advice cafe sport

[dangerous]

 

 

Hook onto the TPS wire and see what mV you get, key on but not running with the throttle closed (at idle position) and make sure it progresses smoothly from about 0.5 Volts to about 4.5 Volts as you open the throttle slowly.

 

 

AND IF NOT, HOW DO YOU ADJUST?

 

 

 

I went back and added to the TPS comment

Thanks for pointing it out

Cheers

Roy

 

hey Roy... seems ya didnt save the "how to adjust" 

I have a bike sparkie lined up this weekend but hes not fermiler with MG, 

 

1] hook on to the tps wire???

2] how to adjust???

 

bloody awesom to here from ya, learning here as I go to

[docc]

Scroll down this thread in FAQ: TPS Setup and Throttle Balancing

 

It shows several options on measuring the TPS and discusses adjusting it.

[Kiwi_Roy]

Think of the TPS like the Volume control on an old radio it has a resistance with 0 Volts on one end and 5 Volts DC on the other.

(have you noticed your Guzzi get's louder as you grank up the volume LOL)

Attached to the throttle is a contact that starts near the zero end and slides along the resistance (in radio terms this is called a slider) toward the 5 Volt end as you open the throttle.

To start at zero mV it would have to be jambed against the stop so the engineers picked a nice round 150 mV as a starting point. At wide open throttle again it doesn't go all the way but tops out about 4.5 Volts if I recall corectly.

 

If ever you put an Ohmeter on the TPS you will find it doesn't quite meet what you would expect from a simple resistance, I suspect it has another pair of fixed resistors attached to the slider to give a default (get you home) value to the output if the sliding contact were to fail.

In theory if your TPS failed on the road ther's nothing to stop you sustituting a variable resistor in it's place and setting it to match the throttle opening, It would keep you busy in the twisties that's for sure.

 

Note:

The TPS nas a linear output, the volume control on a radio has an exponential (Log) output to match your hearing.

[dangerous]

that link above is awesome cheers docc and KR that breaks it down.

 

hey started work on the bike today, few questions, whats the conecter next to the diag comp plug?

why the hell would you put the starter button there?

damage to the plug cap cant be helping the miss firing aye?

 

[dangerous]

starter pic 

[dangerous]

plug cap 

[dangerous]

Update... went to a mates today and we checked the TPS and balanced the TB's, bote out but not by a lot, and now its running worse.

 

What we did find is a serious miss on the left side back firing through the exhaust and carb/TB reguardless of revs ie: 2000rpm to 5000rpm

tomorow Ill swap coils and try my ecu in it, any other ideas guys?

[Kiwi_Roy]

Some PO has added a start button bypassing the normal wiring, the starter solenoid draws about 40 Amps for a split second so if there's a dirty contact anywhere in the spaggetti it won't pull in

 

I just went though a miss problem on my EV, it would cut out on one cylinder if I opened the throttle too much, it turned out to be a bad HT lead

Use a multimeter to measure the resistance from cap to chassis, both sides should be roughly the same mine were 20K and open now 20K and 17K although my V11 Sport is in the Megohm range both sides are the same.

An auto wrecker might be a good bet for some new leads, a lifetime supply from an old V8

 

Has the sidestand switch been removed. if not try jumping that, an easy way is to wrap a bare wire around the two relay pins.

The ECU and it's wiring is really like a separate part of the bike I often advocate monitoring the feed to the ECU relay with a small lamp (where it says from ignition circuit) The lamp should stay on steady, never so much as a flicker. An easy point to access is the petcock fuse.

 

As far as the ECU goes both sides share a common set of sensors it's only the coils and injectors where they split.

Try this ECU in your bike also prove it's ok.

 

From the ECU plug measure the Left and right coils and injectors, that will prove the coils and wiring again both left and right should measure the same. You need a couple of small pins or a strand of wire to plug in the connector.

 

BTW, have you done a compression test try it first with closed throttle then wide open, the closed throttle will be much lower but if it's balanced properly it should be similar L & R no?

 

[dangerous]

all awesome info ta... sorted most still have an issue but it has been narrowed down, have started a new thread please follow it and help out if you can, it starts with a video I took today of the problem.

http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=18638

[kiwijen]

Took a comparison pic of under seat. . Corsa with battery.. my cafe sport without. . Starting to think the frame had been rebuilt. . They're totally different

[dangerous]

yeah... forgot about that, ok so both are 04 V11's how can or why are the sub frames so different?

 

Jen... were is your rear brake fluid kept, it seems to be missing?

[dangerous]

 

Hey grossohc, can you clarify which your bike is like? Dangerous showed us a photo above of his Le Mans Nero Corsa battery box, not the Cafe Sport bike he is working on for somebody. He says his buddy's Cafe does *not* look like the picture above, and all the battery tray mounting tabs are missing... So does your Cafe Sport look like the Nero Corsa photo or no? We're trying to figure out if somebody modified his friend's Cafe Sport.

Mine is exactly the same as the nero corsa and i have a pc545 oddysey battery fitted. They are all the same  (i think)

 

 

 

Thanks! That's what I figured, and I agree that all bikes are the same... I also know that there's a used battery tray available from TLM in Netherlands.

hey guys... as above I questioned the batary mounts missing but look the frame is way different note the tube each side of the tool kit, not in the cafe, note the relay mounts on there side in the cafe upright on mine, note the missing brake resovar... Im honestly thinking the sub frame is of a earler V11? 

of course none of this helps with the eratic backfiring.

[kiwijen]

My rear brake reservoir is on the right side attached to the frame as shown in pic

[GuzziMoto]

It looks like the one subframe has been butchered pretty good. From the pic I can't say for sure but it looks like part of the original subframe has been cut away. All V11's seem to have the same subframe. I do not know of any significant differences between older and newer. I do know that my wifes V11 is an early red frame version and its subframe looks just like the pic of your Corsa with the battery in it.

I assume someone thought it would be cool to lighten up their Guzzi, so they hacked away at the subframe removing everything they thought was not needed and moved the battery to under the tank. I hope it is still structurally sound. It does appear that they also removed the safety catches that hold the seat on.

That Guzzi looks to have been seriously hacked up, but it does not look like it is a different subframe so much as it looks like large parts of the original one were cut away. But you, being there in person, would be better able to assess the subframe then I looking at pictues.

[dangerous]

the thing is GM... if its been hacked up then its been done extreamly tidely, no signs of cutting grinding and paint looks orgional

the red frame thing, you say the subs the same, acepted... i know the red frames main frame is quite different up front thats why I wondered bout the sub? farking Guzzi