Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

Could someone kindly confirm that this is the transmission vent?

Not easy to get to even with my stubby wrenches. I'm assuming I remove the vertical portion as opposed to what looks like a plug facing rearward. Thanks.

Attached photo should be rotated 90 degrees clockwise so vent is pointing up.

rps20140519_200342.jpg

Posted

Just noticed the photo above got rotated when uploaded. It should be rotated 90 degrees clockwise so the vent is pointing upwards

Posted

Thanks. Trying to wrench that 17mm bolt without removing the pork chop is "challenging".

Posted

Thanks and totally agree. But in this case, its just too tight to fit that little bit of extra thickness my ratcheting box wrench has.

Posted

I was thinking maybe a "crow's foot?"

 

 

Posted

Interesting thought - I don't have any crows feet, but I would be concerned using anything but a socket or box wrench that doesn't get full perimeter bite with this limited access. Ive already slightly slipped a box wrench on it.

 

Dumb question i'm sure - but is the pork chop an integral part of the frame, or just an add-on plate to carry foot controls and pegs?

I'm thinking I should remove it for good access to the vent bolt before i damage it any further. Thanks.

Posted

The side plate (pork chop) is certainly structural connecting the the rear of the spine frame to the lower gearbox mount and providing the pivot for the swing arm. Seems a shame to take it off just to get to the vent. I'll get the Sport up on the lift and have a fiddle-see.

Posted

It appears that  my (21 cm/10 inch) Gedore/Vanadium open end wrench gets a good bite angling across from the left just above the swingarm. Looks like I could make an easy swing enough to break the vent loose.

DSCN1211.JPG

Posted

Ahhh - Approach from the far side! I've been looking for a reason to buy a set of long metric wrenches (only have long SAEs from past TVR and Norton ownership).

Thanks for taking the time to help out docc - you're the best. I'm still relatively new to Guzzi ownership, and enjoying every minute thanks to fellow enthusiasts like yourself!

Posted

So I was able to remove the vent from the right side - just needed to fully remove the seat release mechanism and the case bolt with the ground wire. This allowed another 5 degrees of movement with the wrench and made it relatively easy. After a quick clean I blew threw it and no clog. Convinced that there must still be a clog somewhere, I removed the lower horizontal vent and noticed a hole in the tube. I marked the bolt head to correspond with the whole so I could be sure it would align with the hole in the bottom of the vertical vent (see photo). This may not be necessary, but it can't hurt. I then wanted to see what was inside the bore and if there were any clogged holes. The second photo is of a mirror angled into the bore. There appears to be at least one hole further in past the threading, but I couldn't really get to it. I was encouraged that there at least was some gear oil in the bore, so it was at least getting that far.

Taking her for a ride tomorrow. Will see if its still leaking from the side case and will let you know.

rps20140525_223351.jpg

rps20140525_223510.jpg

Posted

Went for a nice long ride yesterday - still leaks from the side cover. Guess it wasn't the vent after all. Will remove the starter and do some more sealing...

Posted

Sealed up the remaining penetration with Permeate High Temp Copper sealant (I know, quite lovely, but at least non-permanent), let it cure overnight, and went for a 105 mile ride. Seemed dry when I checked it at stop lights, but right after getting back and putting it on the side stand it began to weep oil. Not sure from where this time, but perhaps the perimeter seal. I'm about to throw in the towel. I'd like to first try a thicker oil - if anyone could give a recommendation for a viscosity that's thicker than factory spec but still ok, i'd much appreciate it.

rps20140602_232426.jpg

  • 3 weeks later...
Posted

Will happily be able to hit the "mark solved" button. As a last resort I changed out the gear oil and used the Red Line Heavy Soundproof gear oil. I carefully only filled up to just slightly below the mid level dot in the check window. Went for a 100 mile ride and no leaks! Even when left on its side stand. I noticed that the Red Line product has more "clinging" power than normal gear oil. It didn't seem much thicker, but it clinched to my funnel, even after 5 minutes in vertical position, it didn't drain off the surface. Must be Red Line's secret weapon.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
×
×
  • Create New...