Timing sensor spacer(s)

[czakky]

While I'm messing with my regulator I decide for the at least 6th time that I'm going to stop this timing sensor from leaking. Don't ask me how I never noticed this.

 

 

One measured .85mm the other deformed one measured 1.22mm. Guzziology is very unclear what the gap should be, because Guzzi is also unclear.

 

Anyone else have two spacers on there timing sensor??

 

 

 

[czakky]

I saw someone else here had posted their V11 had two spacers also... Can't remember who since some posts got deleted.

 

Anyway I've been having some slight to not so slight running problems mainly pinging. I really feel that my fueling is pretty close and am wondering if having (previously) an o-ring between the spacers might have been my culprit....? It's gone now so as soon as my reg. appears I'll answer my own question.

[docc]

Seems like I recall the O-ring fits below the spacer(s).

 

Apparently, it is a black art to determine the spacer thickness. In fact, Luigi does not do this in Mandello. They call in a Specialist. Some burly cat named:

 

Griso

[Camn]

On mine (-02,) there is a groove for the O-ring on the motor side. First the O-ring, then the spacers. I was dumb enought to do it vice versa and the oil leak after some 100 kms was huge... If you want to get it 100% leak proof, I'd suggest to add still a small amount of sealant. Done this way, mine is for the first time 100% dry. Worshop Manual: There are 7 different spacers available in various thicknesses. Such spacers should be selected, that there will be an air gap of 0,7 – 0,9 mm between the sensor and the teeths of the rotating wheel.

I just read that GuzziDiag can tell (but only if the ecu is 15RC) if there are any teeth left "unread" when the motor is running (only when its running). This way it's possible to draw conclusions, if the feeler is too far away.

[czakky]

Camn I'm pretty sure I've put that o-ring every which way but around the cable. I've tried Guzzi's one from the hydraulic fitting shop even one from good old Ace Hardware. Some were better than others none have been leakproof. Now I have no o-ring and a thin smear of Hylomar on every surface. The leak is annoying but, the ignition issues are really bugging me (been dealing with seemingly progressive pinging) my main concern is getting the "gap" right.

 

How do you know if you have the RC ECU?

 

Doubt I do...

[Camn]

A guy who can say "trust me, I know" saw me when the motor was leaking oil from the sensor and his first words were "you have the O-ring in a wrong place". There is no room for it between the feeler itself and the spacer.  The spacer get bent, no sealing surfaces. I'd bet you get good results by using both, first the O-ring to the motor Groove, and then some hylomar to all surfaces. The ecu type (15M or 15RC) is on the ecu sticker iitself.

[Bjorn]

Mine leaked in the past, here is what i did:

 

I found 2 gaskets as well. Measured them both with a screw gauge. I found unlikely results just a you describe (1,22 mm etc.) So compare your results to the available guzzi thicknesses in the parts catalog. I recommend you dont choose the oversize if you want to apply liquid gasket.

 

Degrease everything! also the new shims. I applied a very thin layer of yamabond between the following surfaces:

• engine to shim
• shim 1 to shim 2
• shim 2 to the sensor

THIN is the keyword here!!

 

mine hassnt leaked in over 3500 km.

 

Note that i did not remeasure the gap between timing sensor and wheel. If im not mistaking, you can find a video of how to measure the gap in this topic: http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=15694

[mo-biker]

Instructions are in the workshop manual, you need a micrometer to do it properly, buy one, they are cheap enough and handy to have.

[Tom M]

The gap should be .6 to 1.2mm and can be checked with a feeler gauge if the engine is apart or with a vernier caliper if it's together according to the manual as mo-biker stated.

 

 

[Bjorn]

How did this end czakky?

 

Its always nice to share your findings here.....

[czakky]

Sorry Bjorn, I had put it all back as was without measuring and with no o-ring so i thought.

 

Of course even with good amounts of "hylomar" it leaked like a sieve (sic?). Was going to try one more time to stop this leak to discover an o-ring that had been covered in a whitish sealant and just below the surface of the case. So for the ladt year or so i had been wondering what this groove everyone was talking about in there case for the o-ring. Ordered a couple of OEM rings as i couldnt find one shallow enough to fit this almost non- existent groove. The old ring was hidden with the white sealant..... Plus i'm sure me trying to fit another ring in there deformed all pieces. So when i got it all cleaned up with new ring, guess what?.... No leak! Week later i crash. Bike is in garage awaiting repairs.

 

BTW ignition timing was seemingly unaffected by anything i did. Best thing was retard ignition through guzzidiag. Which caused other issues.

[docc]

You had me real interested in this O-ring business until the crash part.

 

How does leave you and your own attached parts?

[czakky]

Most my parts are attached and where they should be. I-275 has my clutch lever othrwise most parts on the v11 should be accounted for if not working. I'll post a thread later showing the after math of a lock to lock spine frame buck.

[Bjorn]

Ai, sad to hear you crashed. Hope you get it back on the wheels!

[docc]

Ugh - the only thing worse than math: aftermath . . .