LaGrasta Posted Wednesday at 05:40 PM Posted Wednesday at 05:40 PM The AC results are correct, reaching 80v. (I was stupid enough)
Tomchri Posted Wednesday at 11:02 PM Posted Wednesday at 11:02 PM What Kiwi Roy said oktober 15- 2014. Best way to avoid all the electric traps around is getting an RR connected direct to the battery. Loose the bullet connectors. Have 4 V11 with direct RR to the battery, very happy. It's not a big job. Charging problems has left my head. Cheers Tom. 1
LaGrasta Posted Wednesday at 11:48 PM Posted Wednesday at 11:48 PM Tomchri Thanks for the reminder, let me reconsider this.
gstallons Posted Thursday at 12:51 AM Posted Thursday at 12:51 AM (edited) 1 hour ago, Tomchri said: What Kiwi Roy said oktober 15- 2014. Best way to avoid all the electric traps around is getting an RR connected direct to the battery. Loose the bullet connectors. Have 4 V11 with direct RR to the battery, very happy. It's not a big job. Charging problems has left my head. Cheers Tom. RR ? Lagrasta , the temp gun was to check for heat buildup due to a poor connection. I have a couple of them and a FLIR camera to see any bad connections. If the connector is the problem , you can use crimp connectors to make a permanent connection and when the time comes you can cut them with side cutters. Edited Thursday at 12:52 AM by gstallons more info 1
Tomchri Posted Thursday at 08:37 PM Posted Thursday at 08:37 PM 19 hours ago, gstallons said: RR ? Lagrasta , the temp gun was to check for heat buildup due to a poor connection. I have a couple of them and a FLIR camera to see any bad connections. If the connector is the problem , you can use crimp connectors to make a permanent connection and when the time comes you can cut them with side cutters. Regulator-rectifier . Cheers Tom. 2
gstallons Posted Thursday at 09:37 PM Posted Thursday at 09:37 PM If you have EVER used a thermal imaging camera , you know what heaven is. 2
LaGrasta Posted 11 hours ago Posted 11 hours ago Well it's working, but maybe only a band-aid, not actually corrected. @Tomchri I ran a direct wire from the RR to the battery, took it for a ride and it now has higher voltage at higher rpm, as it should. Thank you. (The RR I bought came with a long power wire just for this reason, but wanting to keep it OEM, I had originally chose not to use it.) The problem now is this all started when my 30a fuse started to melt at the base (not blowing). I replaced it with a CB, but that hasn't helped other than allowing me to push the button rather than replacing a melted fuse. As it is now I'm concerned that there is still a short in that main harness. A friend tells me the additional wire will help add resistance and may in effect make up for the fault. To truly repair this, I believe I'll need to remove the tank and replace this power line. For now, I'll see how this fares. 3
Tomchri Posted 10 hours ago Posted 10 hours ago 1 hour ago, LaGrasta said: Well it's working, but maybe only a band-aid, not actually corrected. @Tomchri I ran a direct wire from the RR to the battery, took it for a ride and it now has higher voltage at higher rpm, as it should. Thank you. (The RR I bought came with a long power wire just for this reason, but wanting to keep it OEM, I had originally chose not to use it.) The problem now is this all started when my 30a fuse started to melt at the base (not blowing). I replaced it with a CB, but that hasn't helped other than allowing me to push the button rather than replacing a melted fuse. As it is now I'm concerned that there is still a short in that main harness. A friend tells me the additional wire will help add resistance and may in effect make up for the fault. To truly repair this, I believe I'll need to remove the tank and replace this power line. For now, I'll see how this fares. Kiwi Roy rules. The electrical system is on holiday, never mind the 30amp. And the update is not really visible. Cheers Tom. Cheers Tom. 2
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