Rear drive needle bearing and swing arm restoration

[Bjorn]

The swing arm bearings are out the first one took a bit more time due to figuring it all out. Second one was out in 15 min. Here is how I did it.

First I welded the M16 bolt to the inner race. You need to weld it all the way round. First try was with just 3 welds and it broke.


I made a bushing with an inner diameter of around 48 mm (bearing =47mm). I drilled a hole in a piece of stock where the bolt goes through. And squared off the top of the bolt in order to fit a wrench.





Now you can start to turn the nut down. One thing i learned is you should and lube to the bolt threads! My firt bolt almost seized.

And here is our swing arm bearing



Now its time to get the swing arm sandblasted and coated.

[bikelee]

Nice job !! Real slick.

 

Leon

[luhbo]

Yes, and some slick welding, too!

 

Hubert

[AndyH]

Top job! Congrats! Will definitely try this at home Kids!

 

PS. I vote for this to be in the 'How To' section, Admins!

[docc]

I set a new topic in How To and linked back to the main post. Hope that helps with searches later.

 

Swing arm bearing removal in How To

[Bjorn]

The swing arm is of to the sandblaster/powdercoater

 

I was wandering if anyone has experience with the prescribed method of reassembling the bevelbox? The manual states something about the ''contact impression check'' between the crownwheel and pinion. Although I understand the purpose of this, I cannot figure out how to do this. The manual states something about a tool to centre the crownwheel. anyone ever tried this?

 

I just put the bevelbox back together, and noticed by turning the pinion by hand, I can ''feel'' the gears interlocking.  Although this is a feeling and it is not described in any manual, i thought that it should rotate in such a way that i could not feel this cyclic motion. If i unscrew the 8 bolt by just half a turn, i dont feel it anymore.

 

Can anyone shine some light on this

[luhbo]

As long as you didn't change any parts, sealings and so on, there should be no difference to before. I see a chance that once you get some load on the pinion on the first meters this spring the reaction forces will properly reseat gear and pinion. Mount the cover properly and then try to bounce down (or out) the big wheel (head over, without doing damage to the alu parts), then 'feel' again. 

 

Hubert

[Bjorn]

Du bist schnell

 

Good thinking! With the ''first meters'' do you mean, reassemble the bike and ride some? Because im confused by the sentence:

 

Mount the cover properly and then try to bounce down (or out) the big wheel (head over, without doing damage to the alu parts), then 'feel' again. 

 

Hubert

 

Is the big wheel the crown wheel (gear)?

 

To bad i did not pay attention to the ''feeling'' before i took it apart. One last thing i noticed is the removal and fitting of the cover with crownwheel to the box with pinion is quite a snug fit. A rubber hammer (handled with love) was needed to get it together. Cant really see why though, only one O-ring, seal and needle bearing.

[luhbo]

Du bist schnell

 

 

Well, that's not the Quiz section, is it?

 

When you close the cover you're pushing the crown wheel against the pinion. Normaly this wheel is seated to the other side, to the cover. So turn around the enddrive and bounce it on the workbench so that this heavy gear will make its way back to where it's supposed to be sitting.

 

Hubert

[Bjorn]

Your tip makes sense. I reassembled the box and hit it on the bench (hard). No feelable difference. There is no backlash between the gears, none. The manual states 0,10-0,15mm however not how or where to Measure this, quite useless.

 

It all annoys me a bit. Maybe everthing is OK at the moment, but without any experience on this I simply cant judge it. Not without measuring it in some way.

[luhbo]

Go again through all the steps/actions you made and reflect how they could have affected the stack of parts. You didn't forget any possible washers between housing and cover? No new gasket?

 

Look for pos. 25

 

 

Hubert

[gstallons]

When you reassemble this unit....you should be able to feel clearance in the left to right rotation of the pinion shaft. If there is no clearance , you have problems !

[Bjorn]

I did not forget shim ''25''. After cleaning, i measured it at 1,0mm

 

 

When you reassemble this unit....you should be able to feel clearance in the left to right rotation of the pinion shaft. If there is no clearance , you have problems !

 

This is exactly what the manual ''tries'' to describe. Only fogetting to describe it measureable....

I do not feel any clearance when i move from left to right rotation. This is why i would like to do a ''contact impression check'' to verify my observations.

 

On the other hand, the crownwheel does not show any signs of pitting, nor does the pinion (see pictures on the previous pages).

[luhbo]

Part 19 probably also is a shim. Maybe the whole unit wasn't correctly shimmed right from the beginning. The procedure itself isn't that difficult, the mounting/dismounting of the pinion is. Making the tools yourself is doable according to the other pictures you took.

 

Have fun

 

Hubert

[Bjorn]

Sounds plausible. Cant imagen the surface of the gears look like mine after 40.000km of incorrect clearances.

 

I just called TLM in holland. One of the mechanics i spoke to told me the crownwheel may not be seated far enough into the carrier. His sugestion was to disassemble and hit the crownwheel with a rubber hammer to seat it fully into the carrier.

as this picture demonstrates:

 

However, i would suspect the assembly of the crownwheel onto the pinion would already force the crownwheel towards the carrier...

 

And I asked him about this ''contact impression check'', he said they only use it after you replace a pinion/crownwheel.