Fuel Pump Fuse Problem

[LowRyter]

Appreciate all your support and advice regarding the breather hose with 2001 V11 Sport.  Now I have a real problem that has left me on the side of the road.

I blew the fuel pump fuse (10A).

I was able to replace it with a 15A.  It ran like crap for 5 miles and finally stopped.  At first it wouldn't run at low RPMs, then it would quit and catch, jerking until it stopped altogether.  It would re-start and then quit. It did run long enough to get it on the trailer without pushing it.  

I got it home and replaced the 15A with the proper 10A and it blew again.

This leads me to think of three possibilities:

1.  Fuel Pump is bad
2.  Fuel filter is clogged and the pump is pulling more than 10A.  It gets hot or starves for fuel.
3.  Other wiring or electrical.  

I suppose I'll change out the pump and filter.  And look for chaffed or lose wiring.  I open for suggestions especially anyone that's been around this before.  (Good news. I haven't seen a lot more oil leaking)

[LowRyter]

Appreciate all your support and advice regarding the breather hose with 2001 V11 Sport.  Now I have a real problem that has left me on the side of the road.

I blew the fuel pump fuse (10A).

I was able to replace it with a 15A.  It ran like crap for 5 miles and finally stopped.  At first it wouldn't run at low RPMs, then it would quit and catch, jerking until it stopped altogether.  It would re-start and then quit. It did run long enough to get it on the trailer without pushing it.  

I got it home and replaced the 15A with the proper 10A and it blew again.

This leads me to think of three possibilities:

1.  Fuel Pump is bad
2.  Fuel filter is clogged and the pump is pulling more than 10A.  It gets hot or starves for fuel.
3.  Other wiring or electrical.  

I suppose I'll change out the pump and filter.  And look for chaffed or lose wiring.  I open for suggestions especially anyone that's been around this before.  (Good news. I haven't seen a lot more oil leaking)

[Kiwi_Roy]

I vote for No 2, the fuel filter clogged, but why, you have a plastic tank so it wont rust?

If it were the EV you were riding that would make more sense, tank rust is fairly common.

 

Stopping allows the filter to clear a little when the pump stops.

 

If you unplug the ECU and remove relay No 5 this gives you access to the pump.

Turn the key ON, this should open the petcock which you should be able to verify by a click or by feel

Plug a 10 Amp ammeter between relay 5  from 30 to 87 and the pump will run, from memory it draws 4 Amps but it will draw more like 10 if the discharge is plugged.

The filter can be restored, just pour a bit of fuel in and with your fingers over the holes give it a good shake then let it run out the inlet hole into a can.

[docc]

Does it still have the electric fuel petcock? Those can fail and cause the pump to overwork.

 

If so, check the two wires running under its rubber boot on the left underside of the tank.

[LowRyter]

how do you change out the electric pet cock?

 

I really don't know what I have.  

[Kiwi_Roy]

The electric petcock is a chrome cylindrical solenoid on LH side of tank in the position of a normal petcock.

The wires are known to break where they come out.

You can check the solenoid from under the seat it connects to fuse No 8 if you pull that the solenoid is connected to the terminal closest to the middle. it should read 30 - 35 Ohms to chassis.

 

You can check the fuel pump current draw by pulling relay 5 and placing a current meter between the 30 and 87 sockets, it should measure about 4.5 amps. If there's something blocking the pump it will be 9 or 10 Amps. (I haven't measured it with the petcock closed)

 

The symptoms sound like a blocked fuel filter but you won't get rust with a plastic tank.

.

The pumps also get quite noisy if the discharge is blocked, they have an internal pressure relief. If you pull the return hose off the pressure regulator (RH side of tank) and direct it into a container you should see full pipe flow. 26 gallons per hour according to a document I have.

[LowRyter]

the fuel filter change didn't fix it.  

 

sent you a pm on Wild Guzzi, Roy

[LowRyter]

as mentioned on WG

 

6 amp with the with bike in gear and sidestand switch preventing powering the pump

 

6.4x amp with the bike out of gear and sidestand switch powering pump.  

 

both readings above the 4amp example.  

 

I think it's a manual petcock because it leaked like hell until I was able to finally close it with a couple of more turns. 

 

During the tests with ammeter, I did start the bike and it blew the 10A fuse after running 30 sec.

 

Unless I get more tricks to try, the bike will get picked at a local shop.  Luckily the mechanic has been wrenching on a silver red frame that he can swap parts from bike to bike.  Probably a good idea for electrical troubleshooting.  He just replaced the fuel pump on that one.  He's had the silver one for months and bought the shop manual.  (I hope he's had it for months because of billing issues.)

[LowRyter]

I don't know why my topic was duplicated.

 

Could the moderator merge them ?

[docc]

Will work for beer . . .

[Kiwi_Roy]

I think I sent you the Efiman document it definitely says the pump draws 4-1/2 amps. (I will measure mine this evening)

With the ECU unplugged the pump is the only thing in circuit.

Unplug the ECU again and run the pump for 1/2 hour or so, it won't hurt, the current should be steady. Listen for any variation in noise, current etc

It would be nice if you could get a pressure reading as it shows in the document.

 

Even 6 amps shouldn't cause the fuse to blow although the coils and injectors add a bit to that.

You can monitor the total current by removing the fuse and substituting your ammeter there.

 

Back in your original post you said it was running really rough with a 15 Amp fuse so something must be happening to either drop fuel pressure or short out the ignition.

 

Several V11 Sports I know of have let out the magic smoke from the main loom when the main battery ground worked lose;. The small black wire from the regulator to battery negative gets red hot and melts to other wires, have you ever experienced slow cranking. Something similar can happen if you disconnect the battery, positive first and accidentally touch the ECU with a live wrench.

 

Examine all the wiring associated with pump, coils and injectors.

[LowRyter]

thanks Roy.  I am handing it over to a local mechanic next week who has another red frame in the shop to compare.  I'll pass on this info.  

 

Harper's has a new pump for $113.  I suppose it's too much to hope for a remove & replace fix. 

[LowRyter]

Will work for beer . . .

you're a scholar and a gentleman  

[docc]

 

Will work for beer . . .

you're a scholar and a gentleman  

 

And a bass-man. Who will also work for beer!

[Kiwi_Roy]

I took the time this evening to measure the pump current

 

With the petcock closed 4.3 Amps

 

With the petcock Open 3.95 Amps

 

The current at Fuse 2 while cranking (pump Plus Ignition & Injectors) 4.3 to 4.5 Amps

 

The current at a steady idle 4 Amps

 

So your fuse 2 is drawing far too much, my guess is the pumps blocked in somehow or faulty since you measured over 6 Amps.

 

Note: I have an electric petcock so it could be sucking open.

 

I suggest you verify the flow at all points

to the pump, pump to filter, filter to regulator, regulator back to tank.

 

Here's a sketch I did for someone else, note the pump measured 1.3 Ohms 

Point 1 refers to the 12 Volts from the safety circuit that must be present to excite the ECU, not a problem in your case.