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Posted

If you are going to buy new rotors.......make sure you get cast iron rotors.  They are 10 times better than stainless steel rotors . The only down side is they oxidize , and I mean oxidize .

Posted

Yo, g: stop speaking in code. You mean "RUST!" :grin:

Posted

Screw it guys, you've convinced me. I'm going to follow GuzziMoto's suggestion and just remove the whole damn thing. I never use the rear brake anyway, that's for Harley riders. (I'll leave the switch so I pass inspection. )

Posted

Yo, g: stop speaking in code. You mean "RUST!

Well.........like battery acid on clean metal .

Posted

Screw it guys, you've convinced me. I'm going to follow GuzziMoto's suggestion and just remove the whole damn thing. I never use the rear brake anyway, that's for Harley riders. (I'll leave the switch so I pass inspection. )

Damn straight. Brakes only slow you down anyway.

Please don't mistake any doubts I express for in any way saying don't spend money on your Guzzi. As long as you can afford it (and even sometimes when you really can't) do as much to your Guzzi to make it yours as you can.

Titanium is cool. Will you feel a difference? probably not. But it is still cool to have bolts, or even an axle, made out of Ti.

I also agree that iron discs are better, but that is mainly for the front discs. At the rear, hell, you could almost use aluminum. Almost.

There are more than a few that have machined their rear brake disc, filling it with holes or whatever, until it is the bare minimum to stop them. It is a common racer trick as aluminum or titanium discs are typically not allowed. But for street use a titanium disc would be awesome. How well would it work? Hell, who cares. Think how light that would be.

If you have not already done so, more than a few have used a Lithium battery. I have one one my Griso. Can I feel the difference? No. But I know it weighs less and it seems to work. The first Lithium battery I used did not work out so well. It did not have the amps to start the bike unless it was warm. The second one, Ballistic, seems to work better.

My dream is to build an aluminum frame for my Daytona. Easy to dream, hard to pull off.

 

Measuring the bits you take off compared to the lighter bits you replace them with is key. It serves two purposes, it lets you tell us all how much weight you have saved and it is the main way you will know your 500 lb Guzzi is only 490 lbs. Hard to feel a 2% reduction in weight. But go for it.

Posted

"Please don't mistake any doubts I express for in any way saying don't spend money on your Guzzi. As long as you can afford it (and even sometimes when you really can't) do as much to your Guzzi to make it yours as you can."

 

 

You speak my language.

 

Found this on Stein-Dinse, shows the rear rotor weights a wee bit over three pounds. I'll take a one pound savings. Not huge, but not altogether insignificant either. Already got the Ti bolts to replace the stock ones too.

image.jpg

Posted

If you haven't already looked at this kind of stuff, check out what some are doing.

http://www.svrider.com/forum/showthread.php?t=137588

http://www.speedysgarage.net/hondacbr1000rrweb/1000RR_mods/1000RR_lightenedrearrotor/lightenedrearrotor.htm

 

The first link is awesomely trick. The other is more like what anyone can do.

 

It is funny if you read all the comments, even in the realm of sportbike guys there are still many who don't get it and get all worked up about what others are doing even if they have no direct knowledge or experience with what they are talking about. Kinda reminds me of HatchetWacker.

Posted

That first example looks amazing. Maybe a little more aggressive than what I had in mind, but hey, why not.

Posted

 


EBC makes a direct bolt on rear rotor, model number is MD692C. I just spoke with the their sales rep, he laughed when he looked it up. Said they have never sold a single one of these in the US.

 

Maybe set up a group buy for all those who think reducing 1# of rotational mass is worth the $? If EBC has never sold any stateside, perhaps we could make the point that offering them to the participants of a V11LM group buy at say, wholesale + 10% isn't in fact competing with any of their vendors? Find out how many they're sitting on & clean'em out of the warehouse: it's win-win.

 

Yes, without a doubt it would be better if the V11 had a lighter rear wheel, but like you said, little things add up...

Posted

Looks like both the EBC and the Brembo weigh 3 pounds. Maybe there is a big difference in cost?

Posted

The Galfer one is the one that weighs 2.15 lbs. I should be getting it by early next week. I'd be happy to investigate doing a group purchase. The EBC one is very affordable, cheaper than the stock one. So if you're in the market to replace your rear rotor anyway, that would be the way to go. I got the Galfer rotor off Ebay for $165, which is $20 less than the direct quote I got from them. If enough people are interested, like I said above, I'd be happy to try to put together a deal. I have now made contacts with both companies.

Posted

The Galfer rotor is interesting, if it fits. If the pads overhang the slightly smaller disc they can be trimmed, but I am not sure I want  to deal with that. I look forward to hearing how things go with the Galfer disc. I am more likely to have a stock disc lightened as I know it will work. But it is good to have options.,

Posted

I'll keep you all posted as to how these off-the-shelf options work out. Also considering machining my stock rotor like the example you showed above, it's just so cool!

Posted

If anyone is going to shelve their heavy Brembo, I'd be interested in it. I have a collection of old, heavy, well worn Guzzi parts.

 

Most people would immediately recognize them as my Sport . . . :glare:

Posted

sorry docc, I'm saving mine to machine it down until it is more air than metal ;)

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