disassemble ignition switch

[Chuck]

Hi, folks.. I'm trying to help out a friend with a 00 greenie. No power to F5&F6, so traced it to the 4 pin connector that comes from the ignition switch. Took off the electrical part of the switch to see if it has a broken wire/solder joint, etc. and don't want to break it.

 

Do you just push down on the three places here with all three hands to pull off the back? 

TIA

[Welshguzzi]

Aha! Somebody else with the same question. I eagerly await the replies!

[HaydnR]

I've had one apart and yes the wires were found broken. Just trying to remember how. I think i bought an aprillia rs50/125 switch from ebay as a spare. I will have a look in my photos. Pretty sure you jostle those tabs in somehow.

[Chuck]

Ok, I got it. Ground up a punch to fit and put it in the drill press to use as an arbor press. Pushed down one tab, and levered the top back. Wrapped some safety wire on it to keep that tab from reengaging, turned to the next one, and cave manned that one, too. After that, it decided to give up. Yeah, there's a broken solder joint. Kind of cheesy.. no strain relief or anything. Probably why the FAA doesn't allow soldered connections. Back together tomorrow, and it'll be good for another 14 years. 

[malik]

Just did it to my V7C (107,000k) - I also had trouble, as well as fear & trepidation, but Luke at Motociclo had no problems. He'd done it before. Probably many times.

 

The cap at the bottom DOES come off. Luke gently levered it up with a screwdriver blade, the screwdriver was then more robustly employed, from both the inside & outside, against those 3 larger white (in my case) lugs, taking care not to completely ruin the thing. Once you have one free, the others follow pretty easily.

 

My ignition lost & gained its connection when the handlebars were moved. There was evidence of mild burning on one of the contacts, and the plastic holding one of the sprung plates was mildly heat distorted, enough to impede the smooth return of the spring.

 

I opted for a new ignition, but Luke seemed to think that the plastic blocks themselves were a standard trade piece & replaceable.

 

Good luck,

 

Mal

[nobleswood]

Just did the same job myself last w/e. You've got the block apart and there's a loose wire inside. KiwiRoy had a thread with pictures showing the , in my case black & green wire loose from one of the greens, looking closely I could see burn marks by the contact. It's tight working in there but I managed to re-solder the wire which cured the indicator light & instrument lights failing. As the wire itself isn't clamped, KiwiRoy advised fabricating a bracket made from coat hanger wire to hold everything in place. Works fine so far!

[Kiwi_Roy]

 My ignition lost & gained its connection when the handlebars were moved. 

I think that's a different problem, supposedly there's some bullet connectors under the tank. Mine was acting similar, would only crank at full lock but before I investigated it fixed itself, a picture showing location of these mythical bullet connectors would be nice, my bike's half a world away at the moment.

[Chuck]

 

 My ignition lost & gained its connection when the handlebars were moved. 

I think that's a different problem, supposedly there's some bullet connectors under the tank. Mine was acting similar, would only crank at full lock but before I investigated it fixed itself, a picture showing location of these mythical bullet connectors would be nice, my bike's half a world away at the moment.

 

 

Sorry, no pix. The bullet connectors are up by the steering neck on the left side.