czakky Posted June 22, 2014 Share Posted June 22, 2014 While I'm at it looking at the wiring diagram I'm seeing this fuel solenoid (#32 on C. Allison's diagram) and I can't recall seeing this. I'm trying to track down an intermittent fuel pump groan and haven't had any luck. Also I am having trouble finding the ground for this too....? Thanks as usual. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kiwi_Roy Posted June 22, 2014 Share Posted June 22, 2014 They groan if the filter get's plugged as the internal relief lets go at about 70 psi, But you have a plastic tank so it shouldn't be that. Electric petcock not opening might have a similar effect Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
docc Posted June 22, 2014 Share Posted June 22, 2014 The #32 "electric fuel solenoid valve" is the electric (pet)cock fitted to the left underside of the tank on chin-pad tanks through 2002. Many have been removed and fitted with manual versions. If yours still has the electric (pet)cock, make sure the wires to it under the rubber boot are intact. If they (or one) become(s) broken, the fuel delivery will be obstructed. Repair the connection and secure with a dab of epoxy. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
czakky Posted June 22, 2014 Author Share Posted June 22, 2014 Nope PO had fitted with manual petcock. The "groan" has never bothered me but the other day it didn't prime at all until I toggled the kill swithch a couple times. I feel like it's a bad connection somewhere. I've gone through all the obvious connections i.e. relays, fuses, pump itself. Fuel filter is relatively new. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
docc Posted June 22, 2014 Share Posted June 22, 2014 Time to inspect and clean the run switch? And perhaps the ignition switch for good measure? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kiwi_Roy Posted June 23, 2014 Share Posted June 23, 2014 As Docc says, the grease goes hard in the switches, holds the tension off the contacts. Clean and re-lube with Vaseline, nothing else. If you still have a petcock fuse that's a great troubleshooting spot, It's just where the switches and interlocks end up before going to the ECU, If there's 12 Volts there chances are the bike will run, wink wink. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
czakky Posted June 24, 2014 Author Share Posted June 24, 2014 Its weird because besides one episode fairly recently (seemingly unrelated) ive never had running issues. The pump just groans. Anyhow i took apart the kill switch gave her a few blasts of contact cleaner even though there was no visible corrosion or dirt. A few starts and so far no annoying sound... Wish i would have done that 9 mos. ago. Once again thanks guys! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fotoguzzi Posted June 24, 2014 Share Posted June 24, 2014 Anyhow i took apart the kill switch gave her a few blasts of contact cleaner even though there was no visible corrosion or dirt. A few starts and so far no annoying sound... so you cleaned a switch and the pump got quiet? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
czakky Posted June 24, 2014 Author Share Posted June 24, 2014 Hard to say for sure as the problem is intermittent but the few times so far are good. It makes a struggling unhealthy sound when it primes. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fotoguzzi Posted June 24, 2014 Share Posted June 24, 2014 if you have a manual petcock make sure it's all the way open, could the screen inside be clogging up? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
czakky Posted June 24, 2014 Author Share Posted June 24, 2014 PO installed the manual petcock. Guess i should see if there is a screen in there. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kiwi_Roy Posted June 24, 2014 Share Posted June 24, 2014 I'm in Beijing at the moment, out in the sticks tomorrow for 3 weeks so I can't post any sketches but here's an old thread with the Test Point Layout sketch attached. Note 4 says the Ignition switch should be http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=17469&hl=%2Btest+%2Bpoint+%2Blayout I don't know if any of the spineies have the start relay (pin 30)powered through the ignition switch like lot's of other Guzzis, there the ignition switch resistance is critical, the starter solenoid would like to draw 40 Amps for just a split second, too much resistance leads to failure to pull in aka "Startus Interuptus" IMHO the V11s are the only Guzzis that got it right Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
czakky Posted July 6, 2014 Author Share Posted July 6, 2014 Been commuting lately on the Guzzi, neary a groan from the pump. Seems like the kill-switch clean must've done it. Although I'm probably due for an ignition clean up as there seems to be rash of ignition switch related issues in guzzi world lately. Still have to check the test points you sent me Roy. You don't just jump into these things Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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