sp838 Posted October 29, 2013 Posted October 29, 2013 Anyone have any tips as to how to most easily remove the battery ground wire? What is the minimum amount of stuff that needs to be disassembled in order to get to where it is attached to the bike? I've followed it back to behind the seat lock, where it disappears into a bunch of other stuff. Mine was cut at some point and spliced back together, I want to replace it with a fresh wire tonight. Any suggestions as to how to do this as efficiently as possible wold be greatly appreciated. Thanks!
docc Posted October 29, 2013 Posted October 29, 2013 It looks to me like you could fish it along the loom where it follows the frame with out taking the airbox off.
Kiwi_Roy Posted October 30, 2013 Posted October 30, 2013 I would find a handy bolt on the engine or gearbox to ground it too, the seat lock location is stupid IMHO. Aluminium is a better conductor than steel any day of the week Also the ground from the regulator or headlight area should not run directly to the battery terminal, they should also terminate on the engine or gearbox separate from the main ground. All current should run back to negative through the main ground It's ok for the ECU to be wired back to the battery because it's not grounded elsewhere. As one owner found out recently it's not a good idea to have an alternate path for the starter motor return. I know this is not what's shown on the schematics. 1
sp838 Posted October 30, 2013 Author Posted October 30, 2013 Found the attachment point right behind the seat lock, was actually pretty easy to find. Holy Moses is it in sh*te condition. Didn't have long enough wire to replace it tonight, will do it at the end of the week. Just re-wrapped it with fresh electrical tape in the meantime. Bike will be so much happier with a real ground wire.
docc Posted October 30, 2013 Posted October 30, 2013 Someone cut the ground wire apart and glopped it back together? Too strange. Your bike will love you for a solid ground path! Just to clarify, my battery ground bolts to the gearbox behind the seat lock, not to the seat lock. If anyone's ground strap is under the seat lock bolt, it's surely a good idea to move it an inch to the nearest gearbox bolt.
gstallons Posted October 30, 2013 Posted October 30, 2013 The ground cable should attach to the gearbox between the seat lock and transmission vent. You should use a shakeproof washer between the cable and gearbox .
sp838 Posted October 30, 2013 Author Posted October 30, 2013 Yes, that is what I meant. The wire is attached to the gearbox case on a bolt located directly behind the lock. The bike will certainly be happier once that above pictured monstrosity is taken out of service. Is it also worthwhile to ground from the case to the frame?
docc Posted October 30, 2013 Posted October 30, 2013 . Is it also worthwhile to ground from the case to the frame? Yes, although I found it easiest from the timing chest (where my regulator is grounded) to the fuel pump mount which also gathers up my lights and horns. 1
Kiwi_Roy Posted October 31, 2013 Posted October 31, 2013 The ground cable should attach to the gearbox between the seat lock and transmission vent. You should use a shakeproof washer between the cable and gearbox . Yes, that is what I meant. The wire is attached to the gearbox case on a bolt located directly behind the lock. The bike will certainly be happier once that above pictured monstrosity is taken out of service. Is it also worthwhile to ground from the case to the frame? I just took a look at mine,the ground is still where I found it sandwiched between the bracket that holds the seat lock and the gearbox, making contact with the Alminium of the box, it all looks nice and neat. There's only one problem, for some reason the bolt that holds the bracket on can work loose, mine did and I just tightened it up without thinking, I don't recall how I came to find it loose, probably bad starting. If you are going to leave it there as Gstallons says for goodness sake make sure it won't ever work loose, If it does you may end up with a much larger problem http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=18217&hl= As a result of a loose main ground Czakky's loom sustained major damage when the starter current seeking another way back to the battery negative found a path through the regulator ground wire. Slightly off topic this same scenario has caused many house fires when the neutral wire becomes disconnected and the current seeks a different path through the grounding system.
docc Posted October 31, 2013 Posted October 31, 2013 Kiwi_Roy, that grounding point makes me suspect that someone had your bike apart and, upon reassembly, moved the ground to that point under the seat lock. Seems like it would be worth putting it back where it belongs on the gearbox.
gstallons Posted October 31, 2013 Posted October 31, 2013 Yes, that is what I meant. The wire is attached to the gearbox case on a bolt located directly behind the lock. The bike will certainly be happier once that above pictured monstrosity is taken out of service. Is it also worthwhile to ground from the case to the frame? If it will make you feel better . Install all the grounds you want .
czakky Posted October 31, 2013 Posted October 31, 2013 I would find a handy bolt on the engine or gearbox to ground it too, the seat lock location is stupid IMHO. Aluminium is a better conductor than steel any day of the week Also the ground from the regulator or headlight area should not run directly to the battery terminal, they should also terminate on the engine or gearbox separate from the main ground. All current should run back to negative through the main ground It's ok for the ECU to be wired back to the battery because it's not grounded elsewhere. As one owner found out recently it's not a good idea to have an alternate path for the starter motor return. I know this is not what's shown on the schematics. uuuuh yeah, I've been watching this thread. Healthy Ground is a good ground.
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