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higher output alternator for v11 sport?


sp838

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Just read this on the Powerlet website:

 

"A dirty fuel filter can cause the fuel pump to use 120 watts, 60 more than normal. A dirty fuel filter is a common cause for a voltage regulator to fail on a fuel-injected bike."

 

http://www.powerlet.com/learningCenter/excessCapacity

 

Very interesting. Anyone have any direct experience with this?

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Just read this on the Powerlet website:

 

"A dirty fuel filter can cause the fuel pump to use 120 watts, 60 more than normal. A dirty fuel filter is a common cause for a voltage regulator to fail on a fuel-injected bike."

 

http://www.powerlet.com/learningCenter/excessCapacity

 

Very interesting. Anyone have any direct experience with this?

There might be something in it, the pump sure makes a racket. It develops a lot more pressure and relieves through an internal relief valve.

 

When I get a chance I will simulate a plugged filter and take a reading.

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I am surprised their table of common operating loads states  electronic ignition draws 50 watts.  Is it really that high?

 

And the computer 25 watts? Seems high, but I have no way of knowing.

 

(These are both separate from the 60 watts they claim for the fuel pump.)

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Well, I have no idea if / when mine was ever replaced by the POs, so gonna pop a fresh one in there.

 

K_Roy, would love to know the results of such a test, would be interesting to know if this could be a potential issue for the r/r's general health.

 

docc, granted I know next to nothing on the subject, those numbers seem high to me too. Maybe they are intentionally over stating the operational loads in order to discourage people from going crazy adding accessories and then complaining when they don't work?

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 K_Roy, would love to know the results of such a test, would be interesting to know if this could be a potential issue for the r/r's general health.

 

Ok, I just did a test on the ECU  and fuel pump

While priming the load is 3.82 Amps

After the pump stops the current drops to 190 mA

So from simple subtraction the pump is drawing just a tad over 3.6 Amps

 

Simulating a blocked filter is easy, all you have to do is pinch off the return to the tank, this forces the pump to relieve internally as it does with a blocked filter.

The current with a complete blockage rises to ~ 7.5 Amps, more than double the normal.

A couple of times the pump actually stalled drawing just over 8 Amps 

 

In Watts

Normal 3.6 x 12 = 36 Watts

Blocked 7.31 x 12 = 87.72 Watts

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Very interesting, thanks Roy. My bike seems to have a non-stock filter. At least it's not the UFI brand sold by Harper's. Gonna replace that.

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In my opinion on the V11 Sport with a plastic tank the filter should outlast the bike, All it needs is a backflush now and then.

On bikes with steel tanks the filter will plug off with rust but again a backflush will remove most of it.

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Got the ESR 510 installed tonight, with the help of my senseï. Put in a new 30a fuse holder. Holding off on the maxi fuse for now.

 

The charging is now up to 14.8-14.9 with the throttle open!!! About 12.9 at idle, with the high beam on it barely drops, maybe down to ~12.7. Knocking on wood, but that seems to have been a huge success.

 

So much crappy, weird hacked up wiring going on in there. Got some of it cleaned up. What a relief. Thank you all for your help.

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How did you instal the ESR510

In the usual spot

Did you extend the battery wires or the two yellows?

Did your new reg. come with a fuse?

 

http://www.electrosport.com/catalogsearch/result/?q=esr510

 

Take a look at this thread and keep a close eye on the bullet connectors

http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=18194

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"Hey, man, your thread is only on Page 5! You can't rest now!"

 

Hah!!! Yes. I think maybe I should mark this as "solved". At least for now :grin:

 

"How did you instal the ESR510 - In the usual spot?"

 

Yes, on the bracket where the stock one lived. Grounded it to the timing cover.

 

"Did you extend the battery wires or the two yellows?"

 

Extended the battery wire with slightly heavier gauge wire than what was provided.

 

"Did your new reg. come with a fuse?"

 

Yes, came with a fuse, but we cut the fuse holder off and replaced with another one that has heavier wires. Located it right next tot he battery terminal under the seat.

 

"keep a close eye on the bullet connectors"

 

The POs replaced the bullet connectors with spades, so we removed the bullet connectors from the r/r and crimped on male spades.

 

POs did some really weird stuff, including running a line directly from the battery (the one I thought was somehow related to the turn signals) through a headlight relay and into the old r/r. We cut all of that out.

 

As if by magic, my high beam idiot light is working again. :luigi:

 

Thanks again for all the help guys. You rock :notworthy:

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  • 9 months later...

Interesting. Could be a good solution. Since replacing my r/r and cleaning up all the main wires, my bike is pumping out plenty of juice, but it's good to know there's an upgrade out there. Might be a good idea to just buy it and have it on hand. I've noticed more and more aftermarket items for the V11 no longer being available, with the manufacturers discontinuing their products.

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  • 1 year later...

I just talked to EME about this, and they said the High Output stator is the same output as the factory stator. Basically, I wouldn't gain anything, and I would just spend money for the same result. 

Here's the link to the HO stator. http://www.euromotoelectrics.com/product-p/duc-statoredl.htm\

Ken

 

 

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