motoguzznix Posted November 5, 2014 Posted November 5, 2014 docc prior to touching the head fixing nuts, check the following: the oil feeding connection on the inner side of the head - remove the fuel tank to get there the plug in the head that allows access to the inner stud - just remove the valve cover. There is an o-ring underneath the 10 mm allen plug When the head bolts are not loosened, the o-rings underneath the rocker arm brackets never get leaky.
docc Posted November 5, 2014 Author Posted November 5, 2014 Thanks, motoguzznix! I'll get a look those points and add that to the Tank Off Maintenance Check List.
docc Posted February 8, 2019 Author Posted February 8, 2019 So, I was given the proper O-rings to perform this task. They are simply under a plug beneath the valve cover, no need to disturb the rocker assembly or the head bolts.. I absolutely could not get that 10mm hex-drive plug loose. Out came the Gedore 500 kg machinist's hammer and the impact tool. No budge. I quit before tearing it up. Perhaps with the tank off, I could apply heat and try again . . . 1
docc Posted February 8, 2019 Author Posted February 8, 2019 I mean, they're just plugs, right? Should not have high torque or thread locker?
Chuck Posted February 9, 2019 Posted February 9, 2019 Not as far as I know.. but you never know who's been in there on an old bike.
czakky Posted February 9, 2019 Posted February 9, 2019 On my T3 they were stupid tight too. Sprayed it for a few days with PB blaster and eventually got em... 1
docc Posted February 9, 2019 Author Posted February 9, 2019 Not as far as I know.. but you never know who's been in there on an old bike. Hey! I resemble that remark!
Pressureangle Posted February 9, 2019 Posted February 9, 2019 On mine, that was the o-rings under the inside cyl. stud nut cover, the big allen plug.
Pressureangle Posted February 9, 2019 Posted February 9, 2019 So, I was given the proper O-rings to perform this task. They are simply under a plug beneath the valve cover, no need to disturb the rocker assembly or the head bolts.. I absolutely could not get that 10mm hex-drive plug loose. Out came the Gedore 500 kg machinist's hammer and the impact tool. No budge. I quit before tearing it up. Perhaps with the tank off, I could apply heat and try again . . . Mine were tight enough that I used a 1/2-3/8 adapter and a 24" 1/2 breaker bar. (because that's the one that was at hand) All components Snap-On, and the Allen key was inspected for a good tip. It came right off then with no drama. 1
LowRyter Posted February 9, 2019 Posted February 9, 2019 I big ratchet with a vacuum cleaner tube makes a nice breaker bar. At least it works when I drain the water heater on my travel trailer.
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