how does the synchro rod disconnect?

[stewgnu]

TPS thread says to disconnect at the ball joint.  Had a look, had a prod, cannot figure it out.  Thought I'd best ask t'experts before grabbin the cold chisel+pein hammer.

[czakky]

It should just pop right off, mine does.....easily......too easily

[stewgnu]

It should just pop right off, mine does.....easily......too easily

Damn, well that's what I thunk, but time has taught me to be a gentle egg.

Nothing like looking at a freshly sheared metal component to induce the sobs eh?

Ta for the confirmation CZ, I'll get back on it.

[Bjorn]

just take a regular size flathead screwdriver and place it between the black plastic bit and the steel rotating arm. Then twist, should pop right off.

[Bjorn]

Here is what you are looking for:

 

[stewgnu]

Cheers guys, yes no probs, she popped off easy enough.  (Got a real hesitancy to force stuff these days).

TPS read at .349v though initially... brought it to 150mv and now she run like shit low down.

Next stop manomanaction.  Only prob is my garage is below neighbours flats- ten minutes idling+revving might not endear one... <_>

[Kiwi_Roy]

The TPS only reads 150 mV with the idle screws backed right off (throttle completely closed).
Check it ramps smoothly as you open throttle.

There's nothing magic about the # 150, it just makes sure it's not jambed at the end of travel. Isn't it around 450 at idle (I'm on the road without a PC) as a quick & dirty just set it there to try.
 

[Kiwi_Roy]

I just read 520 mV on a different thread. Here again nothing magic it just gives about the right amount of throttle go idle after setting fully closed 150mV
 

[stewgnu]

Cheers Roy,

Got it balanced now (I think!) and she runs ok.  Air screws are at 1/2 turn each, I could not find a happy idle with the left idle screw set at 521 so I think it's set around 420 now.

Kinda back where I started though as I'm still getting the dreaded 3k spits.

I'm thinking of attempting the 'Micha method' described by Mr Bean :

 

Quote:

 

   I know it goes against the method pinned on this site for how to set the tuning settings but may I suggest you try something completely different? I learned the

   following method from Micha at Moto International.

   Step one - Set your valves to world settings
   Step two - Set your bleed screws to open 1 full turn
   Step three - Synch throttle bodies at just off idle (around 1800 rpm)
   Step four - Set idle to 1100 using left idle screw adjuster only
   Step five - Set TPS to 3.6 degrees (I forget what that translates to in mv..someone here will know)
   Step six - Ensure idle trim is set to zero

   These settings made my bike run like I expect the factory wanted it to run. No more coughing, excessive vibrations at speed, or unstable idle speeds. It honestly

   was like night and day!

 

.... But, first things first, a double check for leaks around the inlet.  Already swapped one boot out as it was badly split- will swap the other one for good luck.