sp838 Posted October 25, 2013 Author Share Posted October 25, 2013 Just read this on the Powerlet website: "A dirty fuel filter can cause the fuel pump to use 120 watts, 60 more than normal. A dirty fuel filter is a common cause for a voltage regulator to fail on a fuel-injected bike." http://www.powerlet.com/learningCenter/excessCapacity Very interesting. Anyone have any direct experience with this? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kiwi_Roy Posted October 26, 2013 Share Posted October 26, 2013 Just read this on the Powerlet website: "A dirty fuel filter can cause the fuel pump to use 120 watts, 60 more than normal. A dirty fuel filter is a common cause for a voltage regulator to fail on a fuel-injected bike." http://www.powerlet.com/learningCenter/excessCapacity Very interesting. Anyone have any direct experience with this? There might be something in it, the pump sure makes a racket. It develops a lot more pressure and relieves through an internal relief valve. When I get a chance I will simulate a plugged filter and take a reading. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
docc Posted October 26, 2013 Share Posted October 26, 2013 I am surprised their table of common operating loads states electronic ignition draws 50 watts. Is it really that high? And the computer 25 watts? Seems high, but I have no way of knowing. (These are both separate from the 60 watts they claim for the fuel pump.) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sp838 Posted October 27, 2013 Author Share Posted October 27, 2013 Well, I have no idea if / when mine was ever replaced by the POs, so gonna pop a fresh one in there. K_Roy, would love to know the results of such a test, would be interesting to know if this could be a potential issue for the r/r's general health. docc, granted I know next to nothing on the subject, those numbers seem high to me too. Maybe they are intentionally over stating the operational loads in order to discourage people from going crazy adding accessories and then complaining when they don't work? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kiwi_Roy Posted October 28, 2013 Share Posted October 28, 2013 K_Roy, would love to know the results of such a test, would be interesting to know if this could be a potential issue for the r/r's general health. Ok, I just did a test on the ECU and fuel pump While priming the load is 3.82 Amps After the pump stops the current drops to 190 mA So from simple subtraction the pump is drawing just a tad over 3.6 Amps Simulating a blocked filter is easy, all you have to do is pinch off the return to the tank, this forces the pump to relieve internally as it does with a blocked filter. The current with a complete blockage rises to ~ 7.5 Amps, more than double the normal. A couple of times the pump actually stalled drawing just over 8 Amps In Watts Normal 3.6 x 12 = 36 Watts Blocked 7.31 x 12 = 87.72 Watts Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sp838 Posted October 29, 2013 Author Share Posted October 29, 2013 Very interesting, thanks Roy. My bike seems to have a non-stock filter. At least it's not the UFI brand sold by Harper's. Gonna replace that. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
docc Posted October 29, 2013 Share Posted October 29, 2013 I recall my stock fuel filter was Weber. WIX is currently listing a filter for the V11 application. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kiwi_Roy Posted October 30, 2013 Share Posted October 30, 2013 In my opinion on the V11 Sport with a plastic tank the filter should outlast the bike, All it needs is a backflush now and then. On bikes with steel tanks the filter will plug off with rust but again a backflush will remove most of it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sp838 Posted October 30, 2013 Author Share Posted October 30, 2013 Got the ESR 510 installed tonight, with the help of my senseï. Put in a new 30a fuse holder. Holding off on the maxi fuse for now. The charging is now up to 14.8-14.9 with the throttle open!!! About 12.9 at idle, with the high beam on it barely drops, maybe down to ~12.7. Knocking on wood, but that seems to have been a huge success. So much crappy, weird hacked up wiring going on in there. Got some of it cleaned up. What a relief. Thank you all for your help. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
docc Posted October 30, 2013 Share Posted October 30, 2013 Hey, man, your thread is only on Page 5! You can't rest now! 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kiwi_Roy Posted October 30, 2013 Share Posted October 30, 2013 How did you instal the ESR510 In the usual spot Did you extend the battery wires or the two yellows? Did your new reg. come with a fuse? http://www.electrosport.com/catalogsearch/result/?q=esr510 Take a look at this thread and keep a close eye on the bullet connectors http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=18194 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sp838 Posted October 30, 2013 Author Share Posted October 30, 2013 "Hey, man, your thread is only on Page 5! You can't rest now!" Hah!!! Yes. I think maybe I should mark this as "solved". At least for now "How did you instal the ESR510 - In the usual spot?" Yes, on the bracket where the stock one lived. Grounded it to the timing cover. "Did you extend the battery wires or the two yellows?" Extended the battery wire with slightly heavier gauge wire than what was provided. "Did your new reg. come with a fuse?" Yes, came with a fuse, but we cut the fuse holder off and replaced with another one that has heavier wires. Located it right next tot he battery terminal under the seat. "keep a close eye on the bullet connectors" The POs replaced the bullet connectors with spades, so we removed the bullet connectors from the r/r and crimped on male spades. POs did some really weird stuff, including running a line directly from the battery (the one I thought was somehow related to the turn signals) through a headlight relay and into the old r/r. We cut all of that out. As if by magic, my high beam idiot light is working again. Thanks again for all the help guys. You rock Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
moto fugazzi Posted August 26, 2014 Share Posted August 26, 2014 I found this the other day: http://www.guzzitech.com/store/product/eme-h-o-charging-system-upgrade/ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sp838 Posted August 26, 2014 Author Share Posted August 26, 2014 Interesting. Could be a good solution. Since replacing my r/r and cleaning up all the main wires, my bike is pumping out plenty of juice, but it's good to know there's an upgrade out there. Might be a good idea to just buy it and have it on hand. I've noticed more and more aftermarket items for the V11 no longer being available, with the manufacturers discontinuing their products. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
moto fugazzi Posted August 29, 2015 Share Posted August 29, 2015 I just talked to EME about this, and they said the High Output stator is the same output as the factory stator. Basically, I wouldn't gain anything, and I would just spend money for the same result. Here's the link to the HO stator. http://www.euromotoelectrics.com/product-p/duc-statoredl.htm\ Ken Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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