docc Posted June 4, 2014 Posted June 4, 2014 I was somehow certain the eccentric alters the travel in one direction or the other (upshift versus downshift) which is, ideally, set to be equal.
mznyc Posted June 4, 2014 Posted June 4, 2014 I was somehow certain the eccentric alters the travel in one direction or the other (upshift versus downshift) which is, ideally, set to be equal. Yes Docc,but not enough to make a bad shifting bike good,or a good shifting bike bad.
cosmo Posted June 5, 2014 Author Posted June 5, 2014 Sorry to interested folk, didn't get to put the cover back on due to gardening today, love that corn in the fall.Tomorrow hopfully with the results. mznyc I found that when the adjuster above the pawl arm was turned too far towards the pawl arm it started to interfear with the arms movement making it stick. Are you sure its for toe shifter adjustment? Maybe I misunderstood and you were refering to the screw by the shifter imput shaft. You may be correct about pawl arm over travel not causing missed gears but doesn't it seem that if your pawl arm is over traveling past the position where the roller arm drops into the proper slot your shifter will over travel also causing at the least sloppier shifting?
cosmo Posted June 9, 2014 Author Posted June 9, 2014 Sorry to anyone following this thread for disappearing. Gardens are now well under way. Who cares ! The out come... Just got done with the test ride. It hasn't shifted this tightly since I screwed things up the first time I replaced the pawl springs and touched those mysterious eccentric screws. Tight- tight- tight ! The only formula I've got is with the shifter case off the tranny. I do not have a parts manual for the proper names of the parts I'm going to try and describe. The shifter imput shaft, (shifter bolts to this part outside) is attached to (inside of case) a triangler piece with a slot in which the eccentic screw next to the shifter sits. What I did was shift back and forth slowly with the case off (you have to hold everything from snapping into place quickly, adjusting the eccentric screw while watching the clearance end to end,[upshift downshift], of the screw in that slot) . I settled for as close as I could get with equal clearance on both sides . Only did a 10 mile test., it hasn't been this close, tight, snappy, since I messed it up. If anything changes with a few more miles will let you know. Thanks to all who's imput helped. Any questions please ask.
Camn Posted June 9, 2014 Posted June 9, 2014 I did the adjusting the same way. This is what the Workshop Manual says about it: “Contrary to the previous model, the gearbox is equipped with a special adjusting eccentric “A” used to adjust gear selector hook “B” position. Gear selection will thus be improved and more accurate. Check that the area between eccentric “A” and hook “B” – marked on the drawing – is free.“
moto fugazzi Posted June 11, 2014 Posted June 11, 2014 The slotted screw better known as the eccentric adjuster,doesn't have that much effect on shifting.It is a fine tune adjustment for personal preference of where the tow shifter sits,ie;higher,lower.At it's extreme positions,up or down,a correctly working pre-selector assembly and transmission should shift just fine.Generally when you have bad shifting,missed shifts,false neutrals,..it's something else.I was getting false neutrals,replaced clutch,friction plates,all springs in the pre-selector and it still had the same symptoms.Found a used tranny,slapped the pre-selector cover from it on to my bike and voila!,she shifts perfect.The pawl spring and pawl arm if fitted with updated parts either work or break. Where is the eccentric screw? Is it on the inside or outside of the tranny? My downshifts aren't very good (a few false neutrals at times), and it may need to be adjusted. The dealer just replaced all of my clutch parts and installed a new shift return spring. Ken
docc Posted June 11, 2014 Posted June 11, 2014 The eccentric is under the acorn nut on the outside of left side plate. Moving the adjustment is only likely to help if the gearbox upshifts more cleanly than downshifts (or vice versa).
moto fugazzi Posted June 11, 2014 Posted June 11, 2014 Upshifts are nice and clean, and downshifts are sloppy. If I come to a stop in 3rd gear or higher, I can usually only downshift to one lower gear. I've been having to downshift, then let out the clutch a little, then I can down shift again, then repeat the procedure. I used to be able to get to first from any of the higher gears without issues-sometimes you don't have the luxury of downshifting properly in a panic stop situation... Can I adjust this without taking the cover off and centering it? If so, how much do you think the screw should be turned at any given time? 1/4 turn? 2 full turns? Ken
docc Posted June 11, 2014 Posted June 11, 2014 It's a little fiddly releasing the lock nut. I used a crow's foot ( I think it's 19mm) with the acorn removed. Using a series of brief test rides, you can move the slotted center screw about 1/8 turn and see how she feels. Some of the posters with more insight might say which direction would allow more pawl movement to the downshift.
Tom M Posted June 11, 2014 Posted June 11, 2014 Ken, Check to make sure your shifter isn't bottoming out on the porkchop when you're downshifting.
moto fugazzi Posted June 11, 2014 Posted June 11, 2014 Ken, Check to make sure your shifter isn't bottoming out on the porkchop when you're downshifting. That's the first thing I did, and have checked several times. There's about 1/4" clearance between the lever and the pork chop when the lever is all of the way down. Seems like upshifting takes very little movement, and downshifting takes quite a bit. Ken
mznyc Posted June 12, 2014 Posted June 12, 2014 Ken, Check to make sure your shifter isn't bottoming out on the porkchop when you're downshifting. That's the first thing I did, and have checked several times. There's about 1/4" clearance between the lever and the pork chop when the lever is all of the way down. Seems like upshifting takes very little movement, and downshifting takes quite a bit. Ken Yup that sounds like an adjustment may help.
Delman Posted November 30, 2014 Posted November 30, 2014 Hi just got a 2002 lemans on the the first ride the instrument dash came off which i replaced the mounts and all is good so today the weather was good in north jersey where i live attempted the second ride made it 2 miles from the house and the shifter got stock in the third gear, limped it back home as I said the bike is in the third the shifter can be moved up until it hits the starter cover nut and down until it hits the pork chop but no shifting action is that a symptom of a broken PAWL spring?
dangerous Posted December 1, 2014 Posted December 1, 2014 hahahaa... welcome to the life of Moto Guzzi should be a paw spring, usually you can change down but not up, possably a spring that dosent usually snap (3 springs all up) so, IMO off with the starter and off with the side cover of the gear box Funny as it is but since this thread started I have done the springs on a friends Cafe sport, a easyish op
Baldini Posted December 1, 2014 Posted December 1, 2014 Sounds like a lot of available movement on the lever. All's good with external assembly?
Recommended Posts
Create an account or sign in to comment
You need to be a member in order to leave a comment
Create an account
Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!
Register a new accountSign in
Already have an account? Sign in here.
Sign In Now