Brand-new Scura

[docc]

Here, I thought all the V11 cylinder fins have some kind of "finish." Mine look painted the same as the engine cases.

 

If they were bare (aluminum alloy?), wouldn't they get all chalky and  fuzzy quite quickly?

[gstallons]

Yes. Docc you are correct .

[Scud]

Got the transmission back together today. The elimination of all crinkle paint has turned out to be a much more time-consuming task than expected. Hopefully the transmission leak is also cured (time will tell). I just had to push it close to the engine for a comparison - and to imagine how good it's going to look when the engine is done.

 

[PJPR01]

That looks really good!  Powder coated or painted again?

[Scud]

It's the same paint as I've been using (VHT engine case - satin black). Every single part (bearings, seals, etc.) has to get stripped out for powdercoating. I don't think that's practical for engine and transmission cases - or at least that's several steps further than I want to go.

 

But I've got a few goodies awaiting pickup at the powder-coater.  All this time on the cases (and several cans of stripper, primer, and paint at about $15/can) makes me appreciate what a good deal powdercoating is.

 

I must say, though, that stripping these parts, then masking and painting them, has given me a real appreciation for the design work that goes into creating them. Especially the transmission cases - so intricate and precise. It's really amazing.

 

As a bonus, I finally understand how the transmission works. It was cool to be able to slide the cogs around (with the selector arms removed) and see how they engaged various gears. Mechanically, it's not too bad of a job, but I left all the gears and shafts on the intermediate plate. I was a bit apprehensive, not having taken a transmission apart before. But I will defer celebration until I actually ride it again.

[JesterGrin_1]

  I would just like to say two things. Wonderful hard work and I would suggest to either heat cycle the painted parts before hand or when assembled on the running drive line. It will make a huge difference on the longevity of the paint.

 

 Also since it was not stated that when using a stripper on porous materials a good strong cleaning of the parts is highly recommended or even using  a good solution of hot water and dawn dish washing soap. Or to say it another way that stripper can work its way into the porous aluminum and when the bike is assembled and goes through the heat cycle any residue that soaked into the aluminum casting will create small craters in the paint when it gasses out. Just a heads up.   

 

 If this was mentioned previously I apologize.

 

On a further note I feel you made the right decision by not going with a crinkle paint as it is hard to make look right as well as adhesion.

[Scud]

Thanks - I've been using lots of water on parts that I can (but no soap). But I was afraid to get the transmission cases wet, with their bearings and gears attached. So I cleaned with towels soaked in Simple Green. I used isopropyl alcohol as my final wipe-down before the paint. So hopefully those two have removed or neutralized any remaining stripper. I'll be sure to clean and rinse the engine case thoroughly, since that is one of the more visible elements.

 

...and no apologies needed. One of the great things about documenting a project is all the tips I get along the way.

 

How would you heat cycle it? Just use a heat gun, perhaps on low setting? Or just run it briefly and let it cool a few times before going out for a long ride?

[JesterGrin_1]

Thanks - I've been using lots of water on parts that I can (but no soap). But I was afraid to get the transmission cases wet, with their bearings and gears attached. So I cleaned with towels soaked in Simple Green. I used isopropyl alcohol as my final wipe-down before the paint. So hopefully those two have removed or neutralized any remaining stripper. I'll be sure to clean and rinse the engine case thoroughly, since that is one of the more visible elements.

 

...and no apologies needed. One of the great things about documenting a project is all the tips I get along the way.

 

How would you heat cycle it? Just use a heat gun, perhaps on low setting? Or just run it briefly and let it cool a few times before going out for a long ride?

 

 It used to say on the can at what temp to set the paint. Sorry as I do not remember off the top of my head. But yes a heat gun on low will work fine. Or as mentioned especially for the case is to bring the temp up a bit while running and then let it cool. A couple of times should work fine.

 

 If you have ever painted headers it is the same idea as you will smell the paint. Smells good to me as an accomplishment if all goes well.

 

 I was going to suggest another cleaner but it is much harsher and would require allot more water. But if you have dirty or greasy parts it is hard to beat without going to a heavy duty cleaner such as Kerosene. And that is Castrol Super Clean. If you use this I would highly recommend a well ventilated area and gloves or it will peel skin lol. 

 

 

  On a side note after replying to this thread last night or early this morning I started to go through the thread and I have to say that you have done some nice things to the New Scura.

 

  I will be especially interested in the suspension aspect and some little things you added such as the clutch and brake Rezoma Reservoirs.

[Chuck]

 

And that is Castrol Super Clean

When I was first rehabbing the Lario, I asked the Kid what to use to clean the drivetrain with. In another lifetime he was a painter and knows his stuff. When he told me "Superclean" I said, Seriously?? "Yep, you can paint over it."

I'm a believer. I cleaned with Superclean.. careful, it's caustic.. rinsed with water, and painted. (!!)

Cleanup/paint starts on page 4 Painting on page 6.

http://wildguzzi.com/forum/index.php?topic=58695.90

[Tom M]

Hey Scud,

A halogen work lamp a couple feet away from the cases seemed to cure my paint pretty well when I repainted my engine.  I did it that way because my basement wasn't very warm when I did the job.  I bet you could cure the paint by just leaving the parts out in the sun for a day or so out there in SoCal.

[JesterGrin_1]

 

 

And that is Castrol Super Clean

When I was first rehabbing the Lario, I asked the Kid what to use to clean the drivetrain with. In another lifetime he was a painter and knows his stuff. When he told me "Superclean" I said, Seriously?? "Yep, you can paint over it."

I'm a believer. I cleaned with Superclean.. careful, it's caustic.. rinsed with water, and painted. (!!)

Cleanup/paint starts on page 4 Painting on page 6.

http://wildguzzi.com/forum/index.php?topic=58695.90

 

 Yep that is why I pointed out those things about Castrol Super Clean. And the name fits. .

[JesterGrin_1]

 I would like to add just a thought on a semi simple touch and that would be to file the ribs on the engine case or any other parts you like smooth and or flat after paint. Or heck smooth them and paint them. Your call. To me it just gives more of a finished look that shows pride.

[PJPR01]

Looks really great I have to say...lots of loving care going into making this look even better than when it came out of the factory!  Superb job!

[Scud]

Thanks guys - as it happens, I just arrived in Houston, TX.  One day of work - and back home tomorrow night. 

 

I've been removing the obvious excess flash from the castings - some of them were very sharp and could cut into hoses or fingers. But I have not given any attention to simple seams or imperfections from the molds. I just want to ride it... 

[PJPR01]

Well...could have had you over to visit the Scura here!!  If your plans bring you to town again, let me know in advance...can make a little Guzzi rendezvous.