docc Posted June 19, 2014 Posted June 19, 2014 Sounds like you could use a meter with more sensitivity (like a 200 Ohm range).
Welshguzzi Posted June 20, 2014 Author Posted June 20, 2014 Borrowed a meter with a 200 ohm setting - it's telling me 0.8 ohms. I'm going to take the bike for a spin this weekend and see what happens. Any tips to get access to the ignition switch contacts would be helpful Cheers
Welshguzzi Posted June 20, 2014 Author Posted June 20, 2014 Is the neutral switch easily accessible? Would be good to eliminate that as a trouble spot
Kiwi_Roy Posted June 21, 2014 Posted June 21, 2014 Is the neutral switch easily accessible? Would be good to eliminate that as a trouble spot If you wrap a bare wire around the 30 & 87 pins of relay 3 that is an easy way to disable the interlock.
Steve S Posted June 21, 2014 Posted June 21, 2014 Is the neutral switch easily accessible? Would be good to eliminate that as a trouble spot It's under the starter Hugh. I have removed the side stand switch and wiring on both my bikes, remove the tank and follow the wires up to a connector, snip the wires and solder them together.
Kiwi_Roy Posted July 2, 2014 Posted July 2, 2014 Is the neutral switch easily accessible? Would be good to eliminate that as a trouble spot It's under the starter Hugh. I have removed the side stand switch and wiring on both my bikes, remove the tank and follow the wires up to a connector, snip the wires and solder them together.I think all the spine frame Guzzis use the Normally Closed (closed with stand up) but some models use Normally Open (open with stand up) in which case you just unplug.
Welshguzzi Posted July 3, 2014 Author Posted July 3, 2014 Thanks. Progress a bit slow as I have had so much on my plate recently - elderly parents, children, work and work. Have had a couple of conversations about the crank sensor and it looks a likely candidate. A used one arrived in the post yesterday so I'll get that fitted ASAP.
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