I use a Motorcraft XG-12 electrical grease on all connections. There is a Stabilant-22  for low amperage / low voltage connectors too.

[68C]

By definition a dielectric is a non-conductor, so you don't use it anywhere that you want electical current to flow. You do want to use it where you do not want electrical flow.

 

So, inside the sparkplug cap is a good place to use it as it will help exclude moisture and will not conduct the spark energy away. it should not be used between bolted up earth points, contacts or the pins on the electrical plugs.

 

Ideally the bolted up joints and plug connectors should be chemically clean and free of corrosion, once bolted up or plugged in  it is now safe to overlay with dielectric grease.

 

Silicon is a dielectric so most silicon greases are dielectric.  I understand there are special silicon grease compounds with conductive fillers used in industry for specific purposes such as the interface between an aircraft skin and antennas although I have no experience of them.

[gstallons]

People assume the dielectric grease is a conductivity enhancer .  It is not.

 Search the word "dielectric" and then read what it is.

[docc]

True that. As gs taught me: even the copper paste is still an insulator/ non-conductive.

 

Beyond that (and even more worrisome), the silicon in dielectric grease chemically turns to something like glass on or around any contact points (i.e. relays). It can infiltrate the wiring in this state for a significant distance. We can all imagine what a coating of glass would do for the conductivity especially on contact points. Glass is one of the best insulators.

 

I'll get back to my "Maintenance Checklists" and amend them.

 

Thanks for expert reminder guys!

[Kiwi_Roy]

I swear by Vaseline but I've only been using it for 50 years so the jury is still out.

It doesn't conduct but it keeps air and water away from the metal so it doesn't corrode.

Or in the case of battery posts, oxidize, Lead Oxide is also a good insulator.

 

Actually we were taught as apprentices to use it on large drum controllers where it acts

as a lubricant to prevent wear.

 

Good enough for a baby's bum, good enough for your Guzzi 

[docc]

I think I may have dated a large drum controller in college . . .

[sp838]

Hahaha... Ok ok, you've convinced me. Contact cleaner, and maybe some vaseline... Still dreading it. Any other tools I will need? What about general electrical/electronics instructional material? I know exactly nothing about this stuff.

[mznyc]

Then... Also, my fuel injection is clearly f-ed up. Fueling pulsates. I could feel the bike lurching while riding but wasn't sure what it was.

This is probably unrelated to an electrical problem.If you want help let me know.I'll be in the city Mon,Tues night I could take a look at it.I have done all my own tuning on the Scura and she runs perfect......

[sp838]

Thanks mznyc! I would love to take you up on that. (And that way you can see the fender eliminator in person.) I will send you a PM.