bikelee Posted May 15, 2014 Posted May 15, 2014 The front exhaust crossover on my 2003 LeMans Rossa is loose. I was going to replace the graphite gaskets but I've read they will just blow out again. I was thinking the only way to fix it permanently was with headers from a 2001 V11 (if they will fit ), Crack- Proof headers from Guzzi-Tech (if still available ), Agostini headers ( $874 !!! ). Are there any other options I have available ? Thanks for any help ! Leon
Bjorn Posted May 15, 2014 Posted May 15, 2014 I have been here before and have two options: The first one is very easy to realize and helps to keep the graphite gasket intact and in the right position. Its very thin copper/brass you usually buy in sheets of a specific thickness. Google translates it to brass lamella. Simply cut it in narrow strips and wind it around both sides of the balance-pipe connectors. This ensures you can actually tighten the damn thing properly. I believe i wound it around 3 to 4 times round the pipe (depends on the thickness). Second option involves welding. even though the above works, I just removed the whole thing. I know it does benefit performance (a bit) but i really didnt like the design of the couplings . Just cut the balance pipe off and you are left with a small hole, weld it shut: and finally, a symbolic goodbye...
jwh20 Posted May 15, 2014 Posted May 15, 2014 I've wondered what the purpose for that balance pipe is. My 2002 LeMans does not have one and I see that is actually a GOOD thing from your "symbolic goodbye" shown above.
docc Posted May 15, 2014 Posted May 15, 2014 It is nice to see that goodbye is thrown the same in different languages . . . 1
Skeeve Posted May 21, 2014 Posted May 21, 2014 I've wondered what the purpose for that balance pipe is. My 2002 LeMans does not have one and I see that is actually a GOOD thing from your "symbolic goodbye" shown above. It has two purposes: 1st: it helps reduce the "hole" in the powerband @ ~3500 rpm. [Note I wrote "reduce" not "eliminate."] The reality is that it can't do much here anyway, & a lot of the Guzzi experts [Greg Field, et al] who'd been around before it was introduced hold unequivocally that it does so little in this regard that it isn't worth the headaches involved. 2nd [& I think more important wrt its original adoption by the factory]: it replicates the look of the [welded in] x-over in the exhaust of the original LeMans. The front x-over seems to be a source of on-going problems, and the addition of an aftermarket rear x-over and remapping seems to eliminate any need for it.
dangerous Posted May 21, 2014 Posted May 21, 2014 ahh shit, seems my post above is all ballsed up, ill try again. ok so IIRC the link pipe does help with performance, odd thing is a early engine has the link were the last of the V11's do and inbetween they have ried all sorts a positioning. bikelee... try this works mint for me. loosen all headed bolts and link pipe. gunge the link pipe wit a exhaust sealent get a rachet tie down thingie and put it around the two headers at the most forward part tighten the crap out of the ratchet tighten all bolts let sealent dry over night and or a quick run up to gain some heat for curation. remove tie down sorted till ya need to remove the cove under.
grossohc Posted May 23, 2014 Posted May 23, 2014 When i first got mine, it rattled loose after every run. All I did was slacken the headers bolts, tighten up one side and then push the pipe at the other side onto the exhaust pipe so it all looks even, tighten everything up and voila. I probably got lucky as it has never moved since.
RacerX Posted August 27, 2014 Posted August 27, 2014 Thanks for the post Guzzisti. Google landed me here since I just started reproducing the headers again for anyone interested; http://www.guzzitech.com/store/category/exhaust/v11s/ - thanks for the interest/sorry for the spam. Long time since I've checked in here. Good to see all of the familiar names.
Kiwi_Roy Posted August 27, 2014 Posted August 27, 2014 The front crossover is fugly IMO. I saw a lemans the other day it"s crossover was holding on by the last little bit of weld. Get rid of it
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