OEM Regulator Rectifier

[LaGrasta]

The AC results are correct, reaching 80v. (I was stupid enough)

[Tomchri]

What Kiwi Roy said oktober 15- 2014.  Best way to avoid all the electric traps around is getting an RR  connected direct to the battery. Loose the bullet connectors. Have 4 V11 with direct RR to the battery, very happy. It's not a big job. Charging problems has left my head.

Cheers Tom.

[LaGrasta]

Tomchri 

Thanks for the reminder, let me reconsider this.

[gstallons]

1 hour ago, Tomchri said:

What Kiwi Roy said oktober 15- 2014.  Best way to avoid all the electric traps around is getting an RR  connected direct to the battery. Loose the bullet connectors. Have 4 V11 with direct RR to the battery, very happy. It's not a big job. Charging problems has left my head.

Cheers Tom.

RR ? 

 Lagrasta , the temp gun was to check for heat buildup due to a poor connection. I have a couple of them and a FLIR camera to see any bad connections.  If the connector is the problem , you can use crimp connectors to make a permanent connection and when the time comes you can cut them with side cutters.

Edited Thursday at 12:52 AM by gstallons
more info

[Tomchri]

19 hours ago, gstallons said:

RR ? 

 Lagrasta , the temp gun was to check for heat buildup due to a poor connection. I have a couple of them and a FLIR camera to see any bad connections.  If the connector is the problem , you can use crimp connectors to make a permanent connection and when the time comes you can cut them with side cutters.

Regulator-rectifier  .

Cheers Tom.

[gstallons]

If you have EVER used a thermal imaging camera , you know what heaven is. 

[LaGrasta]

Well it's working, but maybe only a band-aid, not actually corrected. @Tomchri I ran a direct wire from the RR to the battery, took it for a ride and it now has higher voltage at higher rpm, as it should. Thank you. (The RR I bought came with a long power wire just for this reason, but wanting to keep it OEM, I had originally chose not to use it.)

The problem now is this all started when my 30a fuse started to melt at the base (not blowing). I replaced it with a CB, but that hasn't helped other than allowing me to push the button rather than replacing a melted fuse.

As it is now I'm concerned that there is still a short in that main harness. A friend tells me the additional wire will help add resistance and may in effect make up for the fault.

To truly repair this, I believe I'll need to remove the tank and replace this power line. For now, I'll see how this fares.

[Tomchri]

1 hour ago, LaGrasta said:

Well it's working, but maybe only a band-aid, not actually corrected. @Tomchri I ran a direct wire from the RR to the battery, took it for a ride and it now has higher voltage at higher rpm, as it should. Thank you. (The RR I bought came with a long power wire just for this reason, but wanting to keep it OEM, I had originally chose not to use it.)

The problem now is this all started when my 30a fuse started to melt at the base (not blowing). I replaced it with a CB, but that hasn't helped other than allowing me to push the button rather than replacing a melted fuse.

As it is now I'm concerned that there is still a short in that main harness. A friend tells me the additional wire will help add resistance and may in effect make up for the fault.

To truly repair this, I believe I'll need to remove the tank and replace this power line. For now, I'll see how this fares.

Kiwi Roy rules.  The electrical system is on holiday, never mind the 30amp.  And the update is not really visible.

Cheers Tom.

Cheers Tom.

[gstallons]

13 hours ago, LaGrasta said:

Well it's working, but maybe only a band-aid, not actually corrected. @Tomchri I ran a direct wire from the RR to the battery, took it for a ride and it now has higher voltage at higher rpm, as it should. Thank you. (The RR I bought came with a long power wire just for this reason, but wanting to keep it OEM, I had originally chose not to use it.)

The problem now is this all started when my 30a fuse started to melt at the base (not blowing). I replaced it with a CB, but that hasn't helped other than allowing me to push the button rather than replacing a melted fuse.

As it is now I'm concerned that there is still a short in that main harness. A friend tells me the additional wire will help add resistance and may in effect make up for the fault.

To truly repair this, I believe I'll need to remove the tank and replace this power line. For now, I'll see how this fares.

I am going to say your connection at the fuse holder has been the problem all along. The burnt leg of the fuse was an indicator of a poor connection .  I wish you had mentioned this , it would have saved a lot of thinking. Did you install a CB into the existing wiring harness ? 

Is it made like Docc's CB ?

 Any time you have this burn from a poor connection the wire(s) have the same burn and the connection suffers and the resistance increases (not good) greatly.  I can't wrap my head around this bike and factory regulator running this gauge of wire for the charging . If you were aware of electrical systems it would be like hooking up a gen-set to your house with a cheap 2 wire 110v extension cord.

 Your friend can add resistance if he wants to but you don't need to. Less resistance is what you're after.

Edited 3 hours ago by gstallons

[LaGrasta]

Yes, I swapped to a CB, per Docc.

 

As for less vs more resistance. Less is now what the OEM line has due to the added resistance the new line. Make sense?

 

the OEM red/green wire also powers …fuel relay?

Edited 1 hour ago by LaGrasta