higher output alternator for v11 sport?

[sp838]

Had the tank off last night and checked the main battery grounding cable as suggested by Kiwi_Roy, and it has a fat wad of electrical tape in the middle of it, which suggests to me that it was cut at some point and spliced back together. So that's the first thing to fix. I didn't trace it back all the way to where it's mounted, wouldn't be surprised if there were other nasty things back there.

 

The wiring along the frame under the tank for the most part looks ok, I didn't really get into it. Kind of dirty overall. Some weird lines running here and there that don't look like they are part of the stock harness.

 

The battery stacks have three thick main wires on each terminal, and a thin green one on the positive terminal which goes to a cylindrical electrical thing next to the ECU (which I can't find in the manual   ,) and on the negative there is a thin red wire which is zip tied to the main harness that goes along the spine, and it then disappears into a rat's nest of other thin red wires. I will investigate these further. Lots of brittle cracked harness, but I didn't notice any exposes wires or much in the way of corrosion (yet...)

 

Not to change the subject, but there was another weird thing I found: what looks like a thin breather hose coming out of the right side intake manifold. It wasn't attached to anything. It does not appear in the workshop manual. When I put the tank back on it annoyed me that it was hanging there. So I (temporarily, pending some explanation) attached it to the tiny little nozzle on the bottom of the "Pressure Adjuster" (section I page 6 of the workshop manual) because that was the only thing nearby that seemed like a logical place for it to go onto.

 

I haven't tested the r/r yet, will do that next, and get deeper into inspecting the wires. I'd like to figure out what those two extra wires are that are running off the battery. There are also some connectors that aren't hooked up to anything. The PO put a LED fender eliminator on the back and LED turn signals on the front and that was done sloppily, with electrical tape splices. Also the side stand switch is broken but still wired into the harness, so that could be a cause for some electrical badness, I'd like to remove it if possible.

[docc]

Good for you! You're onto some of the spooky badness, for sure. Sounds like it's time for a new ground cable. While you're at it, make sure the regulator is grounded to the timing chest and that is grounded to the spine frame.

 

Next to sort out what ever the PO has wired in. Knowledgeable technicians or enthusiasts would not use red wire on the negative side of a 12vDC system. It is the proper home of black wires, or possibly dark green.  So where ever those go is suspect. Can you post a picture of the mystery cylinder?

 

The hose form the intake picks up vacuum there. There should be an identical port on the other side. Originally, they were part of the carbon canister emissions mess. These are also the vacuum taps used to balance the throttle bodies.

 

If there is a brass nipple on the other intake, you can attach the hose between them. I prefer using rubber caps on my nipples to completely separate the intakes. What people do with their nipples has been the subject of some debate. There have been some creative suggestions, not entirely technical in nature. No pictures, please!

 

Regardless, the regulator nozzle is open for atmospheric reference and should not have a vacuum applied.

[sp838]

Ok, so the the thing attached directly to the battery is a K&S flasher relay:

 

http://www.amazon.com/Technologies-Type-Flasher-Relay-24-0005/dp/B0013LDMLO

 

So it seems like a lot of the sloppy wiring is related to the blinkers added by the PO.

 

Really can't wait wait to clean up the electrical.

 

Again, not to get off topic but: as far as the intake is concerned, the left side has an allen bolt in the spot where, on the right side, there is a breather tube. Should I remove this breather tube and close it up?

[docc]

I used to keep mine bolted off until I finally stripped the threads removing them to do the throttle body balance. Then I went back to the brass nipples and rubber caps.

 

For now, I think you'd be better off to seal it with a short fastener.

[Kiwi_Roy]

My intake manifolds just have a 6mm screw and washer, when you do a balance you can use a couple of 6mm grease nipples with the ball bearing and spring removed to attach your home built manometer. The flasher relay on mine is just beside the positive battery terminal but it is through a fuse.

You can either short out the side-stand switch or remove the relay and short pins 30 to 87.

Sounds like Mickey Mouse has been in there for sure.

[docc]

Hold the phone on that side stand switch . . .

 

When you say short it, you don't mean to ground?

 

You're saying you can just close the connection, bypass the switch?

 

Just to clarify, the Side Stand Switch supplies current to the Run Switch while in gear and in motion. It is the main current flow while riding. To prevent riding off with the side stand down, we have the Neutral Switch on the left side of the gearbox. It activates the center relay and supplies current to the Run Switch while the side stand is down in neutral. The schematics call it the "Side Stand Relay" but it is activated by the Neutral Switch.

 

The Side Stand Switch supplies running current directly with no relay. I would think it is easy enough to keep in service to prevent riding off on a side stand. Half way to a bad day there.

[Kiwi_Roy]

Docc, you are correct, I need to be more careful with the terminology,

Actually the easiest way to bypass the switch is remove the Sidestand (Neutral) relay and wrap a strand of bare wire around the 30 & 87 pins then 

replace it in the socket. For other model Guzzis with a different switch wrap the wire around 30, 87 & 87A in a figure 8 fashion.

 

Another one that gets confused is Chassis, Frame, Ground, Earth, Negative 

 

I finally gave up on my sidestand switch, it's been frying away for months. I have 3 other guzzis without a switch.

[docc]

So, that relay bypass would delete both the Side Stand Switch, the Neutral Switch, and the relay?

[Kiwi_Roy]

No, you still want the neutral switch for the neutral light

[luhbo]

The side stand switch is a life saver. If it's not your life than at least the bike's one. Don't be an idiot and remove/bypass it.

 

Hubert

[gstallons]

_{You sound like you've ridden off with your sidestand down.  An experience that will last a lifetime !}

[helicopterjim R.I.P.]

The side stand switch is a life saver. If it's not your life than at least the bike's one. Don't be an idiot and remove/bypass it.

 

Hubert

 

Oooops .... I'm an idiot ....

[luhbo]

You just need to forget it once. Might be the case that as a pilot you're used to check list procedures before take off, might even find fun in them. Being not a pilot I prefer a fool proof system, more I definitely need it. I removed the clutch switch ('cause adults start the engine with the left thumb, and because the cable was broken) and that's trouble enough resp. scratches a bit at this pic from time to time. I don't want to look really silly because I forgot the s/s. In such moments you can't hand pick the spectators.

 

Hubert

[felix42o]

The side stand switch is a life saver. If it's not your life than at least the bike's one. Don't be an idiot and remove/bypass it.

 

Hubert

 Particularly on these bikes...you can trash the case pretty quickly with the way our sidestands mount.  

[sp838]

The side stand switch is a life saver. If it's not your life than at least the bike's one. Don't be an idiot and remove/bypass it.

 

Hubert

 

Well, mine is busted anyway, so I'd like to make sure it's not leeching juice out of the system. I suppose I could replace it with a working one, but I have no problems remembering to put the side stand up before riding off, so it seems like more trouble and money than its worth.