PDoz Posted July 29, 2014 Posted July 29, 2014 I suspect I've killed my nuetral switch at the gearbox, but was hoping for some advice on how to be certain before ordering a replacement /giving the bike to an auto elect. Or do you guys have some alternative explainations for what else I've done..... Like a bad earth somewhere??? Today I thought I'd tackle my false neutrals on upshifting. I started with a new pawl arm spring, but the old one was perfect ( following the various pawl spring threads on here - thanks!) After much head scratching I worked out the eccentric adjuster near the gearshift shaft was set too high ( the one with a 19 mm dome nut covering a screw) , plus I fine tuned the other eccentric adjuster to reduce the range of the gearshift on upward changes. My head hurts, but I'm pretty sure I've fixed the shifting. On reasembling everything I sparked from possitive on the battery to the frame once, this is probably irrelevant but anything that lets the smoke out is bad for electrics.... Once everything was back together, I found the nuetral light VERY erratic. I can JUST get it to light up at the top of the stroke from nuetral to second, but the rear right ?circuit breaker? Under the seat clicks away and the light effectively refuses to stay on. Normally I'd learn to live without a nuetral light, but my clutch switch started playing up on the last ride so I can only start in nuetral at the moment. The gearbox mechanism has exausted my intelectual capacity for the day, so I'm going to sleep on this one before taking the bike to an auto elec with a sheepish look......unless you guys know some magic? For what it's worth, the bike is a late 02 lemans , with most of the 03 upgrades ( although I discovered today no boomerang plate inside the gearbox) . She's got about 10k km on the clock, I think electrics are still standard
stewgnu Posted July 29, 2014 Posted July 29, 2014 Hi up PDoz, The neutral light on my ballabio stopped lighting a couple of months back. I pulled the swich, soaked it, worked the mechanism against the bench for a while and replaced it (twice). Now it, mostly, seems to work fine... Someone suggested that there may have been a bit of crud in there preventing a clean contact. Whether this applies to your prob or not I don't know but it's a quick & simple bit of work. Just out of interest on the false neutrals: Are you getting that happening a lot?
Denis Posted July 29, 2014 Posted July 29, 2014 I've only had my Ballabio for a short time, but I took the advice on this forum about changing the gearbox oil to the Redline 80w. What difference. The box still needs a firm shift, but false neutrals are few and far between now. Well worht the higher cost of the oil change.
PDoz Posted July 29, 2014 Author Posted July 29, 2014 I was getting false neutrals on upshifts between 3/4 and 4/5 if I shifted slowly, but an agressive shift was fine eg in the mountains. Improved with good oil, but not resolved. Looking at the mechanism, the pawl arm thingy wasn't being returned enough after an upshift. Once I worked out how to adjust the screw under that 19 mm dome nut everything made sense. ( the dome nut that is next to the gearshift shaft )
PDoz Posted August 2, 2014 Author Posted August 2, 2014 Problem solved! I assembled it with the cogs 1 notch out f synch ...oops. The good news is, the gearbox is now AMAZING - no false neutrals, and almost as slick as a japanese box - clutch less shifts are a breeze! Anyone having difficulty with a later model gearbox - I'd strongly encourage fine tuning the 2 eccentric adjusters!
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