czakky Posted January 4, 2014 Author Posted January 4, 2014 Cable? No I haven't messed with the connection, there doesn't appear to be any o-ring in the schematics. Would a bit of Teflon tape be a bad idea?
docc Posted January 4, 2014 Posted January 4, 2014 On 1/3/2014 at 5:25 PM, czakky said: so I'm pretty sure I've got a timing cover leak. After trying the aerosol foot powder trick a couple times. But now I think I've got either a clutch slave cylinder leak or a cable leak?? not sure which. The strange thing is that I never notice any fluid missing, yet I can find fluid all the way to the trans. drain plug. I've never felt any difference in lever feel at the clutch either. Is it possible that I have a hydraulic leak? Sorry, I picked up "cable" from this post. Can you you get a side lit picture from behind the side plate which would show more of the likely leak candidates?
czakky Posted January 4, 2014 Author Posted January 4, 2014 My fault. I guess I forget my own vernacular. The halogens will be warmed up and I will forget everything Hitchcock taught me when I take a look tomorrow ....
czakky Posted January 5, 2014 Author Posted January 5, 2014 I'm an idiot, first of all. Once again as per Docc's suggestion there was simply a loose connection there at the line. Could of sworn I checked that... But that was the minor and new leak. Seems like my leak that has been hard to track is coming from the upper sump gasket and leaking back slowly. Might be my sign to get one of them new fangled Roper slopers.
czakky Posted January 18, 2014 Author Posted January 18, 2014 Got that upper sump gasket in and no leaks out back anymore. Woohoo! Now onto the timing cover leak.... Got stuck on that 24mm nut on the crank shaft. I tried the rear brake in a high gear couldn't budge it, tried a screwdriver through the peephole and started marring the case a little. Then I remembered a trick I used to replace a centrifugal clutch where you use a penny between the gears (as copper is soft) to stop the rotation. Pulled out a penny to see if it was large enough to not slip in the hole....... Well let me tell you it's not! So now my dumba** has to figure a way to get that out. I stepped away for a minute and plodded forward removing the timing cover. Next step, remove frame stay bolts one craftsmen 3/8 drive socket wrench later, nothing. One snap-on 1/4 drive, nothing. Okay a little carefully placed heat and a 1/4 drive craftsmen socket a good bite on the bolt with all my strength.... Yup guzzi's turn to fail, the bolt head stripped. Gotta laugh at myself, I guess fotoguzzi was right with letting the bugger leak a little.
czakky Posted January 20, 2014 Author Posted January 20, 2014 sorry it took me so long, here's my bane
docc Posted January 21, 2014 Posted January 21, 2014 Ok, so that looks like the left front sub-frame mount to the timing chest. (czakky, you take the most closest uppest pics I've even seen!) Now, Ladies and Gentlemen: gstallons to the rescue!
czakky Posted January 21, 2014 Author Posted January 21, 2014 Haha, sorry I guess I figured he wanted to see the damage
docc Posted January 21, 2014 Posted January 21, 2014 Alright. So, you motivated me to pull mine and wire brush them and apply a fresh dose of copper anti-seize. They were dryer and more corroded than I expected! Thanks for reminder!
gstallons Posted January 21, 2014 Posted January 21, 2014 I hope you meant 1/2'' drive instead of 1/4" drive ratchet ? A 3/8" Allen head is smaller than a 10mm Allen head ... too bad . A T55 Torx is too small to help also. Are you using a GOOD quality socket on this bolt ? If you have a heat gun , you can apply heat to this fastener head for about 15 min. & then use a breaker bar and proper length extension to get away from the exhaust pipe. Push in against the fastener while someone else holds the bike (so it will not fall over & leave you greatly disappointed) so you will not push it over. I assume you are turning this fastener CCW ?
czakky Posted January 21, 2014 Author Posted January 21, 2014 No its definitely 1/4" drive, as that is what the allen bits/sockets are. I broke the ratchet mechanism on a 3/8" drive though. Also a 3/8"f - 1/4"m reducer also. So the bits/sockets are not the weak point. I will try to get a little more aggressive with the heat (didn't want to mess up the frame powder coating). Yes I am CCW on these... I think this bike was sitting outside for sometime before I had it so these bolts are just corroded on I'm guessing. Also I had a jack under the sump trying to take some of the weight off the bolt to no avail. Anyway I'll probably try this again and if I can't get it I guess i'll have an oily, flaky, bubbly, peeling, engine case.... Oh well. Thanks for the help once again guys.
gstallons Posted January 21, 2014 Posted January 21, 2014 This bolt torques to about 55 ft lbs so you need to use a 3/8" or 1/2" in. drive tool on this. along w/a 3/8" drive socket. Any good name brand tool is good. SnapOn , Craftsman , etc...
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