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Posted

I picked it up from break-in service today and rode home on Pacific Coast Highway. The exhaust valves were too tight and it needed valve cover gaskets. No other issues.  :D 

 

Since I need to flush the clutch and brake fluids, it seemed the ideal time to start the dark  :ninja: ening.  I got black Rizoma fluid tanks to replace the clear plastic tanks on the bars.

 

Sadly, wrenching will have to wait, because I have to leave again tomorrow for work. However, it was urgent to remove the orange reflectors from the front wheel. They were blocking my view of those lovely 4-piston calipers. 

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Posted

IMG_2277.jpg

 

Here it is on the floor at the dealer... where we first met  :wub:

 

I'll take some pictures with a good camera when I get home. 

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Posted

Scura by Hedionda Lagoon

 

Here's the only other good picture I have with me. I will also figure out how to post full-size pics.

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Posted

Maybe some smoked signal lenses from the Buell parts bin?

 

Ever on into the darkness  . . .

Posted

Does yours come with the factory bubbling paint? Pretty common for the Scura.

 

No sign of bubbling paint so far. It's perfect really - like a time-machine dropped it off. I would guess that the bubbling shows up after several heating and cooling cycles - which my bike has not had many of (yet).

 

Let's assume that MG used a very slow-acting hardening agent in the paint... therefore it has finally set after 12 years of non-use and I won't have any engine-paint problems.   :not:

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Posted

Maybe some smoked signal lenses from the Buell parts bin?

 

Ever on into the darkness  . . .

 

I like that idea a lot. I was thinking about smaller, aftermarket indicators. However, I like the shape of the stock ones pretty well too. Do you happen to have a convenient link to a site where I could order said smoked signal lenses?  I've also seen people spray lenses with a light coat of plasti-dip to get the same effect.

 

IMG_2317.jpg

Posted

Here's another gratuitous photo that I took before getting the tools out.

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Posted

The Rizoma front brake fluid canister and bracket went on easily. It looks better (and Scura-er) than the big piss-cup. I got an identical set for the clutch. As you probably all know (and I just learned minutes ago) it's nearly impossible to reach the clutch bleeder. I think I will wait till I remove the rear wheel for new tires (should be in the next few weeks).

 

 photo IMG_2322.jpg

BTW - I'm also seeking advice about mounting mirrors in the thread "Bar End Mirrors

Posted

Tyres: Those are BT020's? They'll be 12 years old now & weren't the greatest things when new.

Bike handles nicer on a 170 rear rather than stock 180.

 

There was an issue w rear wheel bearing spacers, knocking out bearings in v short order. My spacer was too short - I think it distorted when I torqued up axle, (it's made from an old cornflakes box). I made one out of heavier tube, to correct length & it's been fine since. MG specify torque for rear axle 120Nm (housing side). I don't understand why they spec side to measure at, can only think there must be some difference to result due to friction thru the assembly, etc. Anyhow I never took any notice & my spacer collapsed, since I put in a new spacer I still take no notice, just nip it up good & tight & haven't had a problem. 

 

I ordered some Pirelli Angel GT tires (decided to try the 170 rear as you recommended and as referenced in some other threads). Also checked date codes on my tires - 2001 :o. I've got almost 1,000 cautious (mostly) miles on them now - can't wait to hit some favorite roads with tires I can trust. 

 

Re spacer:

I did not see a Corn Flakes logo on mine. How did you determine that the spacer was too short? What is the correct length?

Posted

...How did you determine that the spacer was too short? What is the correct length?

 

 

Rear wheel bearing broke. This happened immediately after rear wheel had been out. I replaced the broken bearing & it lasted about a mile or so before new one went ....

 

I measured wheel spacer shorter than distance between bearing housings: so with bearing outer hard against the housing, inner/outer races were being misaligned when torquing axle. I don't recall measurements, but I will look if I have it written somewhere, or it will be in a thread here somewhere for sure if you have time to search. Whatever, you can measure distance between bearing housings in your hub to ascertain correct size.

I discovered bearings designated C3 have slightly larger internal clearances.

I also was advised to tap in bearings using a drift that bears on both inner & outer races equally. I had always driven bearings home using drift against outer race only.

 

Guzzi spec a torque for axle measured at the drive side. I don't know why this is & can only think that drag somewhere in assembly might give different torque readings each side. However, since I did the spacer I had no problems & don't measure torque, just nip it up tight.

Cheers, KB :sun:

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