Bell Housing Leak

[docc]

So, best if the leak is pressurized? I don't suppose those bolt holes are, but could make for a good "back-up" seal.

[gstallons]

I replaced my vent pipe ( rubber hose ) and no check valve was in the hose .

[docc]

Getting the flange out is not such a problem . . .

 

 

"If we don't have the tools, we'll make them . . ." 

[docc]

But getting the rear main seal out is awful. Even with the flange out. I can't imagine trying to get the rear main seal out without taking the flange out.

 

I hate pulling seals.

[docc]

Josh said, "Get clinical."

 

Cleaned up the gasket surfaces (green ScotchBrite is amazing!), cleaned out the two nefarious bottom through holes with Nylon round brush and CRC Electronics Cleaner, cleaned and prepped the cam bung + JB Weld. The crankcase vent gasket (upper right) was awful to get off.

 

Sponge count = 7

[Chuck]

 

 

Getting the flange out is not such a problem . . .

"normally" that's true.  Get the wrong tolerance stack up during manufacture, though, and you'll sing a different tune. 

[docc]

 

 

 

Getting the flange out is not such a problem . . .

"normally" that's true.  Get the wrong tolerance stack up during manufacture, though, and you'll sing a different tune. 

 

Yeah, and it's not back in yet. Send me the luck for that! I read up in Dave Richardsonn's Guzziology on the matter. He has some good advice. Which led me to this:

[Chuck]

If you didn't have any problem getting it out, you won't have a problem getting it in. Just use a couple of long bolts for alignment.. you won't turn it after it's (gently) tapped home.

[docc]

I like the longer, alignment bolts idea.

 

Next to prep gaskets (to grease, oil, leave dry, use a gasket sealant, etc. . .), and correctly seat shaft seals.

 

I still need to get the two shaft seals out of the gearbox, but I'm waiting for adult supervision for that . . .

[gstallons]

I love Hylomar on gaskets . If you EVER need to remove , they come off looking like new . And yes the alignment bolts w/heads cut off is the only way to go .

[docc]

Hylomar on both surfaces of both gaskets (main bearing housing/"flange" and crankcase vent)?

[Chuck]

Both surfaces might be a little overkill..

[docc]

Dunno, I just don't want the D#$% thing to leak when it's back together. There are eight leak sources in that space. Unless you count both sides of the gaskets and the inner and outer seal surfaces (but those are the things of restless sleep and chronic epizootics ).

 

Could not find Hylomar locally, even though  I swore to the parts guys I was working on a Rolls-Royce jet aircraft engine.

 

Best I could find is VersaChem Type 2 "non-hardening/ pliable" gasket sealant.

 

Also for "threaded connections." Better this or my plumber's Teflon tape for the two nefarious leaky bolts?

[Scud]

Permatex makes a blue gasket sealer and they even print on the package something like "compare to Hylomar blue." I used that on both surfaces of a timing cover gasket - no leaks so far.

[gstallons]

You can get a non hardening teflon sealant @ NAPA . I will go outside and try to find a part # .  True Hylomar is difficult to find . Amazon , if none of the Rolls Royce dealers in your area stock it .  Order some for down the road .  

 If it were me , I would use Loctite 515 in place of the gasket . It is an anaerobic sealer and you can use it alone or with a gasket.