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Posted

I found mine runs better if I use the original intake rubbers as velocity stacks (you can see them in my signature) but it still runs ok with the pod filters straight on the bodies just a bit less power mid range.

 

You could spend a ton of kiwijen's money finding all the original bits and it still runs like crap, what then?

 

Hook onto the TPS wire and see what mV you get, key on but not running with the throttle closed (at idle position) and make sure it progresses smoothly from about 0.5 Volts to about 4.5 Volts as you open the throttle slowly.

 

Check that the ECU circuit is not loosing Voltage thru a loose connection or bad contact while running. An easy way to do this is wire a small lamp from the petcock fuse to chassis. Have the lamp taped to the bars where you can safely monitor it while riding,  If the bike starts to miss just make sure the lamp is still on steady.

(if a previous owner has fitted a manual petcock it probably still has the fuse)

 

With the bike running in gear, extend the side-stand, if it stops it still has the switch wired, they can be a problem.

 

Measure the ignition switch contact resistance.

 

Does it have a plastic or a metal tank?

I ask because the metal ones rust which can cause the petcock filter and main filter to plug off and starve fuel at higher revs.

Posted

 

Hook onto the TPS wire and see what mV you get, key on but not running with the throttle closed (at idle position) and make sure it progresses smoothly from about 0.5 Volts to about 4.5 Volts as you open the throttle slowly.

 

 

AND IF NOT, HOW DO YOU ADJUST?

Posted

some good info there K1 Roy... arnt all V11 tanks plastic?

I don't know.

The 98 V11 EV I bought has a metal tank, same as the Jackal, those tanks have a recessed filler cap that fills with water (it's supposed to run out a little drain pipe but that plugs with rust), when you go to fill up the trapped water runs into the tank (you don't notice this happening) the water rusts the tank which plugs off the filter.

Mine started to bog down on a hill, eventually it would barely run.

I just back flushed it on the side of the road, the rust that came out was extremely fine like mud.

A guy on the Wild Guzzi forum posted how to unblock the drain using a length of cable inner in a drill, it took all of 4 hours to get mine clear.

 

I think the spine frame bikes all have plastic tanks but it might vary in other parts of the globe.

 

I went back and added to the TPS comment

Thanks for pointing it out

Cheers

Roy

Posted

I found mine runs better if I use the original intake rubbers as velocity stacks (you can see them in my signature) but it still runs ok with the pod filters straight on the bodies just a bit less power mid range.

 

Hey Roy... (or others with pod filters) the air sencer that was in the air box... were is it now? Jens is dangling under the seat in the open atmosphere... that must stuff shit up a bit?

Posted

 

Hey Roy... (or others with pod filters) the air sencer that was in the air box... were is it now? Jens is dangling under the seat in the open atmosphere... that must stuff shit up a bit?

 

 

Yes, it might get too hot, in the airbox it was cooled by the incoming air.

I added longer wires and tied mine to the frame up at the front of the tank where it doesn't see radiated heat from the motor.

 

I sent you a PM

Posted

Hey grossohc, can you clarify which your bike is like? Dangerous showed us a photo above of his Le Mans Nero Corsa battery box, not the Cafe Sport bike he is working on for somebody. He says his buddy's Cafe does *not* look like the picture above, and all the battery tray mounting tabs are missing... So does your Cafe Sport look like the Nero Corsa photo or no? We're trying to figure out if somebody modified his friend's Cafe Sport.

Mine is exactly the same as the nero corsa and i have a pc545 oddysey battery fitted. They are all the same :whistle: (i think)

Posted

Thanks! That's what I figured, and I agree that all bikes are the same... I also know that there's a used battery tray available from TLM in Netherlands.

Posted

What's wrong with it under the tank, just leave it there

Less likely to get shorted out, besides it's the loom under the tank that smokes when the main ground gets loose.

 

fb4cd4fa-6b2c-4fa3-8638-bd35e85e7e00_zps

Posted

:unsure:  Personally, wouldn't fancy battery in amongst all the fuel plumbing.

I guess you're horrified then by an electric fuel pump mounted inside the tank submerged in fuel :)

Ciao

Posted

 

:unsure:  Personally, wouldn't fancy battery in amongst all the fuel plumbing.

I guess you're horrified then by an electric fuel pump mounted inside the tank submerged in fuel :)

Ciao

 

 

Submerged in fuel is good! Surrounded by hot swirling oxygen - Well, now we've got horror!

Posted

Yes but what to fix it to if the lugs are missing?

 

Maybe tack weld on some nuts, but we're gonna have to wait and see the details of the supposed battery box area on this one.

 

On a side note, personally I would want my battery in the proper spot on this bike...if not just for the (I assume) lower location/less top heavy.

Posted

 

:unsure:  Personally, wouldn't fancy battery in amongst all the fuel plumbing.

I guess you're horrified then by an electric fuel pump mounted inside the tank submerged in fuel :)

Ciao

 

Yea, brushes sparking away soaked in gas.

How about the fuel sensor that gets red hot if you swap the petcock and sensor plugs that will really freak you out.

Posted

no oxygen no boom, submerged in petrol is ok... and...

 

Well Jen's a bogan from way back, she likes the pod filters.. sooooo we will leave the Batt were it is and the pods, altho Id like to replace them with new ones, and NOT have the crank breather running into one (its gota mean a different fuel air mix to each pot) 

Now the weekend to work on it was to be this, but now the following, this w/e Ill try and sort mine.

 

all advice and ideas welcomed thanks, stay tuned

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