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Posted

 

 

 

Docc,

 before you tear it down , you should add a dye to the engine oil . Ride it for a while .... then tear it down . You can the use a UV light to see exactly where the oil leak is coming from.

Roger that. Good plan. Thanks!

 

I put 1/2 bottle of UV dye in my bike a few months back in order to locate the leak. The dye isn't showing up through the bell housing hole. I was hoping that the leak was from the gasket above the oil pan, but it isn't. Maybe I just don't have enough dye in there, or perhaps it's already stained the inside of the bell housing as it leaks down through to the vent hole.

 

Feel free to merge the threads, or delete mine, as they seem to be fairly similar. I'll post findings as my bike gets taken apart. I'd do it myself if there was any chance of the temps getting back into the 40's in the next few months. Probably won't get back into the 70's for at least 4 months here.

Ken

Are you using a  UV light & glasses (w/the dye) to find this leak ?

 

Yes. It sure shows up easily where I spilled some at the oil filler hole. I bought the complete kit from NAPA.

Ken

Posted

HAHA! I was waiting to see what YOU found! :rolleyes:

 

Now I'm making a list of everything a properly fettled 89,000 mile V11 Sport ought to have on a winter tear down . . .

 

Ken, I know you started another thread on your leak, but what say we combine results? (I bet we won't have the last two wet weep holes on the planet . . . )

I had exact same deposits of oil and it drove me mad for a number of weeks. I replaced upper and lower sump gaskets to no avail, and spent ages sniffing it to establish whether it was gearbox oil (I have given that up now :)) . Turned out there was a split in the oil hose (the thick black rubber breather hose between the cylinders) as Mr Roper diagnosed. It was difficult to see the split until I pulled it. I couldn't work out how the oil migrated to some of the places it did but I guess the wind swirls around the engine in interesting ways. There was enough oil leaking for a few drips on the ground each time I parked up. Once fixed no more probs. Good luck !

Posted

The vent hose is so nefarious (and so old on this bike) that I suppose I should certainly replace it and watch the leak for a time before bursting the bike to bits . . .

  • Like 1
  • 1 month later...
Posted

Anything ever come to light on this? I know you guys north of the "Sun Belt" are in no big rush to get the bikes back on the road yet, but I was just curious....

Posted

Admittedly, I've been putting this off. It has been necessary to devote some proper attention to the Beer Thread since, apparently, Helio-Jim only quaffs during Advent . . . :whistle:

 

My plan for February is to remove the tank and the tail section to change the vent hose and finally weld my broken left exhaust/pannier hanger. I'm hoping to do this without removing the entire rear seat sub-frame. :bbblll:

 

EDIT (February 28, 2014): Had to pull off 3/4 of the wiring harness and remove the entire rear subframe to weld it safely. Sheesh - no wonder I put this off over three years!

 

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  • 1 month later...
Posted

On the slippery slope now. Tank off, fished out the vent tube. I was hoping to find it in worse shape! I'll pick up the Ford heater hose tomorrow and post reference numbers for Gates and a detailed fitting.

 

Meanwhile, deeper to find the wetness!

 

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Posted

Pretty fresh and wet around the distributor blanking plate. Never had it off, what's under there?

 

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Posted

Oh. That's what's under there: a clapped out, 89,000 mile square-section, leaky O-ring!

 

Must it be Viton to replace?

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Posted

No..... you should be able to match it up at a good auto parts store or industrial equipment store . When you reinstall , put a smear of silicone sealant around the flat portion of the block-off to aid in sealing .

Posted

Gates 18912 (cross referenced from the Goodyear 63318) heater hose was about $40. Yet, my auto parts guy has no confidence it will hold up to the oil exposure. How big of a concern is that?

 

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  • Like 1
Posted

I can send you a pic of a heater hose that has been exposed to oil ..... It expands to about 2 Xs the diameter and gets very sticky..IDK how long this line/hose will last.

  • Thanks 1
Posted

So, this whole idea that we can cut down a heater hose for the Crankcase vent return line is bunk?

Posted

That has been my experience.... rubber is for petroleum or coolant and sometimes both....unfortunately you need to find a hose that will work with petroleum or buy the factory ( crummy) vent hose.... the hose you have might last a year or two .

  • Like 1

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