BAD V11 cafe sport

[dangerous]

as followed on from thread http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=18557&hl= Ill start fresh as most has been covered to date on that thread great info.

But now we have a new issue, it has been narroed down to the left side the following has been done:

valve clearance

ECU

coils

HT leads 

relays

TBS

TB ballance

 

Now as I have issues with you tube ill here is a link to a video on my facebook page, please watch it and pass on your thoughts, note the excess fuel being throughen out and when the back fire happens the shinie thing around the buterfly is actuall flame in the TB

 

https://www.facebook.com/darryl.dawson.54?ref=tn_tnmn

or

https://www.facebook.com/groups/327216784009013/

 

 

[Kiwi_Roy]

I never knew a Guzzi before with it's own Facebook page LOL.

 

I assume the compression test was ok, 150 - 160 each side. Watching the video made me wonder if the timing for LH was not a long way out firing with the inlet valve open but I have no clue why it would do that, leads crossed over?

You tried your ECU with the same results?

This ECU ran ok in your bike?

 

Make sure you have a solid 12 Volts at the ECU, a jumper to the petcock fuse will do that.

Beyond electrickery I am not much help I'm afraid.

[dangerous]

compression was, 140 left 130 right, yip tried my ecu, coils leads in it... no change

[Lucky Phil]

_{Ignition sensor?}

 

_Ciao

[kiwijen]

Just like to say.. the bike isn't bad.. just needs some tlc... you wait she's going to come out if this sweet. The potential ofa great bike is right there at our fingertips. She's going in to the mechanics on Wednesday. Definitely mechanical. . Air intake Valve... will update you once nutted out

[NZ Rider]

Hi Jen and DD,

 

Just picked up on this thread now.  For what it's worth, I rode this bike about 4 weeks before you purchased it Jen as I too was thinking of buying it.  I only took it for a quick squirt around Mt Wellington streets.  Definitely noticed the miss lower down, but it was no where near as bad as in the video clip.  Also, it went like a shower of shit above 5k, completely opposite to what you describe.  It felt much faster than the Ballabio I ended up purchasing that week.  Granted, the CS was the first Guzzi I've ever ridden, and the Ballabio only the second but both ridden on the same day.  Thought I would share for what its worth, as it could indicate a degenerating cause or at least that the bike was running somewhat okay recently.

 

Keen to see how you progress with getting the bike sorted, I'm sure you'll get there eventually.  Good luck!

[Kiwi_Roy]

Sorry to keep harping on

Did you check the sensors, coils and injectors using the drawing I posted on the earlier thread?

 

Look closely at the relay sockets 4 & 5, make sure the pins are griping firmly and none are pushed back.

Swap these 2 relays for a different pair say 1 & 2. Position 1 is a good spot to test a relay, it gets a real workout picking up the start solenoid.

The 30 position of 4 & 5 sockets is direct from the battery via a fuse perhaps check from battery + to 30 (with relay out) it should only be a fraction of an Ohm say 0.2

 

The ECU wiring, sensors, coils etc are really a separate part of the bike, it's very robust wiring and as long as it gets 12 Volts to the coil of the ECU relay the bike will run intermittent Voltage at that point it will run like crap because the ECU is constantly getting confused and having to reset. This is why I suggested a (temporary) jumper to the petcock fuse alternately a small lamp there will prove the steady supply of 12 Volts.

[dangerous]

Hi Jen and DD,

 

Just picked up on this thread now.  For what it's worth, I rode this bike about 4 weeks before you purchased it Jen as I too was thinking of buying it.  I only took it for a quick squirt around Mt Wellington streets.  Definitely noticed the miss lower down, but it was no where near as bad as in the video clip.  Also, it went like a shower of shit above 5k, completely opposite to what you describe. 

Hey man, its like this, I think... the bikes got an issue deep down, previous owners have tried to cover this up and have to a point by re tuning to a degree, eg: nuts bolts, screws all show signs of miss handling like the TPS screws munted they are, the tps was out so I reset it as it should like ballance of the TB's the valve clearances were more than twice what they should have been... 

what this has done is actually make the bike worse, but it has pointed more to the 'real' issue.

 

Having ridden the bike between every change I can say the bad mis at 5-6000rpm which would nearly throu you over the frount has gone but it is worse down low.

I agree it does go like a shower of shit, seems quicker than my v11, but this could just seem like it due to the up right position un like mine, and or the more open pipes and lack of air box.

 

Now remembering this bike for some reason has had a new cam and asoated bits replaced, I can only think due to a oil loss, is there more damage that was not picked up on... there is a leaking head gasget, every thing I touch on it is loose ie manifold rubbers, so the head may well not be tight enough.

IMO at this point there is damage to the intake valve, of course I could be talking out a hole in my arse... I duno LOL, FUCKING GUZZI

[dangerous]

Sorry to keep harping on

Did you check the sensors, coils and injectors using the drawing I posted on the earlier thread?

 

Look closely at the relay sockets 4 & 5, make sure the pins are griping firmly and none are pushed back.

Swap these 2 relays for a different pair say 1 & 2. Position 1 is a good spot to test a relay, it gets a real workout picking up the start solenoid.

The 30 position of 4 & 5 sockets is direct from the battery via a fuse perhaps check from battery + to 30 (with relay out) it should only be a fraction of an Ohm say 0.2

 

The ECU wiring, sensors, coils etc are really a separate part of the bike, it's very robust wiring and as long as it gets 12 Volts to the coil of the ECU relay the bike will run intermittent Voltage at that point it will run like crap because the ECU is constantly getting confused and having to reset. This is why I suggested a (temporary) jumper to the petcock fuse alternately a small lamp there will prove the steady supply of 12 Volts.

Shit no man, ya gota harp on to me... sencors are a issue ie: the one on the crossove has been hacked off, the air box one is hanging in the brezze so Id hate to think what the diagnosit would show up.

relays, ecu, coils, leads etc have all been swaped of my V11... if it was ecu or relay it would show issues on both sides, the issue is defnitly just the left pot.

 

this petcock fuse you speak of... what is that?

[docc]

 

this petcock fuse you speak of... what is that?

 

Last fuse in the block (position 8). On the original V11 it was used for the electric fuel petcock. Kiwi_Roy likes to use the point to pick up 12vDc power indication.

[dangerous]

I know what the problem is... Im thinking, 2-3mm gap due to a burnt out exhaust valve, and the inlet not seated to well.. am I right or am I right ;-)

[dangerous]

I know what the problem is... Im thinking, 2-3mm gap due to a burnt out exhaust valve, and the inlet not seated to well.. am I right or am I right ;-)

well dangerous bloody hell how did you know... what I wana know is, HOW? any ideas?