OEM Regulator Rectifier

[moto fugazzi]

I guess what I was trying to say is that I was going to use disconnect the reference wire, and use the black wire (on the charge light side once disconnected) to go to #86 of the relay, and connect #87 to the black reference wire (on the regulator side).

I already have a no load power wire from the battery (fused) that would connect to #30 of the relay. It's from the headlight relay that used to be in the headlight bucket that was removed a while ago. Make sense? I'm assuming the the black wire you call the reference wire is attached to the same SAE connector as the white wire.

 

[Kiwi_Roy]

Yes, I think you have it right

I sent you a PM

[docc]

I like this plan! My Sport needs another relay on top the four I've added. (I just do it to make Hubert nervous )

 

If, per chance, the red-black reference wire in the loom shows no significant voltage drop then this more direct reference system would unnecessary, correct?  (My voltage drop is 0.09 V)

[Kiwi_Roy]

Voltage drop only 0.09 V

Then I'm guessing you have a pair of headlight relays powered directly from the battery, either that or your headlights turned OFF

 

Are you happy with your battery Voltage?

[docc]

Right, headlamps on a separate circuit through a 10 amp circuit breaker with separate OMRON relays, hi and low, and grounded back to the frame.

 

It charges at >14V as low as 2000 rpm.

 

I still don't trust the system to run a 77 watt electric jacket under 4000 rpm . . .

[chamberlin]

Might we make a basic bullet point instructional for this beefing up of the regulator/charging systems? I have a stock wiring system, and my bike came with an Odyssey, so I am now concerned about frying something. I'll go ahead and beef up the grounds as suggested, but I think it would be neat to have a definitive 'checklist' and step by step mod plan for everyone. I often encounter a weak battery, and I regularly trickle the Odyssey on a CETEK higher end charger. So the Rectifier Regulator is actually drawing current with the bike switched off? Although not likely, the RR might be damaged by charging if you don't isolate the battery first? Could a high current battery disconnect switch (kill switch) be engaged when the bike is sitting for long periods or when charging? Could we come up with a definitive reference voltage mod for the RR?

[luhbo]

... It charges at >14V as low as 2000 rpm. ...

 

This is not how it officially should be. Running the system with extra relais and grounds usually brings the regulator voltage down below 14V, to something around 13.8.

In case you have a stabilised or switched power supply unit at hand or in your neighbourhood go and check your volt meter. Those modern cheap ones may not be the most precise ones, especially once the internal 1.5V are fading.

 

Hubert

[docc]

This is true, of course, yet the DE I installed is claimed to set for 14.2 volts.

 

I will have my Triplett meter checked (Good advice, as always! ). I replaced it's internal 9v, but the voltage reading did not change. (My very cheap meter that I carry with me in the Tekno pannier reads 0.12 volts less - maybe it is the more accurate . . . )

[docc]

The specialty electronics store I bought the meter did not have a stabilized power supply and figured sending it to a repair facility would cost about what I paid for the meter (50 USD). 

 

It's stated accuracy for DC voltage is +/- 0.8% which is 0.11 volts at 14.2 vDC. So, assuming my meter has retained its stated accuracy, my charging voltage could be as low as 14.09.

 

I think it is notable, though, that the regulator is set to 14.2 volts and the meter reads the same (at or above 2000 rpm).