mznyc Posted April 28, 2014 Posted April 28, 2014 You'll want to check your valve clearances and adjust if needed.Thought to be tight for US specs from factory,I go with "world spec" Raceco settings.Takes about 20m mins once you've done it once. TB-Balance throttle bodies and set A/F (air bleeds, idle setting) TPS-Throttle Position Sensor Forum is acting a little funky now but all those procedures are in the "how to" section.
jwh20 Posted April 28, 2014 Author Posted April 28, 2014 You'll want to check your valve clearances and adjust if needed.Thought to be tight for US specs from factory,I go with "world spec" Raceco settings.Takes about 20m mins once you've done it once. TB-Balance throttle bodies and set A/F (air bleeds, idle setting) TPS-Throttle Position Sensor Forum is acting a little funky now but all those procedures are in the "how to" section. Thanks, on my list also. I'm waiting for a shop manual to arrive to dive into those items. PO said the bike had been serviced at a Guzzi dealer at the first scheduled valve clearance interval. But since I'm going to have to take the cylinder covers off to replace the gaskets that are leaking, I might as well check and adjust the valves while it's open. It's got to be easier than a bucket & shim system where you have to remove the camshafts!!
mznyc Posted April 28, 2014 Posted April 28, 2014 The manual is essential, but lacking in many areas,I too come from Japanese bikes and manuals.The tutorials on the forum are more "real world" practical and in addition to the factory manual are essential to figure out the procedures. About about to do my Ducati valves for the first time,...
jwh20 Posted April 28, 2014 Author Posted April 28, 2014 The manual is essential, but lacking in many areas,I too come from Japanese bikes and manuals.The tutorials on the forum are more "real world" practical and in addition to the factory manual are essential to figure out the procedures. About about to do my Ducati valves for the first time,... I believe that is just a bit more challenging. The "desmo" system is very interesting technically but looks like a nightmare to adjust. Enjoy the fun!
Chuck Posted April 28, 2014 Posted April 28, 2014 Joe, if you have any problems.. bring it over. I can walk you through this stuff, and I have Guzzidiag for seting the TPS, along with carb sticks for setting the TBs.
Chuck Posted April 28, 2014 Posted April 28, 2014 Here's the on line shop manual.. http://thisoldtractor.com/mg_manuals/workshop_manual_v11_en.pdf
jwh20 Posted April 28, 2014 Author Posted April 28, 2014 Joe, if you have any problems.. bring it over. I can walk you through this stuff, and I have Guzzidiag for seting the TPS, along with carb sticks for setting the TBs. How could I possibly refuse such an offer? Absolutely we'll setup a "date" and get together.
Chuck Posted April 28, 2014 Posted April 28, 2014 Joe, if you have any problems.. bring it over. I can walk you through this stuff, and I have Guzzidiag for seting the TPS, along with carb sticks for setting the TBs. How could I possibly refuse such an offer? Absolutely we'll setup a "date" and get together. Can't be this weekend, some Indiana guys are headed to Arkansas for some hooliganism.
jwh20 Posted April 29, 2014 Author Posted April 29, 2014 Can't be this weekend, some Indiana guys are headed to Arkansas for some hooliganism. Enjoy that trip and hope you have a safe ride. I've not been to Arkansas for a ride but I hear it's great! I have plenty of work to keep me busy for several weeks at least. I need to spread out the work so that I still have time to ride. My LeMans is running great right now anyway, so currently no pressing issues. Just some longer-term maintenance needs. I've got some parts on order already.
jwh20 Posted May 5, 2014 Author Posted May 5, 2014 The weather here in Central Indiana is FINALLY turning warmer. They are calling for 80's on Wednesday and this may end up being the latest 80F day on record in this area. But it was pretty nice on Saturday and I had enough parts and tools to do some maintenance work on the LeMans. I started out with engine oil and filter. That went pretty smooth but I have NEVER seen a spin-on oil filter inside an oil filled compartment. Interesting! But I got the old one out and the new one installed without any issues. The hardest thing was getting oil into the opening. I have a long thin funnel but I guess I need to get one of those flexible ones as I just couldn't get enough angle on the funnel. Next I moved to the gearbox oil and I saw that the drain plus is directly above the exhaust crossover. I didn't want a big mess there so I decided to pull the mufflers and the crossover off. That made it easy. No issues there. I also changed the rear drive oil and had the special moly additive from Harpers. I didn't want to just dump it in so I mixed it with the small amount of oil left from the gearbox and shook it up really well. That made it pour in a lot better as it's really thick stuff. The read drive only took a little more oil from the 2nd quart I bought. Lastly I turned my attention to the driveshaft grease. No problem getting at the back two zerks but the front one is elusive. I saw plenty of write ups and suggestions here but I think I'm going to just pull the swingarm and do it right and lube the swingarm pivot bearings also. Right now it has no play in the U-joints and turns quietly and smoothly and I'd like to keep it that way. I thought about just doing it on Saturday since I had a lot of the stuff apart already but it was just too nice out. So I decided to get cleaned up and go for a ride... I also need to do the air and fuel filters but I'm waiting for the fuel filter to arrive. So I've not pulled the fuel tank yet. It looks pretty clean under there except for some oil weeping around the oil line that connects to the frame.
dangerous Posted May 5, 2014 Posted May 5, 2014 The weather here in Central Indiana is FINALLY turning warmer. They are calling for 80's on Wednesday the weather here isfinally turning cooler, they are calling for -1 wednesday Hey re the oil filterpre 97 and you had to remove the sump, awesome site looking up there.
jwh20 Posted May 5, 2014 Author Posted May 5, 2014 DSC02019.JPG The weather here in Central Indiana is FINALLY turning warmer. They are calling for 80's on Wednesday the weather here isfinally turning cooler, they are calling for -1 wednesday That's what happens when you live on the bottom-side of the world. The blood rushes to your head also, doesn't it? ;-) I've never been to NZ but did have the chance to fly over it on the way to Sydney. Would love to make it back down that way again. Too many things I didn't get to do in the few days I had there.
Tom M Posted May 6, 2014 Posted May 6, 2014 It's easier to get at that front zerk fitting when the rear wheel is off for a tire change. That's a good time to bleed the clutch too. That said it's not a bad idea to pull the swingarm and check/grease those bearings. Just make sure that the yellow paint marks on the two driveshaft halves line up EXACTLY when you put it back together. That means the ujoint crosses will be aligned correctly. When I change the tranny oil I make a tray out of aluminum foil that sits on my exhaust crossover . I form one corner so it funnels the oil into the drain pan without getting any on the crossover. I find that's easier than pulling the exhaust apart 1
AndyH Posted May 6, 2014 Posted May 6, 2014 When I change the tranny oil I make a tray out of aluminum foil that sits on my exhaust crossover . I form one corner so it funnels the oil into the drain pan without getting any on the crossover. I find that's easier than pulling the exhaust apart Neat idea that. However, I've had the zorst on and off so many times recently (mainly fannying about trying to put on that centre stand for example !!,¥#%|\]!!!!, more of which in another post once I got the pics), that it all goes on and off fairly easily.
jwh20 Posted May 6, 2014 Author Posted May 6, 2014 It's easier to get at that front zerk fitting when the rear wheel is off for a tire change. That's a good time to bleed the clutch too. That said it's not a bad idea to pull the swingarm and check/grease those bearings. Just make sure that the yellow paint marks on the two driveshaft halves line up EXACTLY when you put it back together. That means the ujoint crosses will be aligned correctly. When I change the tranny oil I make a tray out of aluminum foil that sits on my exhaust crossover . I form one corner so it funnels the oil into the drain pan without getting any on the crossover. I find that's easier than pulling the exhaust apart I thought about doing something similar but I wanted to take the exhaust off anyway. There was a bunch of gunk on the insides and also a lot of road debris in the groove between the muffler hanging brackets and the muffler wall. It looked like the PO had run through some asphalt that got flung up by the rear tire and deposited in there. I can see the yellow alignment marks on the driveshaft already and they are lined up. (I read somewhere that not all V11's come from MG assembled quite right.) I don't see any indication that the swing-arm has ever been out so my guess is that the bearings need some grease. I also want to flush the clutch lines as the fluid is a bit discolored. It does look to be a lot easier to get to the clutch master with the swingarm out of the way.
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